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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys, I'm new here, I hope someone can help me with this, my rear tire, is not taking air, I supposed that my stem core was damaged, I removed it to change it,..and air won't come out, I poke it with a wire to see if there was an obstruction, but nothing,..I tried to fill it with new core, or without any, and it doesn't take air..weird, thanks in advance
 

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You say air want come out, and it is not taking air. So I am confused.
Is the tire flat? Better still. How much air pressure is in the tire?

UK
 

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Discussion Starter #3
You say air want come out, and it is not taking air. So I am confused.
Is the tire flat? Better still. How much air pressure is in the tire?

UK
That's it, I took the core out..and air won't come out, tire still have air, is not completely flat,..that's why I'm puzzled..
 

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Maybe it has a run-flat sealant, that has covered the stem. In any case, I'd have it taken off the rim, especially if the date code says it is more than 5-6 years old.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Maybe it has a run-flat sealant, that has covered the stem. In any case, I'd have it taken off the rim, especially if the date code says it is more than 5-6 years old.
Yes, it has to be something like that, I purchased the motorcycle, 2 years ago, past owner never mention something like that,..front tire still look good, my plan was to take the bike and change that tire 2 weeks ago,
 

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Well, looking good and being safe are two different things, especially with your front tire. The tread hardens and loses grip with age, and the general rule is 6 years and off, even if it has low miles. I wouldn't trust a front tire much older than 7 years to make it through a corner.
 

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I've had this happen with tubed type tire. If it got extremely low the tube would move just enough to put a flap of rubber over the stem. I figured it was a poor installation of the tube to begin with but it came that way. But this was on a small hand truck, not a motorcycle tire. If yours is a tube type, I would have it remounted at the very least but better yet would be a new install of tire and tube or go tubeless if possible.
 

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Okay. Learned my one thing for the day. I never heard of them but certainly see the benefit in having one and that might be exactly what is going on here.
 

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Okay, go on ahead and take your nap for the day, Hogcowboy! :) I'm saving mine for when I get to work this afternoon...
I will. That’s hard work paying attention long enough to learn something new ya know. 🙄😉🥺👌👍
 

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After poking a hole in a brand new tube while mounting a new tire, I looked at how to make a spoked wheel tubeless. Doesn't seem to be an easy, reliable thing to do.

Will just have to keep an eye out for wheels like Zebraranger has on his bike.

Oh, if there's not a core in the valve stem, I can't get air to go in to a tire (tube) with my air chuck either. Don't know if it's that way with all of them.
 

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My first thoughts were to remove and replace parts as Wintr suggests up ^. The entire valve if tubeless, a new tube if it has one. Install some air in the tube, before the pounding and levering the second bead of the tire.
No one has ever pursued my offer to show how to break the bead, so yuse on your own.

UK
 

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I guess they all figured it would cost too much UK.:) :) :)
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I didn't want to tow the bike for the replacement, but I think I will have to, my road assistance will cover up to 15 miles, which is great,..when they take it out I will find out what the hell is wrong with it, thanks everyone, I'll let you know
 

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I am still not sure if it is a front or rear. " Front tire still look good " is a clue, but not a good one. An overhead beam, and pulley system will lift either end. On the center stand, most rear wheels will come out. To get the front off the ground, a jack under the engine or frame, a heavy weight at the back of the bike, or a strap holding down the back. Failing all of that a bike laying on its side works, but not if they are too heavy. The last is the dirt bike plan.

UK
 

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Now me, ... I'd have been pulling out a power drill and bit and taking a core sample. Of course I'd put a piece of masking tape on the bit, so I don't drill too deep and pierce the tire carcass, cause I can never find those set screw, bit stop gadgets when I need them.

Worst case is you drill right through and into your hand, that you are firmly holding the tire with. If you don't do that, (and you shouldn't now that you've realized it's possible), worst case is you screw up the threads mounting the Schader valve. If that happens, you will be right where you are now, paying for transport to the bike shop so you can pay them to change out the tire, and valve stem.

Who knows what you will find in there? Maybe it's filled with Great Stuff, or one of those polyurethane pool noodles. Or maybe concrete?
My money is with WinterSol's guess, no-flat sealant!

How far into the REAR tire did the wire go, when you poked it? 1) About to the end of the valve stem? 2) Past the end of the valve stem? 3) All the way to the inside of tire carcass, and you could feel it poking the tire with the palm of your hand on the tread?
 
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