possibly battery, confirm with measurements:

1. measure battery power with everything OFF, VOLTS=???
2. measure battery power during cranking, VOLTS=???

 

After that, yes, you can bypass the clutch safety switch. There should be a plug on the end of the small harness that fits to the switch, with blade type sockets; just take a short bit of solid wire that will fit snugly into those sockets, and tape it in place. If that works, the switch likely just needs cleaning, if you're up to the task.

 

Well done that man! Had a double ended terminal, tried that, started first time. Thanks to all kind souls advice. And yeah, off trekking to the shop so they can fix it properly. But yay! Back on the road.

 

Don't get distracted by clutch-switch, it's fine. Both start-button and clutch-switch are in series and both must be operational to activate starter-solenoid. IF one or other is defective, you'd get zero action whatsoever, no click, no lights dimming, nothin'. Since you get lights dimming when pushing start-button (activating starter solenoid), both switches are working. Problem is dead battery.

Fact that lights dim shows that only problem is dead battery. ALL you need to do to verify bunk battery is this test. Gets you answer in less than 5-minutes and you can be on way to fix bike.

1. measure battery power with everything OFF, VOLTS=???
2. measure battery power during cranking, VOLTS=???

For reference of "normal" and "working" battery, here's my battery-voltage on VFR after 4-months winter storage (lithium, no battery-tender needed).

Turn on key for 10s and wait for pump to prime carbs. Push start, spins for 2-revolution and >VRRROOom<

Some related posts with people resistant to measuring their battery. As soon as they do it, they find problem and bike is fixed in 5-minutes. Or less in many cases. Make note of test and measured numbers.

https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=368961 - jumpstart test confirmed
"Hmmm... doesn't feel like battery." - batteries have feelings???

https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=335199 - 13.6v
"So I checked the voltage when starting and the battery dropped to 2 volts."

https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=74813
"There is power because all the lights come on but as soon as i press the starter button
it clicks and then the power goes away for a minute or two"

https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=61661 - charging fixed

https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=113945
" Then I noticed ALL the indicator lights were dead."

https://www.motorcycleforum.com/threads/battery-problem.95559/#post-634109

https://www.motorcycleforum.com/threads/new-battery.122626 - 14.21v

https://www.motorcycleforum.com/threads/starting-problems.80408/#post-485100
"well i charged the battery and shes ok now, thank god"

https://www.mvagusta.net/threads/bi.../threads/bike-wont-start-battery-voltage-12-52-really-not-enough-voltage.41789/

Numbers tells exactly what's wrong and how to fix it in less than 5-minutes. I can see trend with voltage-drop getting larger and larger as battery wears out and I can replace before it leaves me stranded. I've had case of bad battery that starts bike fine to go to filing station*. After adding petrol, I get ready to go, push start-button >CLICK<, lights dim, nothin'... Similar to what you were experiencing earlier. These are signs of battery going downhill...

PS It was working well before (with an occasional lack of engagement), yesterday fine, but today nada.

----------------------------------
*There was conspiracy theory that this filling-station had dark-tech that was killing batteries. Many, many people reported that their batteries died right after filling tank there. There was cell tower across street but research is still out on them contributing to EMF related diseases. Battery is high-power DC device, I doubt cell tower can hurt them. Lack of measured quantitative data can lead to all sorts of wild theories on cause & effect.

I asked attendants of station if they noticed any larger rate of moto batteries dying than autos, which they couldn't say one way or other. Just batteries dying for both autos and motos. Looking on map and at online meet schedule, I suspect real cause was higher-rates of motos stopping there to meet up for rides than other stations. It was just at edge of town right before popular mountain twisties. It had plenty of space for waiting motos. Low cost of petrol relative to other stations in town. With more quantitative data such as numbers of riders per day, I'm sure trend would appear to pinpoint actual cause.

Again, gather quantitative numerical data and post them here. Is easiest and fastest way to fix electrical problems.

 

Poor mans load test, hook up volt meter to battery, ignition on hit starter, what is your voltage ? If 9.5 volts and dropping replace battery

 

Poor mans load test, hook up volt meter to battery, ignition on hit starter, what is your voltage ? If 9.5 volts and dropping replace battery

There is a time / voltage drop general spec that works well for a quick battery check when testing as above. More times than not this simple load test will detect a battery problem straight away...

S F

 

Sometimes, bad battery is just symptom or side-effect of real problem. So replacing it might result in only temporary fix. Dead/weakened battery may be caused by failed charging system, either RR or stator. Do "The Drill" test of charging system to verify it's sending out sufficient power to recharge battery fully.

We had guy on here couple years ago where he had replaced his battery 7 TIMES!!! Wasn't battery's fault, just that charging system was defective.

 

Don't forget the kick stand switch.

Another, possibly dumb, question. Is the bike in neutral and are you pulling the clutch in when starting?

But over all I'd start by getting a load test on the battery. Free at any auto parts store if you don't have a meter.

 

I thought that, maybe, like newer Suzukis, the headlight power passed through the start switch. Looking at the diagram, I see I was mistaken. Battery or battery cables all the way. Voltage measured directly on the terminals will tell you which. If the battery cables are clean and tight, then replace the battery, as you've already done the load test.

Also, no kick stand safety switch on this model, either. Too bad, as I find one handy for stopping on a hill, so I can park in gear.

 

Yeah, Hondas have DPST start-button that cuts off headlights, really convenient for preserving maximum power for starter and ignition. Problem is all power for headlights goes through start-button. And flexing of wires from pushing button frequently breaks them or solder-joints on terminals within. Personally, I like Kawasaki's system best with delayed headlight relay that's activated only when engine's spinning.

 

My Suzuki S50 also switched the headlight off when the button was pressed. Someone on the Valkyrie forum made 'smart switches' for the '97 and up series, which plugged into the harness, and switched the lights, saving the contacts in the start switch from burning. I didn't have the Suzi long enough for that to be a problem, but it was probably going to happen with age.

 

Make sure they load-test battery while you're there.