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I love night riding best, especially on summer nights, when the cool air feels and smells so nice. The streets are empty, and you can see down the road a ways and pick your path. The engine thumps and the echoes of your machine subtly change as you lean over and accelerate from the street onto the boulevard. What a difference from a few hours before, as sullen traffic crawled jealously along the same pavement, hiding the road, covering it in sound and stink, and the press of metal shells.

But this is a different world than you are describing. My playground is lit up so well by metal halide lighting that some out-of-towners don't realize they are driving with their lights off. I ride with mine on, and I'll even flash the headlamp to alert a car with out of town plates to their mistake. I won't pester another Chicagoan though. They say that is one of the random acts that can trigger the shooting initiates are required to perform in becoming full members.
 

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Some cows will stand still while you scratch behind their ears, or the top of their head. The next one will charge you from 50 paces. Best to play it safe and exit. While boars will just charge. Bulls will do whatever they want. Goats do butt, so do rams. It's a jungle out there. We have deer and pheasants on the Island, and at least one peacock.

UK
 

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However loose cattle don't move quick
Yep, open ranged cattle brings yet another dynamic
to your riding pleasure. I don't have to worry about
that locally but just a few miles further west and
open range is common. And up north and west at
the Wichita Mountain Wildlife Refuge you can deal
with open range Buffalo(Bison). That's cattle with an
attitude.;) ;) ;)
 

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An issue of Iron Butt Magazine had an article on vision and riding in low light conditions.
It also covered the effects of adding layers of shields, visors and even prescription glasses.
Per the Iron Butt article each layer of clear shields and lenses can reduce light by 9 to 11%.
If you look through a windshield, have a face shield and wear glasses you could be blocking 30% of the available light.
If you use a Pinlock shield it could block another 10%!

When I bought my Shoei Neotec it came with a Pinlock visor lens and I was surprised to see that it said “daytime use only, never use the Pinlock lens at night!”
Why? It’s a clear shield. The Pinlock is a removeable visor that can be used with a face shield, adds another layer to prevent the shield from fogging up in cold and rain.
The Pinlock info backs this up by saying that using a Pinlock shield with a clear shield can reduce the available light to slightly less than 80%.
I have tried using the Pinlock at night and it did block enough light that I took it off.

The bottom line is – try to reduce the number of layers that you are looking through at night even if the layers are clear.
 

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An issue of Iron Butt Magazine had an article on vision and riding in low light conditions.
It also covered the effects of adding layers of shields, visors and even prescription glasses.
Per the Iron Butt article each layer of clear shields and lenses can reduce light by 9 to 11%.
If you look through a windshield, have a face shield and wear glasses you could be blocking 30% of the available light.
If you use a Pinlock shield it could block another 10%!

When I bought my Shoei Neotec it came with a Pinlock visor lens and I was surprised to see that it said “daytime use only, never use the Pinlock lens at night!”
Why? It’s a clear shield. The Pinlock is a removeable visor that can be used with a face shield, adds another layer to prevent the shield from fogging up in cold and rain.
The Pinlock info backs this up by saying that using a Pinlock shield with a clear shield can reduce the available light to slightly less than 80%.
I have tried using the Pinlock at night and it did block enough light that I took it off.

The bottom line is – try to reduce the number of layers that you are looking through at night even if the layers are clear.
Thanks for that info. I was looking to upgrade my helmet to a Pinlock but up north we tend to ride in the dark early and late in the season. I will have to try some anti fog sprays and think hard before I make the investments in a Pinlock. Its all the little things that can add up to a big thing you don't think of.
 

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I use a pinlock shield to prevent fogging , it works great for that but it does cut down on the light, the difference is noticeable. I was thinking about taking it out once the warmer weather makes fogging less of a problem to improve my night vision, I'll try it soon.
 

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Thanks, @Rollin', for that very useful info. I put a Pinlock layer on my helmet a few months ago and have never taken it off. I never would have thought that clear plastic can block light, but now that you mention it of course it only makes sense. So I just grabbed a flashlight and shone it on my hand through my Pinlock-equipped shield, and then directly on my hand. There really is a noticeable difference.

The Pinlock layer itself is tricky to install correctly. Popping it off and putting it back on every time I go from day to night riding would be a huge hassle, and might ruin it. For $20 I'll probably just go to Cycle Gear and pick up another face shield and just swap shields as needed.
 

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Thanks, @Rollin', for that very useful info. I put a Pinlock layer on my helmet a few months ago and have never taken it off. I never would have thought that clear plastic can block light, but now that you mention it of course it only makes sense. So I just grabbed a flashlight and shone it on my hand through my Pinlock-equipped shield, and then directly on my hand. There really is a noticeable difference.

The Pinlock layer itself is tricky to install correctly. Popping it off and putting it back on every time I go from day to night riding would be a huge hassle, and might ruin it. For $20 I'll probably just go to Cycle Gear and pick up another face shield and just swap shields as needed.
$20 dollars for an extra sheild must be nice, for my bell qualifier sheild up here the best price I can find is $62.99 plus 13% tax I only paid like $150 for the whole helmet. And the helmet sucks....
 

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$20 dollars for an extra sheild must be nice, for my bell qualifier sheild up here the best price I can find is $62.99 plus 13% tax I only paid like $150 for the whole helmet. And the helmet sucks....
Mine's an HJC CL-17. Cycle gear has the supposedly real HJC shield (not an aftermarket POS) for $22.49. I was surprised at how little a replacement shield for this helmet costs.
 

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The bottom line is – try to reduce the number of layers that you are looking through at night even if the layers are clear.
Very good point. Add to that the natural clouding or darkening of your own eyes lens(cataracts) and for the over 60 age group you could have significant light reduction for sure.
 

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Mine's an HJC CL-17. Cycle gear has the supposedly real HJC shield (not an aftermarket POS) for $22.49. I was surprised at how little a replacement shield for this helmet costs.
How is that lid? I might look into one. Is the shield good for clarity? Don't want to hijack this thread but.... it's better to change a shield often, scratches can cause oncoming lights to have a starburst effect.
Brule
 

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How is that lid? I might look into one. Is the shield good for clarity? Don't want to hijack this thread but.... it's better to change a shield often, scratches can cause oncoming lights to have a starburst effect.
Brule
So as to not hijack this thread any more than we already have, I'll answer your question in the Gear->Helmets forum.
 

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Yamaha FZ yamaha WR250 X Honda Shadow 500cc
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Hee hee Napster....
But seriously does anyone have any good drop in LED bulbs that would work with a small headlight like the one on an S83/Intruder 1400?
I know lol
Wish i knew something about the headlamp
Get one o them sons of anarchy shroud lamps ,that'd look ill on your intruder
 

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I forgot to mention that I did try this, on the SS1000 I did last weekend I removed the inner pinlock layer from my shield. I discovered that the inner shield was actually somewhat cloudy and crazed, and the difference once I cleaned and polished the outer one was remarkable. I felt like my eyes were 20 years younger again, I could see better and much further in the dark, and without those weird double reflections of lights from the multiple layers.
Fogging when going slow or stopped was a bit worse without the pinlock, it does work to avoid that, but moving I had no problems, even in 3 or 4 hours of rain in the dark on the return trip it stayed clear. I had carried that inner shield along on the ride in case I had to put it back, that most likely won't be necessary. The only caveat was that it was warm out, in the 30s up to the 50s, I'll have to see next winter how it works without it below freezing weather.


I use a pinlock shield to prevent fogging , it works great for that but it does cut down on the light, the difference is noticeable. I was thinking about taking it out once the warmer weather makes fogging less of a problem to improve my night vision, I'll try it soon.
 

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I ride with mine cracked open just a little all the time, never completely close. If I have to slow down or stop it gets opened all the way. I rarely have a fog issue. Might get that freezing feeling but once back up to speed a mostly closed I'm fine again. That's when I was commuting. Now retired I don't go out in the cold.
 

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I stopped riding/ driving at night when my night vision went to pot. Now that I can see again, I may just have to go for a ride, not now, but on a nice warm summer evening.

Maybe ride a few miles to listen to some local boys play their old time rock and roll music.
 

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Anything that restricts your vision is bad but darkness just makes it worse.
Nighttime temps tend to be lower so there is a higher chance of the visor fogging up, when that happens I think there are two issues.
Why is the visor fogging up? Moisture building up in the helmet and if you wear glasses that can add to the problem. There have been more than a few times I opened my visor to clear it and the problem was my glasses were fogged over.
There are “fixes”, Pinlock visors that help prevent helmet shield fogging and things that can be done to glasses but that doesn’t fix the real problem. The real problem is there’s not enough airflow through the helmet. Not enough airflow causes two problems, moisture is not removed and you might not be getting enough fresh air. Again on more than a few long rides I have started to feel tired and opening the visor to get more air corrected that problem.
When its cold or raining opening the shield may not be something you want to do and that’s when the correct windshield height is important. A windshield that is too high can prevent airflow through the helmet vents and no airflow across the face shield can make it hard to keep the shield clear when it’s raining.
On my Victory Kingpin I cut 4” off the windshield and it was perfect for me, good airflow through the vents and across the visor. On the Vison and CTX I cut 2” off. Air is good.
I thought the windshield on my CTX was perfect until my first ride in the rain on it and that was 300 miles of steady rain at night. I had to standup a little on the pegs to clear the shield but I knew what needed to be changed.

I also think that first detent on the helmet shield is very important. When opened to the first detent does it let in to much air in cold or wet weather? Is the detent strong enough to keep the shield open at higher speeds? I liked my Shoei Neotec, it had a strong visor detent but the first detent let in to much air in cold/wet weather. When I bought a new helmet I bought a Shoei GT Air-2 because Shoei added another detent that opens the shield just enough to keep the shield clear and that’s one of the main reasons I picked that helmet.
Large helmet vents and good airflow can help a lot.
 
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