[DoBro]

This is my other bike. A 2000 Kawasaki Vulcan VN800a

I changed my oil and filter a couple days ago and took a ride totaling 67 miles round trip. Did not see no oil anywhere. I checked to be sure the filter had no leak and the oil plug was dry. I was in my bike shed today and noticed a wet spot under it. I looked closer and there is oil all around the lower cylinder areas and on the top of the transmission area. I took a few images but some did not come out to good but will add those to see along with an image of the bike. I think you can tell it is wet looking.

Before I tear into it to research this farther I was wondering if any one had a clue or experience with this situation before.

I used 10W40 when I changed the oil. I might of had 20W50 in before I changed it but not sure. The bike specs said 10W40 or 20W50. Would going to a lower grade have caused this?

(I was going to delete that large image but could not find a way to do so. I did resize the other after I noticed I had failed to do so before I dragged it in to post. Sorry. :sad: )

 

[WintrSol]

Before you get too worked up, make sure the crankcase vent hose is connected properly, and not split or blocked.

 

[DoBro]

Just rechecked and find it is not oil. It's GAS! I closed the petcock. Hopefully I get morning chores done early today to see if I can find out where it's coming from. Planned on riding to my sisters tomorrow but beginning to look like I may have to postpone the trip. Could it be a stuck float needle? I use Seafoam in every tank.

HMMM! Smells like gas. Feels like oil. Found a puddle and it looks green like anti freeze! Looked farther up under the tank over the cylinders and I see rusty area around a pipe. Looks like I got some work to do this afternoon evening!

 

[amal]

just check the fuel pipe first

 

[DoBro]

I got the tank raised, breather flange(plastic part)off and exposed the carb. Looks like it has been there for a while but has gotten worse. Added some images.

I am thinking it may be a diaphragm. Checked the screws on bottom where a diaphragm is and none were loose.

 

[DoBro]

I wonder if it is the petcock? On PR it flows. On ,Reserve and On, it drips. About 3 drips per second. That's 180 drips per minute. That's 259,000 drips in a 24 hour period! That could possibly empty a tank!
Tried to add a video of it dripping but guess that's not allowed.

 

[Unkle Krusty]

It should not drip in the reserve or on position, or the prime position. But the position could indicate if it is the petcock that is dripping, or if it is the fuel line near where it bungs on to the tube. A petcock kit should be available. Yank the fuel line off and check for any splits.

UK

 

[DoBro]

I have the fuel line off the tank and a small piece of fuel line put on the tank. I am letting it drip over night to see how much it adds to a fuel can. ON drips. PR flows like a faucet. RES drips like when it is in the ON position.

 

[WintrSol]

PR stands for PRime, the setting to refill empty carbs. ON and RES should not flow at all without vacuum from a running engine. You need a repair kit for the petcock, and maybe a new fuel line.

 

[DoBro]

That's about what my final prognosis is also. Still haven't gotten back to the Intruder yet.
I now have 3 bikes I am working on plus was offered a life changing position with a company today in the electrical field as a supervisor/inspector for 20% of the company take.
Needless to say I have my hands full!

 

[highplainsthumper]

Ethanol in today's gas is nasty. Replaced a totally swollen fuel line on a 5 year old lawn mower, wasn't getting any fuel because the fuel line innards were so swollen no fuel was flowing. Ethanol is corrosive and will affect rubber parts in your fuel system.


If you got one of those vacuum pull-off style petcocks, I put a new one on my 1987 LS650 Savage not long ago, needed to be replaced several years later. Was going to replace it with a completely mechanical one off a Yamaha Raptor ATV, but ended up giving it to the new owner when I got rid of the bike.


Now have to do fuel systems work on a 2001 Kawasaki ZG1200 Voyager XII, never ending story but 4 carbs.


Hope you get your fuel systems problem sorted out.

 

[DoBro]

I, also considered going to a mechanical petcock but I guess I have that curiosity to know if I can rebuild it or not. Ya know? I just have to see if I can. If it fails I will go mechanical petcock and turn the fuel off after a ride and at stops where it is shut down.

 

[Unkle Krusty]

I, also considered going to a mechanical petcock but I guess I have that curiosity to know if I can rebuild it or not. Ya know? I just have to see if I can. If it fails I will go mechanical petcock and turn the fuel off after a ride and at stops where it is shut down.

This can work if you know when you are getting low on fuel. That is if the mechanical unit does not have a reserve position. If it has a reserve position I would probably switch.
My 4 cylinder Yami requires both taps on, no reserve, but the low fuel sensor works and a red light comes on.
I also make a note of how far each bike will go before I need reserve. That was a good plan but the OD counter quit on Yami.
Once upon a time we used two taps each feeding two carbs. We would use just one tap until that side of the tank ran low, then switch to the other side.

UK

 

[DoBro]

Got a kit that had the little spring included and rebuilt the petcock. No more drip!. Issue has been resolved. Where I thought it was an oil leak turned out to be fuel going into the oil and over flowed. Changed the oil and filter and everything is good to go except the weather is starting to get cold here. Next month it is retired for the winter. I tried to make a video of how to rebuild it but it did note turn out so good. To blurry!Sorry guys/gals. No vid or images this time.
Thank you for all the help and suggestions.

 

[WintrSol]

Cold? In Florida? :coffeescreen: What do you consider cold?

I plan to ride tomorrow, and the high should be 45F. I'm hoping the snow melts before I need to go.

Of course, it will be the last for the season; I just plan to fill the tank and push it into the garage.

 

[DoBro]

LOL It gets cold here in Florida. Not like up north tho. I've lived and rode in Niagara Falls in the fall. There is a difference in cold here and cold there. Down here it's a damp cold but up there it is a dry cold.
For new riders out there that have not rode in late fall and winter seasons yet. Windchill factors in when riding a motorcycle.
Here's a link I found but I think it's for N. Calif. ( Motorcycle Riding Windchill Charts - NorCalPGR )

Here in Florida when it's hot weather you will want to go for a ride to get cooled off but 90 and above it could feel like it's 10 degrees hotter! You might catch a ride thru some shade due to trees overhanging the road and feel cooler sometimes tho. I've hit pockets of air in places in the country where the temp drops all of a sudden and would feel like I should have had a jacket on when it was so hot here it was hard to breath!

Wintertime riding down here early in the morning can be pretty cold tho! I live in the northern part of Florida.
I've rode before the sun came up when it was 27 degrees. (Truck refused to start and had to get to work.) I reached my destination (after 52 miles!) and could not open my fingers to take them off the grips and had to bang on a door for someone to open the door and let me in! (Still could not get my hands open enough to grab a doorknob!) But, I enjoyed the experience and lesson learned. (I rode a Yamaha Virago 750 (799cc) shaft drive with a cut down Honda Goldwing fairing with the windshield also cut down. I did the modifications myself and it looked good on it.)

So far, I have not seen snow that fell and stuck to the ground. Have hit black ice on the road before tho and that can be a hairy experience!

I keep my bikes in a shed I built when not riding. I also fill the tanks and add Seafoam. In the winter once a week I will crank them up and let them get to operating temps. Before I take them out I will change oil and filter and clean and re-oil the chain on the Vulcan. Check all fluids and pre-inspect before taking them out.

WintrSol. Hope you have a good ride and enjoy. Look forward to your help if or when I need it. Stay warm this winter season. I read where it might be a ice age cold up north.

 

[WintrSol]

In the winter once a week I will crank them up and let them get to operating temps.

All good, except this. You can't get the oil up to operating temperature unless you ride it several miles, more than five.
But, you have only a short time doing this, so the additives in the oil will probably handle all the contaminants, until you change it. Watch out for the 'peanut butter' that forms in the oil, and sticks places the normal oil flow doesn't reach. I found this the hard way, riding three miles to work in 40F temps; I had to access the clutch for another reason, and had to do a full clean up of that nasty stuff.

 

[Unkle Krusty]

Wot Wintr said. You need to be on an Island like mine. It is about 9 miles to the village and 9 back. That is enough for things to warm up enough. Especially one long steep hill.

UK

 

[DoBro]

All good, except this. You can't get the oil up to operating temperature unless you ride it several miles, more than five.
But, you have only a short time doing this, so the additives in the oil will probably handle all the contaminants, until you change it. Watch out for the 'peanut butter' that forms in the oil, and sticks places the normal oil flow doesn't reach. I found this the hard way, riding three miles to work in 40F temps; I had to access the clutch for another reason, and had to do a full clean up of that nasty stuff.

Actually, I do ride it in the winter when the days are warmer than 45 here. But good to know about the peanut butter! Thanks.

 

[DoBro]

Wot Wintr said. You need to be on an Island like mine. It is about 9 miles to the village and 9 back. That is enough for things to warm up enough. Especially one long steep hill.

UK

if I had the funds I would buy an island here and use a cigarette boat to get to shore and back!