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The rusty thing is your flywheel, you need to take that off and it is a challenge to do that even occasionally if you don't buy or make a puller.
It carries the magnets that spin around past the coils behind it, to make electricity.
 

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Flywheel is usually on a taper shaft and fitted with a keyway to stop it from moving on that shaft anywhere except where it has to be. The flywheel is the hard part to remove without damaging things. Your ignition timing is behind there too.
 

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Do you have impact wrenches, the nut will have a washer on it to keep it in place too, make the washer flat and start with attempting to remove the large nut, it's gonna be tight.
Now you gotta figure out how to put some pull on the flywheel without damaging anything.

Very careful use of heat might ease disassembly during the course of removing the flywheel from the taper shaft.
Heat expands the flywheel off the shaft, if you can pull it before the shaft gets hot and expands too.
... and don't set fire to the bike or yourself doing it, you don't need that much heat if the shaft is cold to start.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Do you have impact wrenches, the nut will have a washer on it to keep it in place too, make the washer flat and start with attempting to remove the large nut, it's gonna be tight.
Now you gotta figure out how to put some pull on the flywheel without damaging anything.

Very careful use of heat might ease disassembly during the course of removing the flywheel from the taper shaft.
Heat expands the flywheel off the shaft, if you can pull it before the shaft gets hot and expands too.
... and don't set fire to the bike or yourself doing it, you don't need that much heat if the shaft is cold to start.
I don’t have an impact wrench, I might get lucky and be able to borrow one. Thankfully the puller isn’t as extortionately expensive as an impact wrench.
I guess I have to hope it’s only the outer casing of the flywheel that’s rusted then or this presumably becomes a much more complicated job
 

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Impact wrench won't be required, sometimes it just makes it a little easier.

The rust can be cleaned off and it's not even a problem on the outside, but the inside of the flywheel needs to be free of dirt or metal shavings on the magnets.

Found a photo of what it might look like behind there , the thing with all the copper wire on it is the 3 phase alternator stator assembly, hopefully yours looks that good.



and here's the wiring diagram to go with it;

 

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The three yellow wires coming out of the stator are your alternating current outputs, all 3 of the wires should show the same resistance to ground and that will be a very low resistance, in the realm of one or two ohms.
Each of the three yellow wires will output well in excess of 12 volts AC and each output is out of phase to the other two.

What they are doing here is producing a whole lot of alternating current electrical output, so they can tap off only enough DC power to charge the battery. The rectifier/regulator is the component that does the AC to DC power conversion and the regulator limits the voltage to suit the battery.

The ignition timing appears to be taken off the crankshaft, so this will be a wasted spark ignition system. Meaning both spark plugs fire every time the piston approaches top dead centre. There will only be air and fuel mixture in the combustion chamber for the spark plugs to ignite on every second stroke, because it is a 4 cycle engine. That's also why you only have one ignition coil to fire both spark plugs.
 

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Of course, cleaning that up and putting it back on will be wasted work if you don't fine the aluminum engine cover for it. Most Hondas of that vintage used oil to cool the stator, so without the cover, you will just pump all the oil out of the engine.

Also, some of the bikes of that age used the same threads to pull the rotor as the rear axle, so that may be used as a puller, once you get the center bolt out. Worth a shot.
 
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