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Discussion Starter #1
Hey folks...

This is "dumb question" time for all of you, This is a 1980ish Suzuki GS450. That is not a "slick"...so...it's tire change time for a person who is a car guy.

1.) Do i have to drop the exhaust on both sides or...will the axle 'slide out' from the back?
2.) Please...can someone help me with a 1-2-3 of how to do this?

Thanks from a newbie...ed
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60675
 

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From what I'm able to see, it looks like you can get a wrench on the nut on the right end of the axle. If you drop the left side pipe, you should be able to get a socket on the left end of the axle, loosen until the nut comes off, then pull the axle out the left side.

Can't tell from the photos if you got room to jack the tire/swingarm up high enough so the axle will clear the pipe.
Good luck with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
From what I'm able to see, it looks like you can get a wrench on the nut on the right end of the axle. If you drop the left side pipe, you should be able to get a socket on the left end of the axle, loosen until the nut comes off, then pull the axle out the left side.

Can't tell from the photos if you got room to jack the tire/swingarm up high enough so the axle will clear the pipe.
Good luck with it.
Hmmmm...would I do better disconnecting the shocks and allowing the swing arm to drop???? The pipes are a problem to connect and reconnect...that was the 1st step and one side is very bad. Does it seem that dropping the shocks will give me clearance?????

Thanks for video...thanks for responses...ed
 

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The sissy in the video said he was taking it to the tire shop. Good grief. Let me know if you decide to change the tyre yourself.

UK
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The sissy in the video said he was taking it to the tire shop. Good grief. Let me know if you decide to change the tyre yourself.

UK
OK guys,,,I am dropping the shocks! The real issue here is this is quite a project that "bike folks" around here seem to disdain. I am a car guy and this will be a "paddock bike" for a client. It's a Yamaha 250 Timberwolf on the front...and the 450 Suzuki on the back. I have had a life lesson learning what it is. I am welding in additional braces between Yamaha and Suzuki. Believe me...neither dealerships want to talk about this!
60679


One side of the bike's exhaust manifold has broken studs...that was an engineering 'masterpiece'...I pray! So...not knowing...I repaired that 1st and don't relish taking down the pipes...which I can do. This was before I cleaned it up and placed FAR BETTER mounting under the front end...

You guys must really be magicians to place these machines in a position to safely work on them...and this one is small!

Help me here: I have the front secured...but what is the ideal way to secure the back end? As you see, I am jack 'standed' on the mount....which is a better balance point. Any ideas on how to secure this thing at the rear? It's secure now...but the darned thing has fallen on me...and fortunately...I am still quik enough to get out of the way!!

Many thanks...ed
 

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People that work on their bikes a lot get a motorcycle jack. Then they use tie down or rachet straps to secure the bike to the jack. I have sometimes also used straps put on the handlebars up to the ceiling joists just because I'm paranoid about such things and the ceiling joists are exposed in the shop.

I'm one of those guys that gets teased about using two bungee cords when one would work, but yesterday I saw a guy lose a kayak off his trailer because he only had one strap on it. I'll keep using too many straps or bungee cords. and suffer the teasing. 🙂

(We caught the guy at the next traffic light and let him know where his boat was.)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
That is quite the frankencycle if I do say so myself! At the risk of being Captain Obvious: has the center stand been removed from the bike?
Yes it is! I like the name, and may use it with your permission. Heck, I might use your picture...ha ha ha!!

I have learned that it is very "hair trigger" and will collapse far easier than I remember from my old Yamaha.

As you see here, one of the jack stands is on the "lip"...suggestions, please?

Just received what I would call "Lotus-7" style fenders for the front wheels...this is a crazy thing.

ed
 

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If that center stand is in working condition, here's what I would try:
  1. Put the bike back down on all 3 wheels.
  2. Put the bike up on the center stand to raise the rear wheel.
  3. Use a ratchet strap around the back of the center stand legs around to some place forward on the bike, to hold the stand down in place.
This ought to get the back end up enough so that you can loosen the shocks and get the back wheel off. Leave the front wheels on the ground, as raising the front of the bike will reduce your ground clearance at the rear.

I'm not sure how that two-wheel front end has affected the front/rear balance. If the front is too light and the front of the bike goes up rather than the back when you put it up on the center stand then you'll obviously (there it is again) have to put some weight on the front end.
 

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Roger has got you covered on using the center stand.
One thing I can add is that you only need to remove the lower bolt, or nut. on the rear shocks and not the whole shock.
Then you can pull the lower shock 'eye' off the swingarm and move the shock over enough so that you can Raise the swingarm Up so the axle can be removed from Above the exhaust muffler.
Never work on an old exhaust system if there is any way at all to avoid doing so because the hardware is always rusted and fragile, every time, never fails, always.

S F
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Roger has got you covered on using the center stand.
One thing I can add is that you only need to remove the lower bolt, or nut. on the rear shocks and not the whole shock.
Then you can pull the lower shock 'eye' off the swingarm and move the shock over enough so that you can Raise the swingarm Up so the axle can be removed from Above the exhaust muffler.
Never work on an old exhaust system if there is any way at all to avoid doing so because the hardware is always rusted and fragile, every time, never fails, always.

S F
Roger and SemiFast...thank you about teaching me the "beauty" of a tie down strap. Yes, the light front end was a problem: a 2x6" platform...strapped tight solved that. On the rear end I used more 2x6" as a base and then built it up so that there was a 4" tower...that fit into the 'slot" where the center stand is. Tied that down. The thing is car-solid and I feel good about it. THANK YOU.

2.) I would have tried to remove the bolt by LOWERING the swing arm. Thanks for education...

It's all sanitary...I am gonna remove lower nut...here "we" go!'ll I polished the front brake backing plates...there are a very pretty aluminum. The rear tire arrived and also 3 "mini fenders" which have nice powder coated mounting. I am hoping to mount one side of to the front axle...may need to shave 1/16" off the castle nut...or do you have a better idea? So it's one fender mount to the front frame...fender spanning the ATV tire...and other mount to the axle. This is a paddock bike...so I do not expect it to get fast...just want it to be nice, sexy, safe and reliable.

Many thanks...ed
 

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Discussion Starter #15
60696
OK...everything you have said is working. Here is where I stopped and did NOT get The Big Hammer!

The axle bolt drifted out easily and then stopped here. I have tapped it with a soft mallet and metal drift...but it's not going the rest of the way. Using a ChannelLock on the left side. the bolt is rotating easily...I can actually hand turn it.

Is there a key way I am missing?

I removed the shocks to get the funky flat black. The most problem was with the cotter keys. Thanks again for help with jacking it...very secure and I like that. ed.
 

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The axle bolt drifted out easily and then stopped here.
Is there a key way I am missing?
Try lifting the wheel a little to see if that frees axle.
Yeah, the weight of wheel might be holding it.
There is also a good chance that rust near the end of the axle (where the spacer was) is the hold up.
If you can drive the axle back in and if you can see rust and if you can get to the rust, if there is rust there, then you can scrape the rust off with a dull knife blade or something.
If none of the above works, get a bigger hammer.

S F
 

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Might just be the photo but it looks to me like the right side as dropped some. As stated already, lift the tire/wheel some. I've hammered a 2x4 under the tire to keep it level while punching the axle out. Looks like you should be able to just pull it out if you did that or something like it.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Might just be the photo but it looks to me like the right side as dropped some. As stated already, lift the tire/wheel some. I've hammered a 2x4 under the tire to keep it level while punching the axle out. Looks like you should be able to just pull it out if you did that or something like it.
Thanks...back at it...just wanted to be sure there was not a "key" or lock in there...thanks-thank-thank...
 

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Discussion Starter #20
GOT IT..

...with all my posts about 'sanitary'...I missed crud on the axle that was stopping it from passing thru the axle bearings. Needs rear brake shoes...hope that is eZ-Peezy. I never understood how the chain drives the rear wheels...pretty-pretty castings. All were horrible black...now shiny aluminum. THANKS...on to Page 3
 
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