Motorcycle Forum banner

1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
First of all this is the best forum ever. My first post was about some problems with the bike and it was solved immediately. This is a really long post so thank you for your patience.

I just did a oil change on my 2000 katana 600 and looks like the previous owner didn't do this for awhile (really really dark oil). Before I do the oil change it was some petroleum oil and a Fram filter. I put in synthetic 10w-40 motorcycle oil and a K&N filter.

Here are the steps I took to put in the new oils and filter after completely draining my bike's oil out.
1. I pour oil into the new filter to fill it then put it on.

2. On the engine it says 3300ml so I put around 3200ml into it. I can see the oil is half way to full.

3. (read this from internet) It says I should start the bike let it run for five minutes then turn off the bike then check the oil level. I start the bike and let it run then the bike stalled after a minute. Check the oil level and now I can't see any.

4. I put in more oil and tried to start the bike then a really loud pop come out.
It happen twice. Then my bike starts again.

5. Now katana has a delayed choke which if I turn on the choke all the way; it would stay in low rpm then after 5-6 seconds it will go into high rpm.
I test ride the katana and overall feels fine.

What is causing the problem with the choke? My friend said some air might have gotten into the engine and this is really bad. He suggest I might have to do a engine rebuild or another oil change to let the air out?
 

·
Member Map
Joined
·
23,911 Posts
Engines are not air tight. Your friend doesn't know what he is talking about.

How exactly are you checking the oil level? Be positive you are not overfilling it.

Changing the oil will not have any effect on the fuel mixture or choke. My guess is that the problems are unrelated.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,003 Posts
I don't know much about motorcycle engines, but I have experience with sludge. Failure to change the oil (previous owner) produces sludge that can cause the valves to get stuck. This can be a reason she ain't running right. DO NOT add any more oil till you figure out where the oil that you put in went to. There could be sludge blocking something up not letting the oil pass through. Adding more oil will just blow your seals. Getting the sludge out is a pain staking project. I just recently did it on my 350 truck engine. Lots of tearing apart, tons of brake cleaner, and extraordinary amount of elbow grease. If I could have choked the previous owner I would have.......
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Engines are not air tight. Your friend doesn't know what he is talking about.

How exactly are you checking the oil level? Be positive you are not overfilling it.

Changing the oil will not have any effect on the fuel mixture or choke. My guess is that the problems are unrelated.
How do I make sure the engine is air tight? and will over tighten the oil filter cause this?

There is a small side window where you can check the oil level. It is now three fourth to full.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
I don't know much about motorcycle engines, but I have experience with sludge. Failure to change the oil (previous owner) produces sludge that can cause the valves to get stuck. This can be a reason she ain't running right. DO NOT add any more oil till you figure out where the oil that you put in went to. There could be sludge blocking something up not letting the oil pass through. Adding more oil will just blow your seals. Getting the sludge out is a pain staking project. I just recently did it on my 350 truck engine. Lots of tearing apart, tons of brake cleaner, and extraordinary amount of elbow grease. If I could have choked the previous owner I would have.......
So you are saying that if the previous owner did not change the oil in a long time the sludge would cause this? But before I change the oil the bike was running perfectly fine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,003 Posts
The motor does not need to be air tight. You need air to properly fire. So don't worry about that at all. On the window the oil should only by 3/4 of the way up the window. (atleast on my bike, and the bike has to be stood straight up to get an accurate reading) so it sounds like your oil level is fine.

I'm not saying sludge is the reason why your bike is doing this, but it's possible that the valves are not closing/opening correctly because of buildup. By changing the oil, you may have possibly caused a chunk of sludge to set in a place it shouldn't have. But i'm not a mechanic, so take what I say with a grain of salt.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,642 Posts
As Dods said, don't listen to your friend. Your engine isn't supposed to be airtight! Think of it as a living thing, it has to breath. Changing the oil shouldn't have anything to do with what you are describing. Zippy is right about the possibility of sludge, but that shouldn't cause a non start either after just an oil change. Also, when you got her running the oil gets circulated, it needs to drain back to the bottom end to get a good read on levels. DO NOT simply add more oil immediately after shutting the bike down.
Now for the sludge issue. How many miles are on the bike? If I recall from your previous post it's not all that high mileage. Chances of a heavy sludge buildup are not that great unless the oil had NEVER been changed. Get her running, get her good and warm and drain the oil hot immediately after shutting her down. depending on how the oil looks you may need to do this a couple times, but it should take care of minor amounts of sludge.
Good luck.
 

·
Member Map
Joined
·
23,911 Posts
My concern with the oil level is what position the motorcycle was in when checked. Some require that the motorcycle be held level and not on the side stand. If this is that type, and you checked it on the side stand instead of level, it might be way over full.

It's best to check the manual in advance to avoid doing damage. If you don't have one, it will pay for itself by avoiding the first mistake.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
As Dods said, don't listen to your friend. Your engine isn't supposed to be airtight! Think of it as a living thing, it has to breath. Changing the oil shouldn't have anything to do with what you are describing. Zippy is right about the possibility of sludge, but that shouldn't cause a non start either after just an oil change. Also, when you got her running the oil gets circulated, it needs to drain back to the bottom end to get a good read on levels. DO NOT simply add more oil immediately after shutting the bike down.
Now for the sludge issue. How many miles are on the bike? If I recall from your previous post it's not all that high mileage. Chances of a heavy sludge buildup are not that great unless the oil had NEVER been changed. Get her running, get her good and warm and drain the oil hot immediately after shutting her down. depending on how the oil looks you may need to do this a couple times, but it should take care of minor amounts of sludge.
Good luck.
My bike is relatively new 2000 katana with only 10k miles on it. After the oil change the bike now start more easily but only the choke has a delay, what I described above. So this might be sludge issue as you stated because the oil was really really dark in color when I unscrew the screw to the oil.

Should I be concerned with the loud pops right after I added more oil on step 4? (after I added more oil it is now 3/4 full and the bike is straight up when I read it)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,642 Posts
If the bike starts okay and runs okay, then I don't see a problem. It's not like you ride with the choke on. The popping could be saying I need a carb adjustment. Did it just pop once or it this a continual problem? Some popping can be normal on deceleration. Does it have aftermarket pipes? They can cause the mixture to change and may require a re-jet or adjustment. I wouldn't worry about the dark oil too much. Dino oil typically gets dark after use. With only 10K on the clock I doubt you have any sludge issues, even if the oil had never been changed. Are you checking the oil with a sight glass or a dipstick? (not sure which the Katana has) If you're checking with the sight glass then it should only be about 1/2 to 3/4 of the way up the sight glass.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
If the bike starts okay and runs okay, then I don't see a problem. It's not like you ride with the choke on. The popping could be saying I need a carb adjustment. Did it just pop once or it this a continual problem? Some popping can be normal on deceleration. Does it have aftermarket pipes? They can cause the mixture to change and may require a re-jet or adjustment. I wouldn't worry about the dark oil too much. Dino oil typically gets dark after use. With only 10K on the clock I doubt you have any sludge issues, even if the oil had never been changed. Are you checking the oil with a sight glass or a dipstick? (not sure which the Katana has) If you're checking with the sight glass then it should only be about 1/2 to 3/4 of the way up the sight glass.
Thanks for the clarification. The pop only happened twice while I was trying to start the bike. Now there is no pop sound anymore. The motorcycle runs fine with the new oil; I guess it needs a day to settle in. I will be doing another oil change this week because after today's ride I notice the oil has already gone pretty dark in color. I guess it might be the previous owner did not maintain it at all. The Katana has a sight glass and the oil is about 3/4 as you said.

What would happen if you over-fill an engine?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,169 Posts
An overfull engine can lead to oil in the engine intake. That will show up as oil dripping on your engine or similarly hard to diagnose conditions.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,336 Posts
I agree, you don't want too much oil. It essentially results in a larger volume of oil trying to run through the engine than it is designed to handle, and at some point, something's got to give. It is usually seals and gaskets that lose that battle.

There is this stuff that they make for cars - and l have no idea if they make it for bikes, or if it would be safe for bikes - but you mix it in with your oil and run it for a while right before you change the oil. It breaks up sludge and dirt, so that more crud comes out when you drain your oil. We did it to an old car that l bought back in the day that had been neglected, and it ran much better after that.
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top