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Discussion Starter #1
After rebuilding the carbs I decided to change the oil since I just got the bike and have no idea when the last time it was changed, I also suspect there could be gas in the oil considering the state of the carbs before cleaning. Sure enough the oil had gas in it. just to be sure It wasn't something I caused I pulled the carbs out just a little bit from the boots and noticed fresh gas inside the boots as well as inside the air box (only about a table spoon worth in the air box). while looking at the carbs as they sit in the same position as they would be when installed on the bike no gas seems to leak, I went head and installed them and checked an hour later still not leaking gas. This is good! So I'm going to go ahead and add the new oil.

I'm guessing its happening while its running. Before draining the oil I was testing the bike because I cleaned and re gapped the spark plugs a couple of days ago and hadn't tested it yet, I also wanted to warm her up before draining the oil. One thing I noticed while revving the engine was that if I strike it real fast there would be a huge hesitation and would struggle for the first couple of seconds, some times almost dying, didn't seem to have any problem once past 2 or 3 thousand RPM or if I started out slow like you would do when accelerating slowly. If you know what would cause that let me know, but for now I guess my main question is what could cause gas to get into the oil/air box when running?
 

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Fuel in the boot and air cleaner? Carb float valve is either leaking, or the float is set too high (or both). Too much fuel would cause your symptoms, so take the bowls off and make sure the float valves close at the correct height.

There is a 'wet' test for the carbs on my Intruder, which involves a clear tube on the bowl drain, turned up alongside the carb; with the drain open, the fuel should rise to a set point. Look in your manual to see if you have a similar test for yours, as it is better at revealing float problems than the static float height setting.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
I just took the carb off again after letting it sit another 30 minutes and didn't see any gas, I then bumped it a little bit and carb number 3 is definitely now leaking gas out the hole where the air and gas mixture goes into the engine. I'm guessing I need to take that one apart again. what do you guys think, the float needle?

after rebuilding the carbs I took a lot of extra time in making sure the floats were set to the right height. Needles seemed to be good, but in order to get the seating's out I had to use a needle nose plier and scratched the surface, maybe the needle is sticking.
 

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Hawaholic, his profile says a 750 Katana, so that's probably it.

deanspeed, you could have a sticking or bad float needle, or a sinking float. Float needles show wear by developing a ring in the cone that goes into the seat; when that ring is deep enough, the needle begins to stick. Hollow floats can get tiny holes or cracks, and let fuel in; foam floats can begin to soak up fuel. In both cases, they will feel heaver than normal.
 

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Hawaholic, his profile says a 750 Katana, so that's probably it.

deanspeed, you could have a sticking or bad float needle, or a sinking float. Float needles show wear by developing a ring in the cone that goes into the seat; when that ring is deep enough, the needle begins to stick. Hollow floats can get tiny holes or cracks, and let fuel in; foam floats can begin to soak up fuel. In both cases, they will feel heaver than normal.
Learn something new every day! I never thought to go look at his profile :)
 

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In any newly purchased bike, I always replace the float needles and seat as a matter of routine. Cheap and easy to do,and it eliminates one variable.

Just as a reminder,if you have to go back in to the carb to re-clean it, always keep the needles matched to the seats they were previously matched to.

When your bike is sitting,remember to shut off the petcock -- or some petcocks shut down automatically via a vacuum assist that does not let gas run through unless the bike is running. If so,make sure that the thing is working perfectly and does not leak gas.

After a complete rebuild,I saw the results on an old Harley. The cylinder filled up and the resulting hydraulic condition 'fracked" the head gasket. Less than 100 miles since the rebuild.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yes its the 06 suzuki katana 750. None of the parts were kept separate when rebuilding the carbs so everything got mixed around. I checked the floats and they are good, needles look brand new. When cleaning, I had to really grip on and pull hard on the seating that the needle goes in in order to pull it out, it doesn't look very pretty anymore but the needle seems to drop into it smoothly, however it may be a different story when the engine is running and things are shaking. I will post a picture of it when I get the chance and see what you think.

I would have replaced some of the parts but the local dealership is a bit over priced. Anyone know where and how to buy the individual parts online?
 

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there are all kinds of places online to purchase motorcycle parts. Usually, the sites will ask for year make and model. You can then do a search on their site for part number, or name. For the seat and the needle (which I would replace, for the nominal cost, the peace of mind would be worth it) you can put in Carb rebuild kit and it will give you options. For my bike, a carb rebuild kit only includes the needle and seat. But I find it so much easier to go down to a bike shop (not stealership) and have them get my whattchamacallit, cause atleast they know what I'm talking about. My place is a harley shop, but they still get me parts for my Savage, money is money.

I agree with Slum, change that needle and seat.
 
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