[jonasx2]

Hi, sometimes when the bike is some hot, under acceptable parameters, the dash board behaves a little crazy, all control leds (gas, oil, temp) blink, and the rpm meter needle, being on idle, moves about 1k, in a one second pattern, after a while, everything turn normal. Whats happening, i think is that i need a new regulator, because it does not throw enough power anymore, i used volt meter, it throws about 13.5v on 5k, while a new regulator should throw around 14.5, right? So what do you think about this? Stator is few months old, while regulator may be several years old, who knows, i got the bike used condition (yamaha fz1 2005). Also im not ignoring that although 13.5v may look not too bad, we have to take in account the current, i mean, amps, it seems that when regulator get hot, they lose capabilities, which is doing it mine, but also the inside parts may have finish their life span, i got no good readings even with a cold bike. Head lights show a turning light pattern, barely noticiable, but telling that theres a voltage drop.

 

[WintrSol]

Is that 13.5V measured directly at the battery terminals?
Before you blame the regulator, you should make sure all the connections are clean, especially the heavy ground cable at the frame/engine from the battery. Also, make sure the fuses are clean and tight in the fuse box - check the connections on the other side of the fuse box, too. I like to give all connectors a scrub with DeoxIt, but there are other good contact cleaners around.

 

[jonasx2]

Yes, i read from the battery terminals, being these the regulator output cables as well, thats why I think regulator is the bad one. I think that the crazy behavior of the controls is caused by power deficit, hope to solve it replacing the regulator. I will also clean those contacts you mentioned, i have no experience with that, most contacts I cleaned were contacts you can easily bring to life with sand paper, fuse contacts dont make it easy cleaning them with this method, will buy a spray supposed to clean them by just spraying them, not sure how good that can be.

 

[SemiFast]

Hi, sometimes when the bike is some hot, under acceptable parameters, the dash board behaves a little crazy, all control leds (gas, oil, temp) blink, and the rpm meter needle, being on idle, moves about 1k, in a one second pattern, after a while, everything turn normal. Whats happening, i think is that i need a new regulator, because it does not throw enough power anymore, i used volt meter, it throws about 13.5v on 5k, while a new regulator should throw around 14.5, right? So what do you think about this? Stator is few months old, while regulator may be several years old, who knows, i got the bike used condition (yamaha fz1 2005). Also im not ignoring that although 13.5v may look not too bad, we have to take in account the current, i mean, amps, it seems that when regulator get hot, they lose capabilities, which is doing it mine, but also the inside parts may have finish their life span, i got no good readings even with a cold bike. Head lights show a turning light pattern, barely noticiable, but telling that theres a voltage drop.

Hi jonasx2,

It's a weak battery.
Tachometer and dash lights going crazy? Weak battery.
13.5 DCV? Charging system is okay but you've got a weak battery.
Lights dimming with turn signals? More noticeable with a weak battery.

My FZ1 did the same thing the last time it was due for a new battery. That was nearly a year ago...

 

[jonasx2]

To semifast: Oh!? Do you think the problem is the battery? Im using a battery that had to deal with a bad stator few time ago, I had to recharged it many times, I once read that these batteries suffer every time they go low, so I better replace it soon, thanks, will change the battery instead of dealing with a new regulator.

 

[WintrSol]

Batteries definitely do not like going lower than about 11.9V, unloaded; it does permanent damage in the form of high internal resistance. Your symptoms could also be high contact resistance, and the bike IS old enough for that. Personally, I would do both: change the battery and clean the connections.

 

[SemiFast]

To semifast: Oh!? Do you think the problem is the battery? Im using a battery that had to deal with a bad stator few time ago, I had to recharged it many times, I once read that these batteries suffer every time they go low, so I better replace it soon, thanks, will change the battery instead of dealing with a new regulator.

Yes.
A bad battery can and will do some strange things.

Batteries definitely do not like going lower than about 11.9V, unloaded; it does permanent damage in the form of high internal resistance. Your symptoms could also be high contact resistance, and the bike IS old enough for that. Personally, I would do both: change the battery and clean the connections.

Yep, that's the way to fix it.
Put some grease on the battery lugs while you're at it to avoid corrosion.

 

[jonasx2]

About cleaning the contacts, would you recommend me cleaning the contacs using some how sand paper sticks? That would be tricky in for example the fuse slots, but not impossible, or theres a liquid that can make same job? i have never use such products.

 

[jonasx2]

edited

 

[WintrSol]

About cleaning the contacts, would you recommend me cleaning the contacs using some how sand paper sticks? That would be tricky in for example the fuse slots, but not impossible, or theres a liquid that can make same job? i have never use such products.

NO SANDPAPER! Most contacts are plated, and you will scratch it off. I usually use a toothbrush, or a brush with similar stiffness, and a contact cleaner; DeoxIt is a good one, but you can usually find good cleaners at a store that still sells electronic parts. Maybe search on line for contact cleaners.

The heavy negative cable will probably have to be unbolted from the frame/engine so you can scrub the surfaces; this connection is often overlooked, and is located where road grime can cause it to corrode. Cleaning it will improve cranking speed, and reduce any dimming in the lights when you apply the brakes or turn signals.

 

[jonasx2]

Oh I see... So far I have only cleaned with sand paper the battery/terminals wich were no plated, definitely will use the cleaner with the other things, thanks.

 

[jonasx2]

I checked battery voltage 3 hours later after using it all day, value is 12.7v, does this say something about battery health? I also located the heavy ground cable, will give it maintenance later, as i mentioned, I have only cleaned the battery terminals, everything seems to be ok, not sure if headlights dim since I have not ride it recently at night, but all dash controls seem stable so far, will anyways try to clean all possible contacts in the short term. Please a help with battery, that value its throwing means thats perfect condition?

 

[SemiFast]

I checked battery voltage 3 hours later after using it all day, value is 12.7v, does this say something about battery health? I also located the heavy ground cable, will give it maintenance later, as i mentioned, I have only cleaned the battery terminals, everything seems to be ok, not sure if headlights dim since I have not ride it recently at night, but all dash controls seem stable so far, will anyways try to clean all possible contacts in the short term. Please a help with battery, that value its throwing means thats perfect condition?

"value is 12.7v, does this say something about battery health?"

No, what you're seeing is only surface voltage.
With the meter connected to the battery (key turned off), read the voltage. The number you get will be surface voltage. I'm guessing that's how you got 12.7 DCV.

Then, with the meter still connected to the battery turn the key on and watch the voltage drop. If voltage drops off more than about a 1/4 of a volt in about 10~15 seconds. That how you tell something about battery health.
If voltage drops significantly more than a 1/4 of a volt right away you can be sure you need a battery.
Activating the lights, fuel pump, ignition system, etc. by turning the key to the on position (meter connected) is an on the bike load test of the battery.
Not high tech but it works. :wink2:

 

[cc rider]

I didnt read through this whole thread but looks like a charging system isssue. First things first: make sure battery is charged and load test and here is a chart to go by to diagnose:

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1091/5694/files/fault-finding-diagram.pdf?235929069374954073

 

[GatorJoe]

I agree with the Battery .. Start There and Test It First easy enough to do ..