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I have not argued against a modern chain. But I have mentioned often enough, we ran chains with clips before modern chains were invented. And we ran them on bikes at the track, that would easily match the performance of many modern over weight modern bikes. A 350 Yamaha road race bike would do 148 mph. The 700 and then the 750 Yamaha four cylinder 2 stroke was faster. The 900 Kawasaki engine in a Rickman frame ran pretty fast. Those 750 cc bikes that ran at Daytona had enough giddy up. They all ran chains with clips, as I did. When you do the math, how many pounds is each horsepower pushing, and the brakes are stopping, plus the ease of cornering, it is why we ran fast enough, with chains with clips, to match lap times of modern bikes. UK
 

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I guess I'll just use the $5 clip link for now until I come up with a better solution later. I'm not worried with my conservative riding style. I'm 61, weigh 150 lbs and have early stage lymphoma. I doubt I am going to cause a clip link to dump a chain, provided I install it correctly, which I know how to do.

Maybe later I if I find a reasonably priced, quality rivet link tool I will try it that way.
I've been riding for 50 years and when I first started riding there were no X/O ring chains. I started out buying chains from bike shops but found it much cheaper to buy my chain off the roll from an industrial supplies shop. I had a lot of (then) high performance street bikes like worked Honda Fours, and many Ducatis. Never lost a clip or broke a chain.

As long as you put the clip in the direction of the chain you wont have a problem.

I bought an Aprilia Falco 1000 and RSV spec-ed it. Extremely fast bike. On day while lubing the chain, I noticed one link had lost an O ring. I removed that link and replaced it with an O ring clip link. Never had a problem with that clip link even at high speed.
 

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Ace Tuner
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Also, when you use the tool to rivet on a chain there is a spec for the flare the rivet end. For a 530 chain the flare should be 5.5 to 5.8. You really need a vernier caliper to measure this properly.
I do not understand this spec. (5.5 ~ 5.8). Please explain.

I always measure a chain outer side plate link width (or two) then press the connector link outer plate down until the connector link width measures the same. Doing this will ensure the O-rings in the connector link are compressed the same amount as the O-rings in the rest of the chain. If we press the connector side plate too far inward the O-rings will bind causing what looks kinks at/around the connector.

S F
 

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I do not understand this spec. (5.5 ~ 5.8). Please explain.
I think that the poster means the diameter of the head of the pin once flattened should measure 5.5 -5.8mm - just a guess...but if I'm right, I personally think it's a little excessive and agree with your comment about not compressing the O rings.
68292
 
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