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Recently moved to Mesa, AZ from San Francisco. When we lived in Santa Barbara, there was
great Irish pub Dargan's that had all traditional pub foods: bangers & mash, bubbles and squeak, sheperd's pie, Irish breakfast with fried tomatoes, farls, soda bread, corned-beef boxty, etc... yummmy....

Cajun unruly snausages are great for lunch & dinners. Just doesn't have that traditional bangers dry and mild flavour from blending with soy. I may just need to start making my own. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
If that is what you like , Have at it . Just not my style ...or taste . I'm not into anything fancy ....Or weird .... LOL ....
haha loving the humour fellas, cut off the offending wires heres what I've ended up with. Looking down at the plug front left is clutch switch front right is starter switch wire this was soldered further back into the yellow and red wire.The back thicker gauge wires are back left ignition switch wire brown or green can't really tell colour blind and although you can't really see it the back right red and white wire runs into the regulator recitifier. Clutch switch wire was quite loose in the plug but doubt it had any effect on the bike not turning over but you never know. I'll check over continuity with these wires again and check for power, at this rate yeah I'll need you both over here to get it going ha. Other image is of new block I've bought to replace it along with crimps I know I've cut the wires short but I've got a spare loom somewhere I'll solder the wires together and extend them into the plug. Looking for sum decent heat shrink to cover the soldered joints suppose ebay will have them is it 12 or 16 gauge I need can never remember Hood Automotive lighting Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive design
anyone have a link.
Automotive lighting Hood Bumper Motor vehicle Automotive design
Hood Automotive lighting Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive design
Automotive lighting Hood Bumper Motor vehicle Automotive design

Hood Automotive lighting Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive design
Hood Automotive lighting Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive design
 

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Anything 50 cc up to 450 cc dirt , Streeters from 150 cc scooter up to Honda Shadow . In stock ..
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haha loving the humour fellas, cut off the offending wires heres what I've ended up with. Looking down at the plug front left is clutch switch front right is starter switch wire this was soldered further back into the yellow and red wire.The back thicker gauge wires are back left ignition switch wire brown or green can't really tell colour blind and although you can't really see it the back right red and white wire runs into the regulator recitifier. Clutch switch wire was quite loose in the plug but doubt it had any effect on the bike not turning over but you never know. I'll check over continuity with these wires again and check for power, at this rate yeah I'll need you both over here to get it going ha. Other image is of new block I've bought to replace it along with crimps I know I've cut the wires short but I've got a spare loom somewhere I'll solder the wires together and extend them into the plug. Looking for sum decent heat shrink to cover the soldered joints suppose ebay will have them is it 12 or 16 gauge I need can never remember View attachment 76257 anyone have a link. View attachment 76258 View attachment 76257 View attachment 76258
View attachment 76257 View attachment 76257
Smaller number , bigger wire .... Like shotguns ....
 

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haha loving the humour fellas, cut off the offending wires heres what I've ended up with. Looking down at the plug front left is clutch switch front right is starter switch wire this was soldered further back into the yellow and red wire.The back thicker gauge wires are back left ignition switch wire brown or green can't really tell colour blind and although you can't really see it the back right red and white wire runs into the regulator recitifier. Clutch switch wire was quite loose in the plug but doubt it had any effect on the bike not turning over but you never know.
hehe... my greatest fear is starving to death, so I always make sure there's plenty of foods around. :)

Gas Magenta Font Fashion accessory Metal


I suspect wires are incorrectly connected to starter-solenoid terminals anyway, so we'll start from complete unknowns. Post photo of top-view of your starter-solenoid so we can test it and verify pin-outs. Since you have 2, we'll test them both. Post photo of them side-by-wide like I did earlier.

You'll need about 2x10cm segment of 1.6mm/14awg wire and 2x10cm of 1.0mm/18awg wire to crimp to new coated terminals and to replace segment of rat's nest that's still attached to harness. Do you have matching W-crimper die for those new terminals? We want them to look like this in end, then dab little bit of solder to seal wire-ends from moisture.



Here's assortment of heat-shink tubings:
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
hehe... my greatest fear is starving to death, so I always make sure there's plenty of foods around. :)

View attachment 76271

I suspect wires are incorrectly connected to starter-solenoid terminals anyway, so we'll start from complete unknowns. Post photo of top-view of your starter-solenoid so we can test it and verify pin-outs. Since you have 2, we'll test them both. Post photo of them side-by-wide like I did earlier.

You'll need about 2x10cm segment of 1.6mm/14awg wire and 2x10cm of 1.0mm/18awg wire to crimp to new coated terminals and to replace segment of rat's nest that's still attached to harness. Do you have matching W-crimper die for those new terminals? We want them to look like this in end, then dab little bit of solder to seal wire-ends from moisture.



Here's assortment of heat-shink tubings:
Just waiting for some heat shrink to turn up before I connect any wiring I've just soldered the wires together for now like this, no i dont have any w crimper just extended the starter switch wire yellow and red the grey/green clutch wire for now so it reaches the new connector block ill add some heat shrink over this when it turns up ive checked continuity on both of these and there fine. While am waiting for the tubing noticed this as well this morning!!!! Valve stem on front tyre has split at the join is there any fix for this without removing the tyre? i think its a tubeless tyre.
Tire Automotive tire Hood Motor vehicle Bumper

Circuit component Electrical wiring Gas Cable Electrical supply
 

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Yes , but it's a PITA . you have to break sidewall loose from rim , snake it through , then use a threaded core remover tool to install ....
 

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Just waiting for some heat shrink to turn up before I connect any wiring I've just soldered the wires together for now like this, no i dont have any w crimper just extended the starter switch wire yellow and red the grey/green clutch wire for now so it reaches the new connector block ill add some heat shrink over this when it turns up ive checked continuity on both of these and there fine. While am waiting for the tubing noticed this as well this morning!!!! Valve stem on front tyre has split at the join is there any fix for this without removing the tyre? i think its a tubeless tyre. View attachment 76303
View attachment 76302
Remember to test system before adding shrink tubing ....
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
Yes , but it's a PITA . you have to break sidewall loose from rim , snake it through , then use a threaded core remover tool to install ....
OK fully deflate tyre and get sum tyre levers on it and bend valve round rim so it's inside out and accessible the stem that is? What's a PITA for sum one who doesn't know? Will ebay have threaded core remover tool to install it? Isn't there any type of glue or adhesive that could be used on it just for a temporary fix.
 

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OK fully deflate tyre and get sum tyre levers on it and bend valve round rim so it's inside out and accessible the stem that is? What's a PITA for sum one who doesn't know? Will ebay have threaded core remover tool to install it? Isn't there any type of glue or adhesive that could be used on it just for a temporary fix.
That is not repairable . To suggest it is not a good idea. Lives at stake here ..., core tools available at any auto parts store , along with the valve assembly .... Please think safety before advising glue , or duct tape to repair anything ... Hillbilly hacks are dangerous ideas ..,
 

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I don't know where your thinking is going ,..... It's replacing a tire valve assembly , not a complete tire . It can be done , on or off bike . Off bike is easier ...,
Don't need an arguement , Been repairing bikes , tires for over 60 yrs .. ,
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
I don't know where your thinking is going ,..... It's replacing a tire valve assembly , not a complete tire . It can be done , on or off bike . Off bike is easier ...,
Don't need an arguement , Been repairing bikes , tires for over 60 yrs .. ,
You said its not repairable, not arguing with you just simply want to know if it can be done and how to do it, as I've never had to replace a tyre valve before today.
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·

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Uh... those are "adapters" that goes on top of existing and working valve-stems. Too many areas where leaks can occur. And longer total length will result in higher leverage that will wear out valve-stems quickly. Better to just get angled valve-stems from start and install them in rim to replace broken ones.

Amazon UK - 4 pcs 90-degree valve-stems

 
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Just waiting for some heat shrink to turn up before I connect any wiring I've just soldered the wires together for now like this, no i dont have any w crimper just extended the starter switch wire yellow and red the grey/green clutch wire for now so it reaches the new connector block ill add some heat shrink over this when it turns up ive checked continuity on both of these and there fine. While am waiting for the tubing noticed this as well this morning!!!!

View attachment 76302
That looks like decent repair for now. Without crimpers, you can fold over terminals where it clamps over wire-ends with pliers and squeeze. Then solder. You didn't re-use old terminals for solenoid-connector did you?

Also did you do this?



Also trace 2 black-wires and see where they end up. These are non-standard connections and should NOT be directly connected to output wire of solenoid-connector. Aftermarket accessories such as fog-lights or heated-grips should be have their own separate wiring-circuit directly connected to battery (with fuses). Factory harness should NEVER, EVER be modified, no benefit or reason to do so whatsoever, nada, zilch! Problems with wiring ALWAYS start with modifying harness.
 

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Ok, let's verify solenoid connector-pinouts matches wiring. We can re-pin connector as necessary so functions match.



Set meter to lowest resistance-scale of 200ohms (means it will measure resistance from 0 to 200 ohms max).. Do baseline reading by connecting probes together. This number should be subtracted from future readings to get true resistance without offset. Measure resistance (ohms) between these terminals:

B to I (battery terminal to fuse-input), ohms = ???
I to O, ohms = ???
O to 1, ohms = ???
O to 3, ohms = ???
1 to 2, ohms = ???
3 to 4, ohms = ???
 

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Got disturbing report that neutral-light turns ON when wire is unplugged from neutral-switch.

Someone re-wired neutral-light circuit to be powered instead of grounded. This would certainly interfere and disable starter-solenoid which is expecting a ground signal from switch.

We'll have to do some further wire-tracing and testing to figure out how they re-wired neutral-switch circuit...
 

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place holder... Will expand on this after reviewing wiring-diagram...

TRACE AND TEST SIDESTAND-SWITCH CIRCUIT

TRACE AND TEST CLUTCH-SWITCH CIRCUIT

TRACE AND TEST NEUTRAL-SWITCH CIRCUIT
 
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