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Clutch was slipping when I got my 96 Suzuki Intruder VS80GL. So replaced clutch plates and springs. All the master and slave cyl pistons and springs. Was fine but when I goy to around 15 miles started to slip again. Bleed system several times (no air in system) still slips. Took to Suzuki dealership, they flashed system and re bleed. But they did not have answer.. So I have to get off bike attach clear tube and crack bleed screw to release pressure. No air bubbles. works find for another 15 miles then slips again. . running with chrome side cover removed to get air flow over slave cyl.

Is it heat from engine ? Dot 4 should be good for 310 degrees.

Anyone had this issue and was able to fix. Please help.
 

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Take a fine wire from a metal brush and clean out the tiny holes in the bottom of the reservoir; the smaller one is the pressure release, and is so tiny, really small bits of stuff clog it. You should consider replacing the clutch (and brake) lines, as that is likely the source of the bits of stuff in the fluid. Suzuki recommends replacing after seven years.
 

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Thanks. I'll try that. Found the large hole about 1/16" but not a very small one. Must be really small.
Took clutch line to Motion Industries and they tested it and said was 100% good. Bike has done less then 5,000 miles even thou 19 years old.
 

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It the clutch fluid isn't changed often enough, it can make little congealed flakes, too; recommended is no longer than two years between changes.
 

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Took clutch line to Motion Industries and they tested it and said was 100% good.
I deal with Motion all the time, they tested your hose for leaks. The problem is hydraulic hoses deteriorate from the inside and their testing will not show that. Personally I would replace the clutch and brake hoses.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Intruder VS800GL clutch issue sloved

Thanks to WintrSol for his help. He gets the prize for "know it all". It was the very small hole in the master cyl body that was blocked so pressure build up slipped the clutch after riding for a few miles. As bike had been stored for many years the old hydraulic fluid had blocked pin hole. Will go test . . ride baby ride.
 

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WintrSol has a super-high rate of being correct on where the problem lies. There may be psychic abilities involved, but that's just a rumor at this point and has not been confirmed.
 

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I deal with Motion all the time, they tested your hose for leaks. The problem is hydraulic hoses deteriorate from the inside and their testing will not show that. Personally I would replace the clutch and brake hoses.
Sounds accurate, from here. I replaced mine when they were 6 years old, just because. I got the Teflon-lined, stainless version, which last a bit longer.
 
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I have until today, had the very same problem. I replaced the clutch plates, springs, thermostat, heat sensor, slave rubbers, master rubbers, fluid...and all to no avail. However. this morning someone asked me what oil I use. I told them it was castrol GTX 10/40. They were quick to inform me that this is car oil and contains anti-friction ingredients which, in effect, when the oil is hot, prevent friction on the plates. So, according to their instructions, I have taken the plates out and cleaned them off with brake cleaner, changed the filter and refilled with 'Silkolene 20/50 non synthetic mineral based oil'. I'll leave the gasket to dry overnight and try it tomorrow. I'll let you know what happens.
 

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Oooo good thread. The last time I rode my 2000 Marauder, which I'm guessing has similar components, my clutch started slipping. There is 12kish miles on the bike. I'm trying to clean it up a little before selling, so these are good things to know to check on. I was REALLY not wanting to replace plates.
 

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Goodnight to know about the small pin holes and the interior degradation of the clutch cable as I'll be restoring an intruder here soon!
 

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I have until today, had the very same problem. I replaced the clutch plates, springs, thermostat, heat sensor, slave rubbers, master rubbers, fluid...and all to no avail. However. this morning someone asked me what oil I use. I told them it was castrol GTX 10/40. They were quick to inform me that this is car oil and contains anti-friction ingredients which, in effect, when the oil is hot, prevent friction on the plates. So, according to their instructions, I have taken the plates out and cleaned them off with brake cleaner, changed the filter and refilled with 'Silkolene 20/50 non synthetic mineral based oil'. I'll leave the gasket to dry overnight and try it tomorrow. I'll let you know what happens.
I always recommend a dedicated motorcycle oil. Especially one that claims it is suitable for wet clutch use. Synthetic or Dino oil, so long as it's designated ok for wet clutch use.
 
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