[WintrSol]

I put a lot of miles on my '05 S50; I also fitted a TourTank to a luggage rack I got from eBay, to add an extra gallon of gas. The rack actually was for an older Intruder model, but they're all basically the same. Because it sits higher, you have to keep the petcock OFF until you think the TourTank is mostly gone, so the main tank doesn't overflow, and remember this when filling both.

Hydraulic clutch, so no cable issues; fresh fluid in it and brake, and don't forget to check the wear indicator on the rear brake. Also, lube the moving parts activated by the brake pedal.

You might consider an in-line fuel filter ahead of the fuel pump.

When changing the coolant, make sure you use the recommended amount of Stops Leaks; Suzuki says it is for the ultra-thin radiator, but it also lubes the water pump.

There have been reports of issues with the run/stop switch getting dirty or soft, so open and clean it. The clutch safety hangs out in the rain, and gets dirty; the bit of it that sticks up into the clutch lever brakes easily, so if you service that switch, be careful with it. I never had any issues with any of the safety switches, but I did clean and put silicone lube on the seams.

 

[WintrSol]

Could be the side stand relay, which is under the seat (unless moved), number 22: https://www.partsoutlaw.com/oemparts/a/suz/506b5a37f8700235b87675e9/wiring-harness. The relay interrupts power to the run/stop switch, which powers the ignition and starter button. BTW, the starter button turns the headlamp off when active, so you don't divert power from the starter and ignition.

How about a wiring diagram? If you PM an email address, I can send a pdf format copy.

If I recall correctly, there is a connector between the stand switch and the rest of the harness, under the left transmission cover that makes it easy to bypass there.
That cover is number 23 on this drawing: https://www.partsoutlaw.com/oemparts/a/suz/506b5a11f8700235b87675cf/crankcase-cover

 

[WintrSol]

Also, there's lawyer, and probably a lawsuit, behind those safeties. Somewhere in the past, someone started the bike in gear without pulling the clutch in and crashed, or someone rode off with the side stand down and crashed. I don't know how we survived with our old, safety-less bikes for all those years!

 

[WintrSol]

Sooo... I was studying the wiring diagram.......Any downsides to a semi-direct hot 12+ wire (through a separate and simple spst kill switch) direct to the common coil / igniter Orange/White wire? Would not that, combined the direct starter switch that I already have done, bypass all safety **** and (given no fuel delivery issues) guarantee that it will crank? Looks to me after studying the diagram, that that O/W wire is final +12v for the entire ignition system. At that point I have the ultimate “get outa here now” backup. Unless I read the diagram wrong (-:

Only down side I see is anyone could ride off with it.

The fuel pump has a safety relay, which activates the pump when the (stock) start button is pressed, or when triggered by a signal from one of the coils. If the engine stops running, so does the pump, so you don't pump gas if the engine dies. This can be disabled, too, by connecting the wire that routes from it to the start button direct to your bypass ignition switch. The pump turns off when the carbs are full, and a pressure switch disconnects its motor, to prevent too much pressure on the float valves. Keeping the start button signal active doesn't prevent this from working.

 

[WintrSol]

The Y/G wire is powered by the starter switch; if you connect it directly to your ignition power bypass switch, the pump will run whenever the switch is on, and the carbs are not full. You would have to separate it from the wire to the starter relay. Or, if you have your bypass start switch connected to both, it just needs the signal from the coil to keep running as long as the engine runs. Dealer's choice.

 

[WintrSol]

I changed all the 'dash' lamps to LED, the speedo and the tail and license plate bulb, too. I didn't change the turn signals, because of the issue of 4-way flashing if you don't mod the indicator with steering diodes and a ground. BTW, when I did it, they didn't have a LED bulb that fit the license plate light socket, so I broke a filament bulb and soldered in a LED. I put a 35W HID in the headlamp, which had a decent but not perfect pattern. If you can find a quality LED bulb at about 30W, it will be better, provided the pattern is good.

The main reason I changed the tail and license plate lamps weren't to save power, as the bike has plenty, but for those times when one turns the key to stop the engine, and it ends up in P instead of OFF. That leaves the tail and plate lamps on, which will kill the battery in a few hours; switching to LED changed that to days. The other LEDs were for better color and brightness.

 

[WintrSol]

IMO, you are better off with an AGM lead-acid battery in the bike. LiFe batteries really don't add any value, and those large enough are still a lot more expensive. An AGM doesn't need to be watered (a PITA on this bike), and lasts longer than a standard flooded battery. I put one in my S50, and it was still strong after 5 years; same for my CB450, which has been in there even longer. Carrying a jump start battery is a good idea though; I carry one in my old CB450, for those mornings it decides to be slow to start.

Ignore my remarks about adding diodes when replacing the signals with LEDs - your bike already has them, because of the 4-way flasher system the older models didn't have. You would have to change the flasher relay, though, but LED versions are really common.

 

[WintrSol]

For adding a power tap (also useful for battery tenders), there is a pair of accessory terminals on the fuse box, left side under the cover. You aren't going to jump start it through them, but any low current use is fine. The (+) terminal is fused at 10A.