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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello from a Katrina Retread!
Hi All. Pete here, glad to be minus two wheels again. Lost my bikes (and a few other minor things house possessions etc) in 2005 Katrina. Recently aquired a 2006 Suzuki S50 (Intruder) Good to be back on 2 wheels! Bike has only 4300 miles, but was left out a lot. Now planning on a long remote bucket list trip on a 2006 Suzuki.

Need to make it breakdown bullet proof as possible. Maybe bypass safety interlocks etc. This is going to be remote trip. No cell, no people. I will be totally dependent on the bike starting and running. What all can I do, and what do I need to carry as spares? I have no issues working on anything, just need to understand systems and failure possibilities.

Obviously I will do tires battery etc, but we all know it’s easy to get bit in the butt by simple stuff. *I have already put a stout straight start button right to the starter relay, it works great* but there are also interlocks that prevent spark/fire I notice (kickstand / neutral) What else could “get” me? What other interlocks can I bypass? Maybe I will put bypass switches that jumper systems in emergencies. Or conversely if you were presented this bike with the wiring messed up, what would you “hotwire” to get the basics going to ferry it? As of now I can always make the starter spin the bike over. One down

What are the normal “failure modes of these bikes? Any “bite you in the ass” computer **** or modules that are impossible to fix in field etc. ? I need to do it all, truly “bullet proof as possible” like my old Cessna 172 plane was. Thanks Y’all!
 

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Hello from a Katrina Retread!
Hi All. Pete here, glad to be minus two wheels again. Lost my bikes (and a few other minor things house possessions etc) in 2005 Katrina. Recently aquired a 2006 Suzuki S50 (Intruder) Good to be back on 2 wheels! Bike has only 4300 miles, but was left out a lot. Now planning on a long remote bucket list trip on a 2006 Suzuki.
Welcome back!

Need to make it breakdown bullet proof as possible.
A 2006 Suzuki will be fairly bulletproof without any special effort.
My K6 Suzuki Bandit 650 has been very reliable over the last 7 years.

You said it has been left outside a lot. This could lead to wiring and connector
problems. Bring a short length of insulated wire. This will make it easy to bypass
the clutch or side stand switch if you have problems starting the bike.

If you have an alarm/immobiliser fitted, make sure you know how to
remove or bypass it in the event of a failure.

Maybe bypass safety interlocks etc.
You are unlikely to have any problems, but you may as well be prepared.

Wire, snips, insulating tape, cable ties....

I have no issues working on anything, just need to understand systems and failure possibilities.
The most likely cause of breakdown is a puncture. For tubeless tyres, bring a plug kit and a
small 12V compressor. I'm not sure what you would do with a tubed tyre. Use a can
of 'stuff' for a temporary repair or remove the wheel for a proper repair. If the tube or valve
is badly damaged, I suppose you won't have much choice in the matter.

Obviously I will do tires battery etc, but we all know it’s easy to get bit in the butt by simple stuff. *I have already put a stout straight start button right to the starter relay, it works great* but there are also interlocks that prevent spark/fire I notice (kickstand / neutral) What else could “get” me?
I think you have that well covered.

What are the normal “failure modes of these bikes?
Apart from punctures and wiring faults, the other common problems are:
Broken clutch cable. An experienced rider will be able to continue without
using the clutch.

Coolant leak. Minor leaks are survivable as long as you have enough water
available. Radiator leaks can usually be sorted by adding 'stuff'.
I had a major leak in the rad of my ZZR-1100 on a 400 mile trip in
2014. Luckily, there was an auto parts supplier nearby and I was
able to fix it with Novastop and tap water.

Enjoy the trip. Service the bike well before you depart, just in case
you introduce any faults while you are working on it.
 

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I put a lot of miles on my '05 S50; I also fitted a TourTank to a luggage rack I got from eBay, to add an extra gallon of gas. The rack actually was for an older Intruder model, but they're all basically the same. Because it sits higher, you have to keep the petcock OFF until you think the TourTank is mostly gone, so the main tank doesn't overflow, and remember this when filling both.

Hydraulic clutch, so no cable issues; fresh fluid in it and brake, and don't forget to check the wear indicator on the rear brake. Also, lube the moving parts activated by the brake pedal.

You might consider an in-line fuel filter ahead of the fuel pump.

When changing the coolant, make sure you use the recommended amount of Stops Leaks; Suzuki says it is for the ultra-thin radiator, but it also lubes the water pump.

There have been reports of issues with the run/stop switch getting dirty or soft, so open and clean it. The clutch safety hangs out in the rain, and gets dirty; the bit of it that sticks up into the clutch lever brakes easily, so if you service that switch, be careful with it. I never had any issues with any of the safety switches, but I did clean and put silicone lube on the seams.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
If I could get everyone a dollar per good suggestion, I certainly would. Or at least a beer in Bay St. Louis Mississippi.

Thank ZX and WinterSol. I have already had the clutch interlock or starter button go out, thus the direct starter switch. What bothers me now is some of these systems prevent ignition even though starter spins. I don’t like that at all. Possibilities multiply at an exponential rate. Exactly how do I best bypass side stand and neutral safety switches it at least install a failsafe override simple toggle on those systems? I note these are routed through commonly located diodes in the schematic, another source of possible issues. Thanks again
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I guess the ignition is dead unless both the side stand and neutral switch are not where they want them. In schematic I note commonly located diodes. Yuck...sources of possible stranding if you don’t understand how they work, thus the need to know how to wire an emergency bypass. Thanks
 

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Could be the side stand relay, which is under the seat (unless moved), number 22: https://www.partsoutlaw.com/oemparts/a/suz/506b5a37f8700235b87675e9/wiring-harness. The relay interrupts power to the run/stop switch, which powers the ignition and starter button. BTW, the starter button turns the headlamp off when active, so you don't divert power from the starter and ignition.

How about a wiring diagram? If you PM an email address, I can send a pdf format copy.

If I recall correctly, there is a connector between the stand switch and the rest of the harness, under the left transmission cover that makes it easy to bypass there.
That cover is number 23 on this drawing: https://www.partsoutlaw.com/oemparts/a/suz/506b5a11f8700235b87675cf/crankcase-cover
 

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Also, there's lawyer, and probably a lawsuit, behind those safeties. Somewhere in the past, someone started the bike in gear without pulling the clutch in and crashed, or someone rode off with the side stand down and crashed. I don't know how we survived with our old, safety-less bikes for all those years! :D
 

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I recently took a 150cc scooter on a wild 160 mile offroad adventure through the middle of nowhere.

Here are some of my own personal notes that I took after the scooter died. The scooter ultimately failed to go the full 500 miles due to the carburetor getting clogged and absolutely no fuel getting to the bike. For a few minutes the bike was literally ONLY running on the carb fluid I was shooting into the carb while riding it. It was game over once I ran out. Had it not been because I was in a group of other offroaders (I was the only one on two wheels), I would have been stranded. These notes are specific to trying to turn a scooter into an ADV, but it can be useful elsewhere:

-- Fuel System: Make sure the tank has a fuel filter. Carry both carb cleaner and starting fluid in ample amounts. It also helps to have a second carb and some lines in case something really goes wrong.

-- Air: Use a cleanable air filter. If water crossings are expected, it may be beneficial to fit a snorkel.

-- Transmission: Carry an extra drive belt.

-- Cooling: Carry extra coolant and cooling system parts like a thermostat and thermo switch. However, it's best to go air cooled.

-- Chassis: If the bike has vital lines running through a vulnerable area (like coolant lines), a skid plate can be critical.

-- Electrical: Scooters don't have a lot of overhead to work with. Ditch the halogen headlamp for LED. With the freed up space I can fit device chargers and other creature comforts.

-- Switches: Important switches that can prevent starting like the kill switch, side stand switch, and brake switch should either be bypassed or serviced before departing. Some brake switches can be bypassed without impacting brake light function and the side stand switch has a similar story.

-- Cables: If the bike is old, replacing cables (brake, throttle, clutch, etc) before departing can also prevent a way of ending up stranded.

-- Tires: Use tubed tires (or tubeless tires with a tube inside, if possible) and carry extra tubes.

-- Fuel: I carry an extra 2 gallons.
 

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You're welcome! As luck would have it, someone doing the same offroad rally as my team (my team had my scooter, a lifted Chevy Cobalt, a Lexus RX, a Miata "death kart", and an AWD Suzuki Aerio) had a pickup truck. We stuffed it into the pickup and dealt with the scooter once we got back to camp.

This is where having a spare carb would have helped me because I could have just swapped the carb and kept on riding.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Sooo... I was studying the wiring diagram.......Any downsides to a semi-direct hot 12+ wire (through a separate and simple spst kill switch) direct to the common coil / igniter Orange/White wire? Would not that, combined the direct starter switch that I already have done, bypass all safety **** and (given no fuel delivery issues) guarantee that it will crank? Looks to me after studying the diagram, that that O/W wire is final +12v for the entire ignition system. At that point I have the ultimate “get outa here now” backup. Unless I read the diagram wrong (-:
 

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Also, there's lawyer, and probably a lawsuit, behind those safeties. Somewhere in the past, someone started the bike in gear without pulling the clutch in and crashed, or someone rode off with the side stand down and crashed. I don't know how we survived with our old, safety-less bikes for all those years! :D

My Old 05 Dyna will start in gear and run as well with the Kickstand Down .. No problems with either one since acquired it 3 Years Ago .. Helps that I started riding before they even added a Kill Switch to Motorcycles .. Are a couple of features that will stop it like the Crankcase Position Sensor or the Ignition Module, but that's about all ..
 

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Sooo... I was studying the wiring diagram.......Any downsides to a semi-direct hot 12+ wire (through a separate and simple spst kill switch) direct to the common coil / igniter Orange/White wire? Would not that, combined the direct starter switch that I already have done, bypass all safety **** and (given no fuel delivery issues) guarantee that it will crank? Looks to me after studying the diagram, that that O/W wire is final +12v for the entire ignition system. At that point I have the ultimate “get outa here now” backup. Unless I read the diagram wrong (-:
Only down side I see is anyone could ride off with it.

The fuel pump has a safety relay, which activates the pump when the (stock) start button is pressed, or when triggered by a signal from one of the coils. If the engine stops running, so does the pump, so you don't pump gas if the engine dies. This can be disabled, too, by connecting the wire that routes from it to the start button direct to your bypass ignition switch. The pump turns off when the carbs are full, and a pressure switch disconnects its motor, to prevent too much pressure on the float valves. Keeping the start button signal active doesn't prevent this from working.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Great tip! WinterSol...How would you all suggest putting a “bug out” bypass switch on the fuel pump? Thanks!
 

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The Y/G wire is powered by the starter switch; if you connect it directly to your ignition power bypass switch, the pump will run whenever the switch is on, and the carbs are not full. You would have to separate it from the wire to the starter relay. Or, if you have your bypass start switch connected to both, it just needs the signal from the coil to keep running as long as the engine runs. Dealer's choice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
The Y/G wire is powered by the starter switch; if you connect it directly to your ignition power bypass switch, the pump will run whenever the switch is on, and the carbs are not full. You would have to separate it from the wire to the starter relay. Or, if you have your bypass start switch connected to both, it just needs the signal from the coil to keep running as long as the engine runs. Dealer's choice.
Thanks! I guess those mods about “bullet proofs” the “start up and run get the hell out of Dodge” scenario. Moving on to charging system gen/stator. My thought here is change all major lighting to low current draw leds, head, tail, brake signal lights. In doing so I will have less load, less heat, less wear. Stator probably last forever. Probably all I can do for electrics in general huh?
 
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