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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Test light . 1 large positive ... , push button pushed ,. Light on small wire ., And it then energizes the other large post ..... going to starter ....
 OK in the image the B terminal is on the right correct? M is to the left supplied with constant voltage from the battery correct? When pressing the starter switch M terminal closes the contacts by the coil inside the solenoid and transfers it to B terminal which in turn spins the starter motor and cranks your engine over. Except nothing is happening when am pressing the starter switch no power is supplied to the B terminal. U might notice the yellow and red wire to the back of the solenoid it's this wire you have mentioned when pressing the starter switch should supply voltage when pressed. The other wire a black and white wire running from the starter switch also runs into the back of the solenoid its this that's supplied with constant voltage.
 

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CB125T, EX250 commuter, Ninja 250 racebike, VF500F, CBR600RR, VFR750F
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B-terminal should have constant power as it's directly connected to +battery terminal
yel/red wire from start-button should only have power when button is pressed.
Be careful of B and M terminal orientation. They can be reversed on different solenoids. This had caused many months of head-scratching for many people. :p
 OK in the image the B terminal is on the right correct? M is to the left supplied with constant voltage from the battery correct?
No, left vs. right doesn't make one bit of difference. What matters is B or M. You got it reversed:

(B) terminal -> (B)attery +positive
(M) terminal -> Starter (M)otor

Here's show starter-circuit works (colours for different bike, connections same):

  • power directly from battery goes to (B) terminal of starter-soleniod
  • which is directly connected to fuse
  • output of fuse goes to ignition-switch
  • power leaves ignition-switch and goes through start/stop switch
  • then to start-button
  • when start-button pressed, it sends power to activation terminal of starter-solenoid
  • starter solenoid contacts inside connects (B) to (M)motor terminal
  • power goes to starter motor

Here's what happens when you have terminals reversed:

  • power from battery goes to (M) terminal and stops, no other connections from there
  • no power on (B) terminal
  • no power on main-fuse terminals
  • no power going into or out of ignition-switch
  • no power to start/stop switch or start-button
  • no power to starter-solenoid activation-terminal when pushing start-buttong.

Easy way to figure this out is to just measure voltage as you go:

1. measure voltage going into (B)-terminal:


2. measure voltage going into input terminal of main fuse


3. measure voltage going out of main fuse


Check your work at each stage and make sure it's correct before moving onto next. Much, much easier to catch mistakes and fix. Otherwise, when everything's together, you'd have no idea what's wrong and where, then have to tear it all apart again.
 

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Quelle horreur!!! No wonder you've got starting problems!!!



This starter-solenoid connector has been replaced. Have you verified pin-outs match factory configuration precisely?

Also cover up all those exposed joints with adhesive heat-shrink wrap! Otherwise you'll have shorts and blowing fuses constantly.

Personally, I would cut all that out and replace with fresh wiring. No multiple segments of wire joined together! One joint only with new connector: Honda CBR1000 replacement starter solenoid connector plug CBR 1000 | eBay

Whenever replacing anything, it's best to improve on Honda's specs to not have same failures they did. Use of crimped-only bare-brass connectors is what causes terminals to corrode over time, increase resistance and burn up (see photo above). Best to replace with better parts than factory. Use tin-coated connectors, crimped AND soldered. Covered with adhesive heat-shrink tubing for corrosion resistance. This is done in pro-motorsports (MotoGP & Formulae 1), aerospace and military applications for performance, durability and reliability.

 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
No, left vs. right doesn't make one bit of difference. What matters is B or M. You got it reversed:

(B) terminal -> (B)attery +positive
(M) terminal -> Starter (M)otor

Here's show starter-circuit works (colours for different bike, connections same):

  • power directly from battery goes to (B) terminal of starter-soleniod
  • which is directly connected to fuse
  • output of fuse goes to ignition-switch
  • power leaves ignition-switch and goes through start/stop switch
  • then to start-button
  • when start-button pressed, it sends power to activation terminal of starter-solenoid
  • starter solenoid contacts inside connects (B) to (M)motor terminal
  • power goes to starter motor

Here's what happens when you have terminals reversed:

  • power from battery goes to (M) terminal and stops, no other connections from there
  • no power on (B) terminal
  • no power on main-fuse terminals
  • no power going into or out of ignition-switch
  • no power to start/stop switch or start-button
  • no power to starter-solenoid activation-terminal when pushing start-buttong.

Easy way to figure this out is to just measure voltage as you go:

1. measure voltage going into (B)-terminal:


2. measure voltage going into input terminal of main fuse


3. measure voltage going out of main fuse


Check your work at each stage and make sure it's correct before moving onto next. Much, much easier to catch mistakes and fix. Otherwise, when everything's together, you'd have no idea what's wrong and where, then have to tear it all apart again.
OK I've come back to the bike again and made sure everything is correctly wired up, done what u said in the photos and here's the results but still the engine will not turn over.

Measuring instrument Gadget Gauge Automotive lighting Speedometer

In the above picture power to terminal
Automotive lighting Gauge Speedometer Measuring instrument Automotive exterior

Power to input fuse.
Automotive lighting Speedometer Gauge Gadget Motor vehicle

And power to out put fuse, terminals are correct way around this time as all lights to dash are on when you swap the wires around they are not. Confirmed this as well with a test light all powers up but when pressing starter button nothings happening, I've had the multimeter the other side of the terminal and when pressing on the starter button am getting no voltage transferring across what so ever. So removed the solenoid and jumped 12volts directly to it and it clicks just fine. Measuring instrument Gadget Gauge Automotive lighting Speedometer
Automotive lighting Gauge Speedometer Measuring instrument Automotive exterior
Automotive lighting Speedometer Gauge Gadget Motor vehicle
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Don't Make me come over there ......LOL...
Frustrating I know, but it's definitely not the starter solenoid, I certainly don't doubt your knowledge but it's not the solenoid something is causing the switch to ground out when am pressing it's all I can think of at the moment. I'll have to go through the loom again at some point it's probably something I've done in the past with the wiring, I remember B4 I put it away last winter I put a new flasher relay on it as I was having trouble with the indicators maybe I've wired it wrong although the indicators are working correctly.
 

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This is your problem:

Something in that rat's nest is not connected properly.
...but it's not the solenoid something is causing the switch to ground out when am pressing it's all I can think of at the moment.
Of course! Any one of those 18 bare wire splice-joints going to solenoid connector grounding out will prevent activation signal from start-button from reaching solenoid. And most likely, wires aren't in correct positions in connector anyway.

You need to repair and replace this mess!!! Bike worked perfectly fine when leaving showroom floor! It will again when you restore wiring back to 100% OEM stock configuration. Order replacement solenoid connector pigtail here: Amazon - Starter Solenoid Pigtail. In meantime, we'll hack off that abomination of wiring and have you test solenoid to determine which terminal fits which function:
  • +12v output from fuse
  • +12v output from fuse
  • ground for solenoid trigger coil
  • +12v activation trigger from start button
These are most likely NOT connected to proper terminals of solenoid connector. As shown. earlier with two solenoids having B & M terminals reversed, 4 terminals of activation-connector can also be arranged differently.

Also review proper way to splice wires. Will have mechanical strength from western-union/linesman knot, electrical conductivity from solder and long-term corrosion resistance from adhesive heat-shrink tubing. Honda had pretty marginal wiring from factory, don't make it worse and cause extra trouble for yourself.


BTW - what kind of battery do you have that's putting out 14.70v ???
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Hi yeah thanks I agree somethings going on with the wiring there in the rats nest:LOL:. Battery had just been on charge that's why I think voltage is high and its brand new. Will drag out the wiring diagram and buy this pigtail and see how I get on.
 

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Ok, this is great! Fairly standard configuration of starter-solenoid. We'll make sure your replacement connector matches diagram.

For now, cut off old rat's nest at snip-points specified.
  • red wire
  • red/white wire
  • yellow/red wire
  • green/red wire


Also trace 2 black-wires and see where they end up. These are non-standard connections and should NOT be directly connected to output wire of solenoid-connector. Aftermarket accessories such as fog-lights or heated-grips should be have their own separate wiring-circuit directly connected to battery (with fuses). Factory harness should NEVER, EVER be modified, no benefit or reason to do so whatsoever, nada, zilch! Problems with wiring ALWAYS start with modifying harness.
 

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Once you've got rat's nest clipped off, remove starter-solenoid and take heads-on photo like this. Post photo here.

We will be testing solenoid's terminals to determine its pinouts:
  • input/output terminals
  • activation terminal
  • ground terminal
To make sure we have replacement pigtail spliced into proper wire on harness.
 

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Ok will do just in the process of moving house but i will upload a screenshot of the haynes diagram am working from. I dont think this particular Cb500 was sold in the states it was more for the European market but it shouldn't matter.
Get rid of that dammed haynes manual ... Pay attention .. , If you have power to switch , on handlebar , and it does not get back to solenoid , There's your problem ..., Remember that when you push button , it also cuts power to headlight .....,
 

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Once you've got rat's nest clipped off, remove starter-solenoid and take heads-on photo like this.


We will be testing solenoid's terminals to determine its pinouts:

  • input/output terminals
  • activation terminal
  • ground terminal

To make sure we have replacement pigtail spliced into proper wire on harness.
Hey , Danno , we may have to go over there ....., I'm sure he'll pay our gas .....,
 

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Hey , Danno , we may have to go over there ....., I'm sure he'll pay our gas .....,
or petrol as they say.... My wife loves Irish fry-up breakfast, can't find many pubs offering it here.... We can make it ourselves, but can't find bangers or blood-pudding snausages anywhere...
 
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