I posted this (more or less) on the New Member Introduction board already. So here it is again more specific to the current issue (not the only issue) i'm working on.
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My name is Thomas.
I'm in my early 30's with light mechanical experience but a capacity for learning and figuring (and sometimes breaking but hopefully fixing too).
I'm in the NY/NJ area.
I currently own, but haven't been riding, a 1983 Honda CB650. It has been customized by the previous owner so it has a swapped tank, a new seat and is generally blacked out. No side covers, etc. All gauges and indicators are removed except for the speedometer so there's some dead end wiring.
The bike was having some charging issues when i got it home. A mechanic had checked it before purchase and showed proper charging voltage on his multimeter (static and revved etc), but when i started riding it, the battery would be drained after an hour or so. I originally thought i was just stalling a lot and asking the battery to crank more than i was giving it a chance to charge. Bought a new sealed battery and got better at NOT stalling but still ended up with a dead battery after 45-60 minutes. I had picked up a pocket jumper and that would get me started but i'd need it EVERY time i got stuck. 5 jumps to get home and almost ran out of juice in the jumper.
My carbs were leaky and clearly in need of attention so i decided to do that rebuild first as my multimeter wasn't with me to test the charging system. Got through it successfully (i felt) and reinstalled the carbs (so much fun...).
I went ahead and blew the main fuse because i RECONNECTED MY BATTERY BACKWARDS ?♂. When i got the new fuses I wheeled it out and it fired right up. Sounded good to me, nice and smooth (except for the pang-pang sound that i think is a bad hydraulic lifter (next project after figuring out charging system)). It was raining so i did not ride that day and i needed a new screw to hold my choke cable to the mount as that was stripped. Got all that together and 2 days later suited up to go for my first ride in weeks. Put on my new grips and wheeled her out...turned the key...lights...no start...
What I have done or do know:
Thank you.
___
My name is Thomas.
I'm in my early 30's with light mechanical experience but a capacity for learning and figuring (and sometimes breaking but hopefully fixing too).
I'm in the NY/NJ area.
I currently own, but haven't been riding, a 1983 Honda CB650. It has been customized by the previous owner so it has a swapped tank, a new seat and is generally blacked out. No side covers, etc. All gauges and indicators are removed except for the speedometer so there's some dead end wiring.
The bike was having some charging issues when i got it home. A mechanic had checked it before purchase and showed proper charging voltage on his multimeter (static and revved etc), but when i started riding it, the battery would be drained after an hour or so. I originally thought i was just stalling a lot and asking the battery to crank more than i was giving it a chance to charge. Bought a new sealed battery and got better at NOT stalling but still ended up with a dead battery after 45-60 minutes. I had picked up a pocket jumper and that would get me started but i'd need it EVERY time i got stuck. 5 jumps to get home and almost ran out of juice in the jumper.
My carbs were leaky and clearly in need of attention so i decided to do that rebuild first as my multimeter wasn't with me to test the charging system. Got through it successfully (i felt) and reinstalled the carbs (so much fun...).
I went ahead and blew the main fuse because i RECONNECTED MY BATTERY BACKWARDS ?♂. When i got the new fuses I wheeled it out and it fired right up. Sounded good to me, nice and smooth (except for the pang-pang sound that i think is a bad hydraulic lifter (next project after figuring out charging system)). It was raining so i did not ride that day and i needed a new screw to hold my choke cable to the mount as that was stripped. Got all that together and 2 days later suited up to go for my first ride in weeks. Put on my new grips and wheeled her out...turned the key...lights...no start...
What I have done or do know:
- Tested the rectifier -- good (i think) -- tested continuity and resistance as described in Clymer's Manual and online. Looked ok but happy to retest if anyone has specific directions.
- Tested starter relay -- good -- no "click" from starter button, "click" when jumped direct 12v -- continuity on "click" is good -- i have a new relay landing at my house today because i tested it incorrectly at first and thought it was dead. Retested the next day getting the coil terminals right and it's fine. So i'll have a spare relay or i'll get my $ back. Thoughts? is it likely i'll need it eventually anyways?
- Tested battery -- good -- a little drained from trouble shooting so voltage was hanging around 12v dropping a touch while pushing the starter button a few times (i'll put it on the tender and check voltage again).
- Test wiring -- good -- nothing jumped out at me in terms of connections and continuity. I would like ideas on where specifically to check, but i think i've hit the major parts of the initial starter circuit...i could easily be wrong.
- Bad starter BUTTON (i went with Revzilla's grip install (5:25) method and rubbing alcohol went all over the handlebar switch internals -- shorted?? i've tested and can't see a problem so need advice there. What should the switch be showing?
- Headlights go out on pressing starter button (supposed to happen)
- Continuity between starter relay coil wires (starter button (Yellow/Red) and Clutch Switch (Green/Red)) show good when starter button pressed.
- Continuity between (2) starter button wires (Yellow/Red and Black) shows good when pressed.
- What kind of voltage readings should i get and where should i get them to test the starter button? I'll double check but i think i tested voltage at the starter relay (Red/Yellow to engine ground) and got 0v. I feel like power is not making it to the relay from the button but don't know how to trace the problem.
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(red boxes indicate devices that are still on the bike)
- Bad or improperly connected safety switch -- seems the clutch diode (blue bubble on wiring diagram? rectifier?) is removed and spliced, connection seems ok though. Could this be a problem for the overall electrical system? -- will track other safety devices this week. Could use advice on using multimeter for this.
- Bad ground -- ugh, i can't imagine trying to trace each ground...easy way to determine?
Thank you.