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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
TY for all the great answers

Heres where the bike sits now
cleaned and inspected carb, its missing part 8 spring and the brass filter that sits in the carb to filter incoming gas, I think the accelerator pump works, when I open airbox I can see the nipple squirting gas in,,,BUT the question is is the spring NEEDED in part 8, remember this bike was running for 3 days then just hestated and stalled out, tank has been drained, all new OEM plugs

As of right now The bike will start with choke open, when you rev throttle it bogs, then stalls,,,,if you put it in gear give gas, it stalls out, then starts again

I am waiting on glens tool so i can adjust the mixture screw and waiting on the MJ and PJ to replace the 185 and 55 with 200 and 58,,,I know those jets arent the issue but will give me a nice upgrade once the bike it running

Once his tool comes I am going to pull apart and once again clean carb, upjet, adjust AF screw and see what I get from there

WHat else should I try to do?

TY ALL :)
 

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You must follow every drilled passage to make sure the other end is open.

Be aware that the jets may be smaller even with bigger numbers on them if Chinese, a lot of that going around. Official Honda likely Keihin part only there.
 

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Keihin part will have the wonky 'K' emblem stamped in them.

 

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Ace Tuner
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I did not have a "D" tool to turn the mixture screw
Honda uses that type of fuel mixture screw as a way to make them non-adjustable to the public. Good that you've got a tool for them on the way. .....Bad that you're set on changing the pilot jet..... Also you have to remove the slide diaphragm in order to clean and / or be sure the needle jet, jet needle and air port going to the needle jet are all clean.
Use a small pair of vice grips with the teeth on the sides of the stripped screw head for removing the carb cap. (Vice grips perpendicular to the screw threads). Works most of the time.

S F
 

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With the accent on small NEEDLENOSE visegrips, they work much better.

One other thing.............when one rebuilds or cleans carbs there is aa common place to set any idle speed screw to. Look in FRONT of carb with the butterfly completely shut, then s-l-o-w-l-y crack it open. As you do, barely off completely shut you will see a small hole just begin to appear and you set the butterfly to where it is closed just enough to barely cut view of that hole off, but where any opening of the butterfly begins to expose it instantly. The best place to start and commonly sort of close to idle speed there. Do NOT expose that hole if at idle, you will run rich, the hole is a fuel feed and is supposed to be blocked at pure idle but then exposes at any throttle movement at all.
 

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I've been able to get a tighter, stronger grip with non-needle nose types. BUT you can only get a small amount of screw movement due to space limitations. Usually that's enough to get the screw started moving. Be carful that you don't let your tool "eat" the sides of the screw cause you pretty much just get one try before you have to resort to the grinder...

S F
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
great stuff,,,,,semifast, you dont think its a good idea to change the pilot jet?,,,,maybe leave that one and go with a 200MJ over my 185, you think thats a good idea? They say 185 is on the lean side

I think the plan next when all the tools arrive, COMPLETELY clean and inspect the carb and make the adjustment to the mixture screw,,,,,and hope the bike pops off
 

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I think the plan next when all the tools arrive, COMPLETELY clean and inspect the carb and make the adjustment to the mixture screw,,,,,and hope the bike pops off
That is the ONLY way to do it and get it right.

The pilot jet...
Very, very rare that you need to change a pilot jet unless there has been some very radical reduction of air inlet restriction.
After you see the jet needle that will help me / us to understand why you found a smaller than standard main jet because...
There are some jet kits that call for a reduction in main jet size along with changes to the jet needle / needle jet that makes midrange tuning richer. It is all wrong but they do exist.
S F
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Awsome guys, for now Im charging the battery and leavin the bike in my garage waiting on the hardware, when it gets here and I complete everything I'll give you more info, hopefully with some great news,,,,,

BTW - what voltage does a battery need to really crank a motorcycle properly?, in the scooter world they like around 12.8v or more to get it right
I seen this battery today test at 12.41 and the other day 12.69,,,,,even though the bike started, it seems too low
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
HI guys,
IM finding out more things, guy said he replaced petcock from tank, I pulled it , drained the tank and this is the petcock,,,HOWEVER there is no filter on it like listed in photo, just the metal piece, do I NEED that slip over filter? Also there was no brass fitting filter that goes into the carb,,,,,,it really seems when he "cleaned" it he left peices out, no fuel filters at all,,,,when I pulled the bowl the other day there was vidible sediment in it,,,,,Im really thining this carb is clogged somewhere, I have the brass fitting on order,,,,,
 

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If he changed petcock to a non-OEM type the tall stem type petcock filter may not fit. You need the one in carb; it is not acceptable to have ANY sediment in carb if possible.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Do you guys think that one can clean a carburator to near perfection with carb cleaner, compressed air and a slow meticulus disasemble and inspected of a carburator? OR do you think that these high tech ultra cleaners are that much bettter then what a good tech can do with their hands?

I cant wait, the next 2 days all my hardware should be here, I am gona take apart, blow, clean every nook and cranny of that carb, my gut feeling is its gunked SOMEWHERE in there
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
HI guys,

I have a question about that petcock in post #34, is there a good and easy way to test the petcock to ensure it is pumping gas correcly to the carb and its flowing?

Also, in removing the choke on the VTX, I notice now is seems broken and will not stay out, it just slides in,,,,,in this video the guy has a fix for not even needing it, and many people say the VTX really does not, I live in a hot climate, he states use his fix, throw a 58pj in, and It will all be good, do you think the fix in this video is valid?


TY all
 

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A 58 PJ and hotter climate are a bad combo. hotter makes rich act even richer......The choke has a tension adjustment on it somewhere, to keep it out, you just messed it up taking it apart.
 
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