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Ok so I got a bike for doing some work for a police officer on her sons car. It is a 2012 Kawasaki Ninja 250. I've wanted a bike for a while and the 250 is perfect to learn better on especially because I got it for only 500 worth of parts.

First off if there is anyone in Vegas as well please let me know!!

So her son dropped it and she didn't want him to have it anymore after that.

He broke the key when it fell so I had to buy a new ignition switch for it. I just got it in the mail, hooked it up and tried to start it. No luck. It's trying to but doesn't start. So I figure the starter itself is good. I took after the airbox to find out it was filled with what looks like gas and maybe some oil in it. I removed the airbox (it was a PAIN) then did a little research and seen that if the airbox filled then I need to drain the carbs too. So I did. Still no luck.

What typically can get damaged when it's dropped. I know a lot is protected by the frame but from impact anything could happen to my knowledge.

I need to buy a new bracket for the rear brake set. So if you know where I can get just the bracket for the low please post the link to it for me please.

Also the handle bar bent a little bit and the throttle doesn't snap back I have to open and close it manually.

Someone please help me out. First bike and I want to learn so I can do things myself.

Thank you all!!
Armani
 

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Sometimes when bikes fall over on the right side, the grip on the throttle gets pushed up against the stop too tightly causing friction to stop it from operating correctly. That would be the first thing to check.

The first thing to check with the engine is to make sure it's getting fuel. Is the fuel valve in the On or Run position?
 

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Sometimes when bikes fall over on the right side, the grip on the throttle gets pushed up against the stop too tightly causing friction to stop it from operating correctly. That would be the first thing to check.

The first thing to check with the engine is to make sure it's getting fuel. Is the fuel valve in the On or Run position?
I tried to get the stop off when a bunch of different things but can't get the thing off smh.

My bike has two positions on the petcock on and pri. I've tried both! :pensive:
 

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The battery sounds weak. Check the voltage and charge at about 1 amp until it shows normal voltage.

If you are positive there is fuel getting to the carbs, (I'm assuming that you are using brand new fuel and not whatever slop was left in the tank) check for spark at the plugs.

It's a process of elimination. You need the proper air/fuel mixture, compression, a properly timed spark, and proper valve timing. If you have all those things, it will run.
 

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Battery. Make sure it has a good charge. If it's sat for a few weeks, it may well be too weak. You can put it on a charger or see if a local parts place will charge it for you. There's always buying a new one, but try the cheapest tricks first.

Spark plugs. Make sure they are clean and the wires are fit on snug.

I only know the redneck way to check for spark. Take out a plug. Put the wire on it. Touch the end of the plug against something metal on the bike, and have someone turn the key. You'll see the spark if it's making it. You'll also get a good shock if you hold too close to the plug or the boot of the wire. Be careful.

Fuel. Good clean fuel.

You can try some starting fluid in the carb to get it running. Not too much or too often, though. Don't try to keep it running on the stuff. It strips lubricant and just isn't made to run an engine.

Also try blocking the entire opening to the barrel of the carb with your hand while turning the key. That may help draw fuel into it.
 

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Starting

Lets consider the basics. This is a fairly new bike and it used to run. What happened. It fell over.
It might have got fuel in the crank case: Check the oil level. If it is way over full, drain it and put in new oil.
It needs gas in the carburetor: Remove the fuel line and turn the lever to prime. Fuel should come out.
It needs fuel that will burn: Smell the fuel. If it is orange and smells rotten, drain it all out and put in some fresh stuff.
It needs a spark: Remove the plug, connect the wyre from the coil, ground the plug and check for spark.
If you have all that, and the battery has 12.75 volts in it, the bike will run.
You need to go through the check list and not cheat with starter fluid.
That stuff is for 60 year old thrashed tractors, and still not a good idea.
Buy a new spark plug, just because. Maybe put in fresh gas, just because.
Make sure the throttle is opening and closing before you try and run the bike.
If you do not understand any of the above, get help. I can not make it run from here.
It might be a fuel injected engine, and use a fuel pump. If so, report back. I will not be looking it up.

Unkle Crusty*
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The battery sounds weak. Check the voltage and charge at about 1 amp until it shows normal voltage.

If you are positive there is fuel getting to the carbs, (I'm assuming that you are using brand new fuel and not whatever slop was left in the tank) check for spark at the plugs.

It's a process of elimination. You need the proper air/fuel mixture, compression, a properly timed spark, and proper valve timing. If you have all those things, it will run.
The battery was weak from me constantly trying to start it. If that part works anything like a car and I'm sure it does. The engine was turning so it can't be a battery problem so I decided to check my spark plugs...boom no spark. I went to go buy some new ones and guess what....no spark. I checked the ohms on the coils and the are flat lined. I just ordered some new ones and they will be here Tuesday so hopefully that works!! *fingers crossed* till then I got the battery just sitting on a trickle charger in the meantime so when they get here I'm 100% ready
 

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Battery. Make sure it has a good charge. If it's sat for a few weeks, it may well be too weak. You can put it on a charger or see if a local parts place will charge it for you. There's always buying a new one, but try the cheapest tricks first.

Spark plugs. Make sure they are clean and the wires are fit on snug.

I only know the redneck way to check for spark. Take out a plug. Put the wire on it. Touch the end of the plug against something metal on the bike, and have someone turn the key. You'll see the spark if it's making it. You'll also get a good shock if you hold too close to the plug or the boot of the wire. Be careful.

Fuel. Good clean fuel.

You can try some starting fluid in the carb to get it running. Not too much or too often, though. Don't try to keep it running on the stuff. It strips lubricant and just isn't made to run an engine.

Also try blocking the entire opening to the barrel of the carb with your hand while turning the key. That may help draw fuel into it.
We think alike lol. I put it on the charger till I can buy an upgraded one when I get paid I changed the spark plugs today I did it against the frame of the bike with a screwdriver in it and got no spark so I ordered some new coils. They will be here Tuesday. Also put some new ngk plugs in it today too. Going to flush the fuel again tomorrow and clean the carb out.
 

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Lets consider the basics. This is a fairly new bike and it used to run. What happened. It fell over.
It might have got fuel in the crank case: Check the oil level. If it is way over full, drain it and put in new oil.
It needs gas in the carburetor: Remove the fuel line and turn the lever to prime. Fuel should come out.
It needs fuel that will burn: Smell the fuel. If it is orange and smells rotten, drain it all out and put in some fresh stuff.
It needs a spark: Remove the plug, connect the wyre from the coil, ground the plug and check for spark.
If you have all that, and the battery has 12.75 volts in it, the bike will run.
You need to go through the check list and not cheat with starter fluid.
That stuff is for 60 year old thrashed tractors, and still not a good idea.
Buy a new spark plug, just because. Maybe put in fresh gas, just because.
Make sure the throttle is opening and closing before you try and run the bike.
If you do not understand any of the above, get help. I can not make it run from here.
It might be a fuel injected engine, and use a fuel pump. If so, report back. I will not be looking it up.

Unkle Crusty*
Very nice detailed reply. Thank you. Yes it only has 2000 miles on it. If fuel got in the crankcase how do you get it out? I was going to do a oil change tomorrow too. I changed the plugs today. I put the battery on the trickle charger. Ordered coils because the ohm reader detected they were flat lined. I got the bike about 3 weeks ago I think and the day I got it since the guy broke the key I had to drill out the small hole in the fuel door to get to the hidden screw and take that off so I could put gas. It is smart to put anything inside the tank to clean it out just in case I got stuff in the bottom like some type of solvent like cleaning agent? Or should I just rinse it out? How should I clean the inside of the tank out?
 

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Something l noticed...and this probably isn't the problem just it never hurts to speak up...from your video it looks like you are trying to start the bike while it is on the kickstand. On my bike, there is a switch that doesn't allow you to start the bike while the kickstand is down; additionally, even if you are in neutral you have to pull the clutch in. These are safety guards that most new bikes now have. It would surprise me if yours didn't. Just a thought.
 

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Armani... I wish I had checked this forum yesterday so as to help you out. Everything everyone has posted is good common sense repair techniques. But I have a question or 2 for ya.

1) Where did you get the replacement ignition key switch from? Here's why I ask: All modern Kawi sport bikes are equipped with a "hotwire" proof ignition switch. It is designed so that if you have the wiring diagram, you can't hotwire the bike by cutting & twisting wires. Herein lies the problem. Many aftermarket ignition switches made for the Ninjas don't work. They lack a 100 ohm resister on one (the gray) wire. Without that resister, the CDI will not produce spark.

If you still have the old ignition key switch, try this... Hook it up to the bike and use a flat blade screw driver to turn it on. If the key is broke off in the ignition switch, it would have broke off near the top. The flat blade may just turn the switch. If it does, and you have spark, then the replacement switch is useless unless you solder a 100 ohm resister inline with the gray wire.

I seriously doubt the ignition coils are bad and I fear you spent money for parts you don't need.

I have had more than 20 EMGO replacement switches I bought that don't work unless I do this mod. And the ones made in China are no exception. If you got your switch from ebay, well, it might be because the guy you got it from couldn't get it to work on his 250 ninja either.

Please investigate what I have told you before you end up buying all sorts of parts and pulling your hair out!!

Jack
 

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Something l noticed...and this probably isn't the problem just it never hurts to speak up...from your video it looks like you are trying to start the bike while it is on the kickstand. On my bike, there is a switch that doesn't allow you to start the bike while the kickstand is down; additionally, even if you are in neutral you have to pull the clutch in. These are safety guards that most new bikes now have. It would surprise me if yours didn't. Just a thought.
Yeah I tried both with the stand up and clutch pulled.
 

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Armani... I wish I had checked this forum yesterday so as to help you out. Everything everyone has posted is good common sense repair techniques. But I have a question or 2 for ya.

1) Where did you get the replacement ignition key switch from? Here's why I ask: All modern Kawi sport bikes are equipped with a "hotwire" proof ignition switch. It is designed so that if you have the wiring diagram, you can't hotwire the bike by cutting & twisting wires. Herein lies the problem. Many aftermarket ignition switches made for the Ninjas don't work. They lack a 100 ohm resister on one (the gray) wire. Without that resister, the CDI will not produce spark.

If you still have the old ignition key switch, try this... Hook it up to the bike and use a flat blade screw driver to turn it on. If the key is broke off in the ignition switch, it would have broke off near the top. The flat blade may just turn the switch. If it does, and you have spark, then the replacement switch is useless unless you solder a 100 ohm resister inline with the gray wire.

I seriously doubt the ignition coils are bad and I fear you spent money for parts you don't need.

I have had more than 20 EMGO replacement switches I bought that don't work unless I do this mod. And the ones made in China are no exception. If you got your switch from ebay, well, it might be because the guy you got it from couldn't get it to work on his 250 ninja either.

Please investigate what I have told you before you end up buying all sorts of parts and pulling your hair out!!

Jack
I ordered it on eBay. I just got the coils in and replaced those and still no spark. So could I have a bad Cdi? The key for the old one is long gone after it broke he pulled it out and threw it away like a jackass.
 

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So could I have a bad Cdi?
I'm thinking OneEyedJack had the solution above.

All modern Kawi sport bikes are equipped with a "hotwire" proof ignition switch. It is designed so that if you have the wiring diagram, you can't hotwire the bike by cutting & twisting wires. Herein lies the problem. Many aftermarket ignition switches made for the Ninjas don't work. They lack a 100 ohm resister on one (the gray) wire. Without that resister, the CDI will not produce spark.
 

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I think at this point I'd solder that 100ohm resister inline the gray wire like Jack suggests. What would you have to lose? Chances are very good Jack is right and being the switch is from eBay and not a dealer most likely that's it. Worse that could happen is it still wouldn't allow spark, correct? But I'm betting he's right and it will work. If it still doesn't then just hang tight and wait for his next suggestion. Just remember he does have his job and helps when he can. Patience will be off here.
 

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Armani.... You can try the resister on the ebay ignition switch, or you can take the original switch to a locksmith and have a key made for it. A CDI will be mucho expensive and I would never buy one on ebay. I seriously doubt the cdi is at fault.
 

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Advice

It pays to listen to the guys who currently work on bikes. Ignore them at your peril. I know the basics, but when it comes to spark, I date back to magnetos. I did not know about the ignition switch.

Unkle Crusty*
 

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The battery was weak from me constantly trying to start it. If that part works anything like a car and I'm sure it does. The engine was turning so it can't be a battery problem so I decided to check my spark plugs...boom no spark. I went to go buy some new ones and guess what....no spark. I checked the ohms on the coils and the are flat lined. I just ordered some new ones and they will be here Tuesday so hopefully that works!! *fingers crossed* till then I got the battery just sitting on a trickle charger in the meantime so when they get here I'm 100% ready
"The engine was turning so it cannot be a battery problem" Well, it does defy logic,but I have seen bikes that would crank and not start until the battery was completely charged due to the strength of the spark alone. I also have seen poor performance on one bike that you would have sworn was due to carb problems that was actually due to a somewhat loose battery ground wire. A strong battery with clean connections and fresh clean gasoline can do wonders for starting problems.

Simply flushing fresh gasoline into the carb bowls from a fresh tank of gas by loosening the drain screws can perform a minor miracle on a non-starting bike.

It is easy enough to get rid of somewhat stale gas by mixing it into your auto or truck tank when mixed with at least a half tank of gas
 
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