[Cdnuturn]

My name is Uturn. I'm a Senior who has been retired since the end of 2009.
My wife & I live in B.C. Canada.
I ride a 1996 1100 Virago cand my wife rides a Suzuki C90Boulevard which has been coverted with a Leman trike conversion kit.
I have come here looking for repair information for her Boulevard.

Winter is on it's way out, so it's time to take the bikes off the trickle chargers and get them ready for a new season.

So, I changed the oil & filter on her bike. Hit the starter and it fired up immediately. Great!
Except it died after about 20 seconds. Attempts to restart it result in it turning over, and over, but no start!
So far my trouble shooting has discovered that neither plug is generating a spark.

As this is happened to both at the same time, I don't suspect coils or such but I checked all the fuses - all good. Pulling the plugs, I detected that it is getting fuel.

I will pick up a couple of new spark plugs tomorrow, to be sure, but I don't have a lot of faith that that is the problem, again as they both quit at the same time.

Anyone have any advice, suggestions?

Thanks.

 

[Cdnuturn]

Ok. 2 new plugs - no spark at either.
Don't think it's an "old gas" issue. It's only been in the bike for 3 months & and it had a fuel stabilizer added when they were put away for the winter. I've been doing this to our bikes every year since we stopped riding through the winter months.

Never had this problem come Spring.

As there is no spark at either plug, I suspect a (common) connector has come loose or a (common) fuse, e.g. Ignition, etc. However, all fuses hove been checked & I couldn't find any loose connector.

I'd appreciate any comments/suggestions, that might direct me in the right direction.

 

[hogcowboy]

Posts moved per request of Cdnuturn.

 

[GatorJoe]

Either Not getting voltage to the Coil or the coil itself ..

 

[WintrSol]

Would it help to have a service manual? I have a pdf copy that I can upload, if you have a link to data storage that you can send via Private Message. Or, I can upload it to my DropBox, and send a link to an email address (also sent via PM).

 

[Cdnuturn]

Thanks for the offer WintrSol, but I have one.

 

[WintrSol]

It that case - is the neutral lamp on when you try to start it? If yes, it may be the side stand relay. Start with the page titled "AUTOMATIC DECOMPRESSION SYSTEM/STARTER SYSTEM
AND SIDE-STAND IGNITION INTERLOCK SYSTEM", and follow on through the "IGNITION SYSEM" section. You can compare the simplified diagrams with the main WIRING DIAGRAM page, to see which connectors may be involved, too.

 

[Miss Mercedes]

But wouldn't a side stand issue cause the starter motor not to turn at all?

 

[SemiFast]

I think I'd check the pulser coil. Your wiring diagram will show you the color of the wires.

Unfortunately I believe it's only sold with the stator assembly ($$$) so be sure the wires, and plug, going to it are in good condition.

 

[Cdnuturn]

Miss Mercedes is right. Besides, this is a trike so no side stand.
Yes, the neutral lamp is on, it cranks over very well.
Don't think it's the decomp system. That's been done - new cable and adjustments last year.
If it was that system, the bike wouldn't turnover.
With no spark at either plug, I suspect a fuse, (I chelcked all fuses), or a loose connector. I've been all over the bike looking at connectors.
However, I must have missed one somewhere!
I'll have another look at the wiring diagram page to see what connectors might be involved. The trick is to physically find the connectors referred to.

Thanks evryone!

 

[WintrSol]

Yes, the starter button uses the same power from the run/stop switch as the coils; the ECM decides if the starter relay activates, when it gets the signal from the starter button. Looking at the diagram, the only connectors involved are the ECM connectors, the one that comes from the CKP sensor, and the terminals on the coils. Have you checked the coils for battery power with the key on?

 

[jag13]

I know this seems really unlikely, but you didn't accidentally hit the kill switch did you?

 

[Critter]

Just going to throw this out there. Check all your grounds.

 

[SemiFast]

I think I'd check the pulser coil. Your wiring diagram will show you the color of the wires.

Also known as a pick-up coil. Works off the rotor thingy connected to the crankshaft down on the left side of the engine.

There probably is an ignition system fuse. The manual should show it and it should be clearly marked in the fuse box.

 

[Unkle Krusty]

Uturn. Where on the big island are you?

UK

 

[Cdnuturn]

I'll look into all your suggestions tomorrow. Thank you.
As for "where on the island", Ladysmith.

 

[Unkle Krusty]

I'll look into all your suggestions tomorrow. Thank you.
As for "where on the island", Ladysmith.

I will try and remember that the next time I go by. Was there yesterday.
Sometimes on my way to the mainland from here, I go to Victoria, visit my young girlfriend, and get the big ferry the next day.
Mrs Snippets returns from foreign lands on Wednesday, so I might be going South on Wednesday. It depends on the weather, which way I go and which bike I ride.

Meanwhile: How many volts are in the battery, and how old is it? It may only have enough umpth to crank the engine, but not fire the plugs. If it ran, and then it did not, it seems like something killed the ignition. Check what the guys above have said. I usually follow the red wyre that goes hot when the key is turned on. Then check all the devises that kill the power from that wyre. Did you hit the kill switch. Jag above beat me to that.

UK

 

[Cdnuturn]

I wasn't able to locate the pulser coil SemiFast mentioned.
However, try this on...
Measured the battery voltage (13 V), at both coils with ignition on. When cranking, it dropped to 9.6 V. Same at both coils.
If I'm reading this correct, that voltage, while cranking, should peak around 180 Volts!
This points to a faulty ignitor, or connector to the ignitor. The lead from connector, at the top left side of the bike, disappears into the cable harness.
Does this sound like a valid deduction to anyone?
Also, can anyone direct me to the actual location of this ignitor?
The way the wires dissapear into the cable harness, tells me that to get his fixed, it means trucking it to a shop.

 

[WintrSol]

I'm not sure what Voltage should peak at 180V, but the igniter can fail to operate below about 10V. Was this measured directly at the battery terminals? If so, any resistance at the ground wire, especially where it connects to the chassis, can reduce that Voltage even further where it is needed most. I think you need to have the battery tested, and probably replaced.

 

[Cdnuturn]

The ignition coil primary peak voltage is stated on p. 14-135 & 14-136, should be 180 V and more. This is measured at the coil, as the starter is engaged.
The ignition coil resistance measurment was within specification as noted in the service manual.
As for the battery. It was purchased 2-3 years ago and seems to still be in good shape, holding a charge of 13 V