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1998 Kawasaki KLE500
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4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everybody,
As the title says, the break light does not work. It lights up normally when turning the lights on but does not get brighter when I use the brakes. The bulb itself seemed to be in working order when I tested it with a multimeter. I can hear the switch click when pulling the front brake lever so I don't thing that's the problem. I also made sure the rear switch was not stuck in the "on" position.
I am not that familiar with electrical components so I don't know what could be the issue or where to start looking.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
 

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Visionary
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6,215 Posts
Check all fuses, probably you'd have other symptoms if anything is blown but you never know.
Check the terminals in the socket and on the bulb for corrosion, that's often the whole issue.
Test the 2 terminals in the socket, one supplies 12 v for the running light when the key is on, the other supplies 12v only when the brake is activated. If that's not happening then follow that wire back until you find a break or disconnection that's causing the issue.
If these simple checks don't find the cause then you need to find a wiring diagram, if you do post it here if you need some assistance following it, there may or may not be a relay or electronic module involved or it might just be a simple switch circuit.
 
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CB125T, EX250 commuter, Ninja 250 racebike, CBR250R(MC19), VF500F, CBR600RR, VFR750F
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603 Posts
Trace power along wires from brake-lever switch all way back to light bulb.

  • Measure voltage going into brake-lever switch, volts = ???
  • squeeze lever, strap to grip with zip-tie, measure voltage leaving brake-lever switch, volts = ???
  • follow wire to next junction, measure voltage at terminal by back-probing connector. Volts = ???
  • continue to each connector on circuit until you reach brake-bulb socket

Where power disappears indicates problem is between that location and previous one that did have power.

 

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Ace Tuner
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4,801 Posts
The filament in a bulb can break then temporally fall back in place. It could fool a continuity test because of that. Possible, not usually probable but it's why I start troubleshooting this type of thing using a new bulb. It's quick, simple, cheap and generally a reliable way to start your search for the problem. The worst that can happen is you end up with an extra bulb but you will have eliminated the absolute most common problem when a light doesn't light, the bulb.
There is no disgrace in first trying what is easy and cheap...
As others said, when you see rusted contacts in the socket you gotta do something about that. After you fix that, see if your new bulb works.

The other guys got you covered if it goes farther than just a bulb.

S F
 
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