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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bought a Rieju RS3 50 brand-new (I'm a young rider, it's the biggest displacement bike I could get), and I seem to have quite a few problems with the gearbox. The first problem is that there is just lots of clunking noise when going between gears, and not only when going from neutral to first gear. Another thing is, sometimes you need lots amounts of force on the shift lever to shift and sometimes you need little force, it's very unpredictable basically. The biggest problem I noticed happens whenever going to a stop. I shift to first gear, clutch-in, and I come to stop, and what happens is that I can't raise the shift lever to go into neutral - it's stuck! The fix for this is very random - sometimes just turning off the engine and starting it again fixes it, but sometimes I need to drive a little in first gear before I can shift into neutral. The neutral gear is very jumpy in general, you sometimes need to be extremely gentle when shifting, or it will shift into second, and sometimes it's fairly easy to shift into neutral. The last problem I noticed (although I'm not sure if it's even a problem) is that when riding, the revs just quickly rose up for a brief moment, as if I pressed the clutch and throttled the engine. This has happened two times. I'm not sure what to think of this, is this even normal? What do you think?
 

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operation of the clutch has absolutely zero to do with shifting the gearbox on a mc with constant mesh trans

look at shifting linkage first it must be cklose to a 90m degree moment at the link rod ends
with the bike on centerstand yiou can go thru the gears but only if you for instance rotate the wheel so the shafts are in motion
and then of course if the engine is not running the clutch needs to be disengaged
or not but once a gear is selected wheel will not rotate
 

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selecting nuetral at a stop engine running does require a completly diserngaged clutch
my comment on clutch in regards to shifting is when rolling down the road
you may have warped plates
but get a factory service manual and understand and follow the clutch adjustement procedure
servicing the clutch is an easy job with a manual
 

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Only thing regarding the clutch in the manual is the adjustment of the clutch lever tension. I assume this has nothing to do my with my issues, right?
Try this: engine off, put the bike in gear (you may have to roll the bike a bit to get it to shift). Then, squeeze the clutch lever all the way and try to roll the bike. If it feels like you have a brake on, even just a little, the clutch isn't releasing all the way. There should be just a small amount of motion in the lever before you feel it get tight against the clutch release; too much, and the clutch drags on the transmission, causing hard shifts, too little, and the engine revs but the bike doesn't speed up because the clutch is slipping.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
If it's brand new take it back to the dealer. Should be under warranty, no?
+1
Ask if you can see how they adjust it, if that is what it needs. Sometimes, it's just easier to watch, if they let you, instead of read about simple things like clutch adjustment.
Yeah, I'm probably gonna do that. Just wanted to see if these problems are something every bike has, or if there's something wrong with my bike. I have no prior experience with motorcycles, so yeah. Only annoyance is that the dealership is 200 km away...
 

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Yeah, I'm probably gonna do that. Just wanted to see if these problems are something every bike has, or if there's something wrong with my bike. I have no prior experience with motorcycles, so yeah. Only annoyance is that the dealership is 200 km away...
The stranded cables will stretch a bit, as they break in; I'm assuming your clutch is cable operated, not hydraulic. So, there is usually some adjustment needed, but the stretching ends soon enough. Same goes for throttle cables; many bikes with multiple carbs need the carbs synchronized after break-in, too. If you have only one, you may notice more rotation in the grip before it revs.
 
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