[WintrSol]

I changed all the 'dash' lamps to LED, the speedo and the tail and license plate bulb, too. I didn't change the turn signals, because of the issue of 4-way flashing if you don't mod the indicator with steering diodes and a ground. BTW, when I did it, they didn't have a LED bulb that fit the license plate light socket, so I broke a filament bulb and soldered in a LED. I put a 35W HID in the headlamp, which had a decent but not perfect pattern. If you can find a quality LED bulb at about 30W, it will be better, provided the pattern is good.

The main reason I changed the tail and license plate lamps weren't to save power, as the bike has plenty, but for those times when one turns the key to stop the engine, and it ends up in P instead of OFF. That leaves the tail and plate lamps on, which will kill the battery in a few hours; switching to LED changed that to days. The other LEDs were for better color and brightness.

 

[Pete Leoni]

Oh yeah! Still uses a old fashioned flasher that is looking for a load to interrupt. Right! Leave the turn signals. I will also put a piezoelectric 95db beeper across that flasher. I did that years ago, now they are dirt cheap and have the beep driver built in. That one is worth the added complexity. Turn signals left on-can get you tickets or killed. Thanks again. I will put link to the led headlight I think will work and the beeper.

 

[Pete Leoni]

What about the battery anyway? Best replaced with a li-on of something? You can get those 12v jump starters pretty inexpensively. Or maybe just take one along. Guessing there are now li-on batteries for us?

 

[WintrSol]

IMO, you are better off with an AGM lead-acid battery in the bike. LiFe batteries really don't add any value, and those large enough are still a lot more expensive. An AGM doesn't need to be watered (a PITA on this bike), and lasts longer than a standard flooded battery. I put one in my S50, and it was still strong after 5 years; same for my CB450, which has been in there even longer. Carrying a jump start battery is a good idea though; I carry one in my old CB450, for those mornings it decides to be slow to start.

Ignore my remarks about adding diodes when replacing the signals with LEDs - your bike already has them, because of the 4-way flasher system the older models didn't have. You would have to change the flasher relay, though, but LED versions are really common.

 

[Miss Mercedes]

Assuming you will have a cellular device like a smartphone, you will want to take these precautions:

Water protection: Buy a water resistant phone or a waterproof case for your phone.

Charging: I stated this before, but I think I want to stress it a little more. If you'll be doing any adventuring in the cold, your phone is likely to die. Lithium phone batteries hate temps of 32F and below. A phone can go from 80% to dead in mere minutes in freezing temperatures.

The best ways to combat this would be to get a thermal case and/or a way to keep the battery full. You can get a USB hub from Amazon for $9 and it'll take just a few minutes to install.

 

[navy8ret]

By this point most all of what you'll need is pretty much covered. What I'm surprised at though is no one has mentioned taking extra fuses
along. At least 3 of each of the ones used on your bike is my recommendation.
Have fun on your planning and have a great trip!!

 

[Pete Leoni]

Assuming you will have a cellular device like a smartphone, you will want to take these precautions:

Water protection: Buy a water resistant phone or a waterproof case for your phone.

Charging: I stated this before, but I think I want to stress it a little more. If you'll be doing any adventuring in the cold, your phone is likely to die. Lithium phone batteries hate temps of 32F and below. A phone can go from 80% to dead in mere minutes in freezing temperatures.

The best ways to combat this would be to get a thermal case and/or a way to keep the battery full. You can get a USB hub from Amazon for $9 and it'll take just a few minutes to install.

e
I would suppose I will need a usb tap off of my bike battery. I can’t imagine the current would be high enough to stress the stator.

 

[Rollin']

Prepping my DL650 for a trip to the Arctic Ocean, a very remote location. 18 day trip.
Trying to bring everything I might need without adding too much weight. Will have basic tools, fuses, tape, ty-raps, small air compressor, tire plugs and spare gasoline.
Installed LED headlight bulbs, more light and frees up power for my heated jacket liner and gloves.

Starting the trip with new tires and replaced the battery to save some weight. My new Shorai battery saved 6.6 pounds and has higher capacity. Looking at each item - do I need it or would it just be nice to have? If its just a "nice to have" item its removed.

 

[Rollin']

e
I would suppose I will need a usb tap off of my bike battery. I can’t imagine the current would be high enough to stress the stator.

I would recommend a removeable USB adapter, USB adapters can draw power even when not being used. I added an SAE power cord in my saddlebag and use a USB adapter when needed.

Also have a SAE power cord on the side of the bike and use that cord for the Battery Tender, air compressor and heated gear. Makes everything plug and play.

 

[Miss Mercedes]

I would recommend a removeable USB adapter, USB adapters can draw power even when not being used. I added an SAE power cord in my saddlebag and use a USB adapter when needed.

Also have a SAE power cord on the side of the bike and use that cord for the Battery Tender, air compressor and heated gear. Makes everything plug and play.

Yep! I just disconnect the positive from the hub when the bike is parked. A more elegant solution would be a switch, but yanking the positive only takes a few seconds.

 

[WintrSol]

For adding a power tap (also useful for battery tenders), there is a pair of accessory terminals on the fuse box, left side under the cover. You aren't going to jump start it through them, but any low current use is fine. The (+) terminal is fused at 10A.

 

[hogcowboy]

Assuming you will have a cellular device like a smartphone, you will want to take these precautions:

Water protection: Buy a water resistant phone or a waterproof case for your phone.

Charging: I stated this before, but I think I want to stress it a little more. If you'll be doing any adventuring in the cold, your phone is likely to die. Lithium phone batteries hate temps of 32F and below. A phone can go from 80% to dead in mere minutes in freezing temperatures.

The best ways to combat this would be to get a thermal case and/or a way to keep the battery full. You can get a USB hub from Amazon for $9 and it'll take just a few minutes to install.

e
I would suppose I will need a usb tap off of my bike battery. I can’t imagine the current would be high enough to stress the stator.

I would recommend a removeable USB adapter, USB adapters can draw power even when not being used. I added an SAE power cord in my saddlebag and use a USB adapter when needed.

Also have a SAE power cord on the side of the bike and use that cord for the Battery Tender, air compressor and heated gear. Makes everything plug and play.

Yep! I just disconnect the positive from the hub when the bike is parked. A more elegant solution would be a switch, but yanking the positive only takes a few seconds.

Or you could put a cigarette type adapter in and carry a solar panel with you that can charge your bike battery while also charging you phone battery as well. Two birds with one stone kind of thing. Something like this but I'm sure there maybe better options. Found that one on a quick search of solar panels and USB ports.

 

[Miss Mercedes]

Oh snap that's really smart!

 

[Pete Leoni]

Or you could put a cigarette type adapter in and carry a solar panel with you that can charge your bike battery while also charging you phone battery as well. Two birds with one stone kind of thing. Something like this but I'm sure there maybe better options. Found that one on a quick search of solar panels and USB ports.

Excellent!!!!!