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I have a 1980 XS850 triple which I picked up at a good price. While the oil looks ok on appearance - not dark at all, but since it's been sitting for several years, I really wanted to change the oil.

My problem is the drain plug is frozen. I've tried penetrating oil to no avail. What other options do I have to get that thing removed before giving up and taking it to a shop?

Thanks in advance.
 

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I have a 1980 XS850 triple which I picked up at a good price. While the oil looks ok on appearance - not dark at all, but since it's been sitting for several years, I really wanted to change the oil.



My problem is the drain plug is frozen. I've tried penetrating oil to no avail. What other options do I have to get that thing removed before giving up and taking it to a shop?



Thanks in advance.


If you truly can’t get it out you can get an oil extraction kit and suck it out through the dipstick hole on most bikes.
But first try some leverage, maybe an impact gun used gently, and perhaps some heat.


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In Kansas, all things are possible and probable:grin::grin::grin:

Sam:nerd:
 

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Nightfly
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In this situation patience can be your friend. I've found force applied steadily and firmly while slowly increasing pressure will yield results. If the head of the bolt is hollow it won't take a lot of pressure to collapse the head.

I'm not in favor of oil extraction kits as you never get all the crude out that can build up. But it can be one of the last resorts you may have to turn too. As Sam said, be sure your are turning the plug in the proper direction. Heat can help as well but you would want to heat the hole, not the plug...
 

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American Legion Rider
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...
I'm not in favor of oil extraction kits as you never get all the crude out that can build up. But it can be one of the last resorts you may have to turn too. As Sam said, be sure your are turning the plug in the proper direction. Heat can help as well but you would want to heat the hole, not the plug...
Last resort but certainly a way to get old oil out and be able to continue using the bike is the extraction kit.

I'm in the camp for making sure you are trying to remove the plug versus tighten it. It is so darned easy to do it the wrong way when looking basically upside-down. So make certain you are going counter-clockwise.

And use a six sided socket or box-end.

As far as heat goes, it's easier to cool the plug with an ice cube after heating the oil and pan by riding the bike for 20 minutes or more. You want warm oil throughly mixed to drain anyway. Put the ice on, tap the plug, then try removing it. Repeat until it breaks loose. Be patient. But good luck. We need that just as much sometimes.:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
 

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The steel bolt can seize on the aluminium alloy casing, that houses the oil filter. It does not seize in the engine casings. The bolt is about 2 1/2 inches long. The heat suggestions above, and the six sided spanner are the best approach, IMO. Heat around the head of the bolt. Sometimes a sharp whack with a BFH works. A replacement bolt with a bigger head is available.

Plan B is to destroy the bolt and casing. Replace with new bits.

The above is assuming your unit is the same as my XS1100.

UK
 

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Ace Tuner
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All of the above are good suggestions.
You could also try a hand held impact driver and hammer. The bike would need to be on its side so you can get a good solid Whack with the hammer.
Impact drivers are inexpensive and when used with a 6 point socket they are 'usually' a little easier on the head of the bolt than a hand tool might be.
 

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Ace Tuner
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Last resort but certainly a way to get old oil out and be able to continue using the bike is the extraction kit.

I'm in the camp for making sure you are trying to remove the plug versus tighten it. It is so darned easy to do it the wrong way when looking basically upside-down. So make certain you are going counter-clockwise.

And use a six sided socket or box-end.

As far as heat goes, it's easier to cool the plug with an ice cube after heating the oil and pan by riding the bike for 20 minutes or more. You want warm oil throughly mixed to drain anyway. Put the ice on, tap the plug, then try removing it. Repeat until it breaks loose. Be patient. But good luck. We need that just as much sometimes.:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
Ice and engine heat. Hum.
That's a good idea :smile: Do that too....
 

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The main problem is the head of the bolt. It is 13 mm I think. The threaded part of the bolt, is at the top end. The part that seizes is at the bottom end. Just a hole in the canister, for the bolt with a sealing washer. Forgot what type. The steel bolt likes to marry itself to the canister containing the oil filter. There is an O ring between the canister and the engine casings.

I only had one of them seize in this manner. The others came off with now problems.

UK
 

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I would add anther vote for a 6 sided socket.
I personally I like to by a high quality socket from an auto supply store or snap on ect, to use with a breaker bar.
Or a good quality preferably six sided ring spanner.
The cheep ones from the hardware store are ok for regular stuff but when the bolt or stud is frozen especially if it has started to round. Get a top quality socket. You can by them one at a time. It’s worth the 5 or 10 bucks to avoid the frustration. Of dealing with stuff which is rounded.

If it does get to rounded. I’d try a cold chisel, at an angle before I get the drill bits out.

I like the ice idea. Reminds me of an old trick which is often frowned upon.
Giving it a quick shot from a Co2 extinguisher.
 

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If all else fails, use a poor mans tool, a strong pair of vice grips.

You could also take a DREMEL or any hand held grinder and cut the head of the offending bolt off in about 10 seconds and then order a new bolt.

No biggie:grin:

Sam
 

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I like the ice idea. Reminds me of an old trick which is often frowned upon.
Giving it a quick shot from a Co2 extinguisher.
That's a great idea, or if you don't have a co2 extinguisher just get a chunk of dry ice and try that. The extreme heat and cold might just break it loose.
 

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If all else fails, use a poor mans tool, a strong pair of vice grips.

You could also take a DREMEL or any hand held grinder and cut the head of the offending bolt off in about 10 seconds and then order a new bolt.

No biggie:grin:

Sam
This is what I did. The problem is the angle available for the cutting disc. The canister gets damaged, so you need a new one of those. Once the canister, and the head of the bolt, had been removed on mine, the bolt unthreaded with my fingers.
With some bikes the pipes are in the way.

UK
 

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Was the oil drain plug stuck or was the oil filter stuck? Two very different things.
 

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Was the oil drain plug stuck or was the oil filter stuck? Two very different things.
The bolt gets stuck. It is 2 1/2 inches long. It goes thru the center of the canister, and holds the filter and canister in place. It is not a typical drain plug. The filter can not get stuck on. It is not a screw on filter. It sits inside a canister.

However, one of my msgs above says, it depends if his system is the same as my XS1100, and I think it is.

I just checked, and I suggest others do the same. Go to google and type XS850 1980 oil canister bolt, and be informed.

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The OP originally stated that the 'drain plug' was stuck----not the same as the long bolt that goes through the oil filter housing:smiley_mornincoffee:smiley_mornincoffee:smiley_mornincoffee Did he disappear ???????????????????????:surprise:

Sam:nerd:
 
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