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Diesel oils like Shell Rotella T all have heavy additive packs to reduce wear at extreme pressure and hard, prolonged usage and they work superbly in motorcycle engines and I used it for years, with never any sign of problems. My ingrained drain intervals have been and still are 3,000 miles and with anything but synthetic, it's very economical to do so.:grin:

I am using Amsoil in my Motorcycles and scooter now just because :wink2:

My Cages all go to the Ford Dealers now because they charge less than what I can do it for. Our 3 new F150's only cost between 45 and 55 dollars for a complete service with tire rotation:grin:

Amsoil alone is $11 per quart. K&N filters are about $10 or so which I guess isn't bad because I change the oil normally once a year on each bike, averaging around 10,000 miles total on all 3 rides.:wink2:

One of my good friends in California had used just normal 10-30W automotive Valvoline in his 1989 Electra Glide (And in his brand new one) and never a single problem other than noisy hydraulic lifters @ 89,000 miles but he drained @ 3,000 miles or so, with a new filter.

Sam:nerd:
 

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Diesel oils like Shell Rotella T all have heavy additive packs to reduce wear at extreme pressure and hard, prolonged usage and they work superbly in motorcycle engines and I used it for years, with never any sign of problems. My ingrained drain intervals have been and still are 3,000 miles and with anything but synthetic, it's very economical to do so.:grin:

I am using Amsoil in my Motorcycles and scooter now just because :wink2:

My Cages all go to the Ford Dealers now because they charge less than what I can do it for. Our 3 new F150's only cost between 45 and 55 dollars for a complete service with tire rotation:grin:

Amsoil alone is $11 per quart. K&N filters are about $10 or so which I guess isn't bad because I change the oil normally once a year on each bike, averaging around 10,000 miles total on all 3 rides.:wink2:

One of my good friends in California had used just normal 10-30W automotive Valvoline in his 1989 Electra Glide (And in his brand new one) and never a single problem other than noisy hydraulic lifters @ 89,000 miles but he drained @ 3,000 miles or so, with a new filter.

Sam:nerd:
Well, I need a strong additive package and a wet clutch not to slip, so it sounds like I really need to try it. Is the Amsoil you're now going with meant for motorcycles?
 

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Rotella makes great oil. I've personally seen problems with Amsoil but I also think it had to do with lack of use versus actual use of that oil. In the one and only case I saw the plates were nearly glued together with the Amsoil but it had just sat for about a year before trying to get it to work. New plates and oil(Mobil 1) and back in business. It was enough for me to stop using Amsoil though. Just a personal preference thing now. I like Rotella, Redline and Mobil 1 and go strictly by the API/JASO codes and the owners manual. Well except Amsoil. It's just plain out for me now in wet clutch bikes. Actually wish I'd never seen that one case but seeing did it in for me.
 

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Rotella makes great oil. I've personally seen problems with Amsoil but I also think it had to do with lack of use versus actual use of that oil. In the one and only case I saw the plates were nearly glued together with the Amsoil but it had just sat for about a year before trying to get it to work. New plates and oil(Mobil 1) and back in business. It was enough for me to stop using Amsoil though. Just a personal preference thing now. I like Rotella, Redline and Mobil 1 and go strictly by the API/JASO codes and the owners manual. Well except Amsoil. It's just plain out for me now in wet clutch bikes. Actually wish I'd never seen that one case but seeing did it in for me.
For someone who has never used it, I like Amsoil. Good marketing, lots of people I met like it. They have their in store version for sale now which actually isn't the high-end oil which everyone talks about. It's made with a cheaper base stock. And for this oil, I only have the opinion of others based on cars and truck, not motorcycles.

Knowing that mine never really sits, means maybe it'd work out for me. the fact that the wet clutch can get glued together is actually incredibly disturbing. I guess it wouldn't have to be the cause of wet clutch slip like synthetic motorcycle oil for my ride though! Not if it can glue it together!

Yikes! I'm sure the oil or some additives become temporarily become part of the wet clutch as it took 3 weeks for the slip in my wet clutch to go away entirely when I switched off of Castrol's fully synthetic 10w-40 for motorcycles. The oil change gave an immediate improvement, but added improvement over 3 weeks had me constantly relearning where my slip zone was - pretty annoying.
 

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I believe all of them, and higher than even an old motorcycle out of the 80's oil report, which I saw.

I'll track down the reports and post them up. Might be good for me. I haven't looked for a while.
Okay. I have found one of my Blackstone lab reports on my new motorcycle. It only shows two tests on there, but I'm not sure how to share a pdf with the forum. It's in picture format, so I can't copy and paste the words.

What's weird though is they say the "metals are shaping up" when they hadn't really changed, but silver had exploded up in numbers.

Anybody know how to share a PDF to the forum? It's too big for me to screen shot it, and if I did, it'd get small and fuzzy, judging by this forum having the same architecture as Toyota Nation and the Nissan Frontier club I'm in use the same forum management tool.
 

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Okay. I have found one of my Blackstone lab reports on my new motorcycle. It only shows two tests on there, but I'm not sure how to share a pdf with the forum. It's in picture format, so I can't copy and paste the words.

What's weird though is they say the "metals are shaping up" when they hadn't really changed, but silver had exploded up in numbers.

Anybody know how to share a PDF to the forum? It's too big for me to screen shot it, and if I did, it'd get small and fuzzy, judging by this forum having the same architecture as Toyota Nation and the Nissan Frontier club I'm in use the same forum management tool.
Attaching the PDF worked. I see Silver actually came way down, now that I realize that the left common is newer, but other metals are still up, so I remain concerned. I really ought to get another sent in to see if things are better 8k miles later (engine has only kept sounding worse).
 

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Ooops...
...
I get logged out a lot as I consider what to say, I guess I refreshed the wrong page and managed to put the following down on a different thread:

Now only if I can find it available...

Right now Amazon doesn't have it available in a 55 gallon drum...

(link allowed after 10th post, link for a good joke anyway, though I must say my wife and I did the math and 130 oil changes is a big commitment in purchasing a 55 gallon drum, but it's only $3.45 a quart!)

Teasing.

Found a gallon of it here:
walmart . com /ip/ROTELLA-550019907-Diesel-Motor-Oil-1-gal-10W-40-Bottle/44944526
They'll email me when it's in stock.

I saw on the package that T5 Diesel oil there is $31 and at Napa it's only $26...but at Napaonline, I see no mention of Diesel. Does it have to be T5 Diesel to be meant for Diesel? I hear car motor oil can be a really bad idea in a motorcycle, though my 89 Yamaha XT600 couldn't care less. Wet clutch and all.
www . napaonline . com/en/p/SCA550019907
The guys said to be sure to check the manual for oil it should be and what API rating it should have. I know that Diesel engine designed oil does not meet the standards (other than viscosity) that the institute desires for motorcycles, but I'm thinking of trying it anyway. With all the people who have said it does well, even though the better additive package should cause issues, if it doesn't, then it's simply better protection for the engine, I say. Maybe it'll actually keep viscosity. You can see on the oil I ran longer that it kept more viscosity. When I next sent them a sample with about 1,200 miles as suggested all I remember is them explaining for viscosity, that my 10w-40 essentially became 5w-30, and that it wasn't due to fuel contamination.
 

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Okay. I have found one of my Blackstone lab reports on my new motorcycle. It only shows two tests on there, but I'm not sure how to share a pdf with the forum. It's in picture format, so I can't copy and paste the words.

What's weird though is they say the "metals are shaping up" when they hadn't really changed, but silver had exploded up in numbers.

Anybody know how to share a PDF to the forum? It's too big for me to screen shot it, and if I did, it'd get small and fuzzy, judging by this forum having the same architecture as Toyota Nation and the Nissan Frontier club I'm in use the same forum management tool.
I can see it just fine.
 

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The discovery process of JASO MA and MA2 for Shella Rotella Diesel T4-T6 oils

I'm attempting to make it write for accidentally caring on about this topic on another thread. Here's a quote from that other thread.

This Tractor Supply ad for it says diesel in the description but I don't see a thing on the bottle. Unlike motorcycle oil, I think engine oil works for both types of engines. The diesel specific if you can find it may have more or less additives. I've used this very one in my Case bucket dozer. Not seen a single problem so far and that almost 10 years now. Was used when I got it anyway so I just went by the API codes which this one met. A later model might not though I suppose. Got a owners manual? If so look at the API/JASO requirement and if this one meets it use it. Motorcycle or car, diesel or gas. The JASO code says it all.
Right. The Yamaha's owners manual states that it should meet JASO requirements and that the oil cannot be energy conserving II - I'm assuming that wouldn't be good for the wet clutch.

Thank you for the awesome replies!

Interesting, I haven't been able to find the manual online (it's late, I don't want to go down to the garage) but according to a trusted forum this Yamaha Requires JASO-MA oil and that Rotella Diesel oil does fit that. I'll investigate further.

The WR250R forums seem to have almost got it right Shell's Rotella t5 is Jaso MA2, but is it MA? ...now I have to learn what THAT means, lol.

Shell is specifically stating that this line of Shell Rotella Diesel T4-T6 products are approved and designed for motorcycles and wet clutches and that they meet the JASO MA and MA2 requirements.

The Yamaha manual also states that Diesel oils with the C5 rating cannot be used...to not use any oil which is finer than stated. This oil fits and does not exceed those requirements as well.
 

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I'm attempting to make it write for accidentally caring on about this topic on another thread. Here's a quote from that other thread.



Right. The Yamaha's owners manual states that it should meet JASO requirements and that the oil cannot be energy conserving II - I'm assuming that wouldn't be good for the wet clutch.

Thank you for the awesome replies!

Interesting, I haven't been able to find the manual online (it's late, I don't want to go down to the garage) but according to a trusted forum this Yamaha Requires JASO-MA oil and that Rotella Diesel oil does fit that. I'll investigate further.

The WR250R forums seem to have almost got it right Shell's Rotella t5 is Jaso MA2, but is it MA? ...now I have to learn what THAT means, lol.

Shell is specifically stating that this line of Shell Rotella Diesel T4-T6 products are approved and designed for motorcycles and wet clutches and that they meet the JASO MA and MA2 requirements.

The Yamaha manual also states that Diesel oils with the C5 rating cannot be used...to not use any oil which is finer than stated. This oil fits and does not exceed those requirements as well.
As long as that Rotella oil only has JASO MA then you are fine. MB has the friction modifiers. That's according to this link. So I'd stay away if it has MA and MB just to be on the safe side.

I don't see a MA2 but it's probably just better than MA due to stricter requirements over MA. Just like API codes just keep going higher and better. There is a symbol they put on the bottles if it has the friction modifiers. I look for it on other brands so I know what it looks like, then look at the bottle I'm about to purchase to make sure it isn't on that bottle. I'd bet MA2 if it was on the bottle you have or want would be fine. Meaning it meets all requirements for the MA line. MA2 is just one better.

I know they think they are helping with all these codes but I think they are making it so very confusing. Thank the EPA for that though.
 
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