I'll chime in here, as someone with a background in high performance and oem automotive engines, a lot has to do with the engine design and amount of compression it has.
On a car engine, your bearings are just soft babbit inserts, they rely on a film of pressurized oil to prevent metal to metal contact. The more compression you have, the more force on the rod bearings and crank bearings and the more likely a dry start will contribute some added wear. Modern oils have additives for lubricity and cling. It allows a certain amount of oil to remain that should never drain down within a reasonable amount of time. If the oil is old, then those additives may well be depleted and those effects may be weaker.
Now with most bike engines, we have roller bearings, there is no free play in the bearing to rod, crank to block contact areas, these areas are taken up with roller bearings or ball bearings. This means that there is no room for a dry bearing to 'slap' or 'knock' and do damage due to a hammering affect. Many bikes also have a dry sump or full pressure lube system which pumps oil the instance the engine is turned over, and bike engines turn over a lot faster than car engines do.
Now the areas of concern on a bike engine would be places like your hydraulic lifters, or overhead cam followers if they're not roller type.
I would say that filling the filter to some degree to soak the filter element inside is a good idea, as is adding some oil but I don't think its as big a deal on start up as on most car engines.
I regularly see modern bike engines surpassing the 100k mark these days, I've even seen a handful over 200k and still going strong.
Most engines will let you know if they need the filter filled or the pressure to be cranked up before starting simply by the sound of them when they start up. If it sounds noisy or loose when you start it after an oil change, then maybe taking a few second to crank it over with the ignition disconnected or simply turned off may be a good idea. Cranking the engine with the ignition off will build oil pressure without the load or impact of combustion.
Personally, I put enough oil in the filter to wet the paper good, and maybe as much as won't spill putting it on the bike and then I'll crank it a bit without the choke on restart before applying the choke or turning on the ignition. I don't think I've ever heard a difference between a regular cold start or a fresh oil change start on any of my bikes.