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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm trying to remove the engine guard on my 2001 Suzuki. I bought freeway bars I want to put on. The top four bolts are easy enough, but the lower two bolts are behind the exhaust. I've tried using a knuckle connection on my socket wrench to work around the pipe but so far it's been unsuccessful.
I really don't want to remove the exhaust; I was feeling pretty good about just having figured out how to change the oil by myself. I believe there are gaskets under the exhaust connections and I can see that project going south in a hurry. But if that's the only way to get at those bolts, well then I guess I'll have to tackle it. Has anyone who's done that able give me some pointers?
Tire Wheel Fuel tank Vehicle Motor vehicle
 

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Honda VFR1200X (sold), only mod was "The BoosterPlug".
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I'm trying to remove the engine guard on my 2001 Suzuki. I bought freeway bars I want to put on. The top four bolts are easy enough, but the lower two bolts are behind the exhaust. I've tried using a knuckle connection on my socket wrench to work around the pipe but so far it's been unsuccessful.
I really don't want to remove the exhaust; I was feeling pretty good about just having figured out how to change the oil by myself. I believe there are gaskets under the exhaust connections and I can see that project going south in a hurry. But if that's the only way to get at those bolts, well then I guess I'll have to tackle it. Has anyone who's done that able give me some pointers?
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These guys might be able to help:

Suzuki Intruder Owners Club UK
 

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Can't say for sure but if using a separate u-joint wobbler then get a socket of the correct size with the wobble unit built in as part of the socket, often they are shorter to get in where the longer unit won't. And you can always grind a socket shorter to get in easier too.

Sometimes you have to use a brain to get past things like that, I have specialty one-off tools all over the place I've butchered to be used on just one thing like that to avoid much more major work. Will a crowfoot work?

Take the Ford Contour I have, right pass side lower control arm off in 30 minutes. The left side takes over EIGHT HOURS in book time due to ATX coming low enough to not be able to loosen and remove the attaching LCA bolts on driver side. When trans blew up and out I simply loosened the two big bolts and flipped them upside down, making the driver side now take the same 30 minutes to get off the other side does. How you save well over $1000 on a driver side LCA change, you have to remove the trans mounts and entire perimeter frame under the engine/trans comes off with engine suspended in the air if those two bolts are not flipped.

You just have to be smarter than the vehicle.
 

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I'd definitely go for alternate tools/adapters before taking the header off; a lot of broken studs in engines that old, especially the ones that hold the header.
Did the person who installed that bolt install it from the header side, so the header HAS to move? It's been awhile since I mounted the bar to my VS800, and no longer have it, but don't recall removing the header to install it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yeah, i was trying to do it with the tools I have on hand. The bolt on the left side has an allen head on it and the bolt on the right has a regular nut. The clearance for the nut is very tight; I was watching Vice Grip Garage (which is the best you tube channel ever) and he talked about grinding down a socket to make the wall thin, so I might try that to see if I can get it seated. Also looking at offset wrenches and a low profile driver, so it looks like my expensive new hobby is going to cost a little more. I can't figure out what size it wants for the allen bolt because the socket head hits the exhaust before the allen part fits into the bolt so I'll have to find something for that too. I can't grind those down because I borrowed them from my brother.
I was assuming that the motor guard was original equipment on the bike, but I really don't know.
 

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Anybody use a ball-end allen wrench tip? I used to make them up on a bench grinder in seconds for printing press use and they can drive or loosen an allen bolt at up to a 30 degree angle. Printing presses are well known for having buried hard to get to allens in bad places.

 

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Just remember there is metal removed to make the ball so they won't take the torque that an Allen head wrench would normally take. Don't ask how I know.
 

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You can get a good-enough Allen wrench at Harbor Freight, if any near you stock metric sizes. Or, you can get the SAE size a bit larger and grind the sides down some to make it fit, after you shorten it to get into the bolt. I've got a 12mm Allen made from a 1/2" one, from when there was no internet, and metric was not available in my area. If you do shorten one, make sure there is a bit of free space behind it, so the bolt can back up a bit.
 

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A good black oxide allen is by nature grade 8 material and I may have broken a couple balls over the years out of countless times using them. The little ones can break but bigger will not unless clearly abused. When they break the end simply falls free to not get stuck in anything.
 
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