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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently purchased a 1983 GS750ES, cosmetically it needs some fresh paint a new speed/tach cluster, and new turn signals, cleaning up some light rust on the inside of the tank. I plan on replacing the stock dash with a koso db-01R, buying some generic turn signals and cleaning out the inside the tank with the kbs tank sealing kit. I am a bit confused if I will need to buy the plus kit to strip an old liner or not, if yall could take a look at these photos of the inside my tank and let me know if I'm going to need to strip an old liner or just remove rust and re-seal? I'm new to motorcycles, but I'm a mechanically inclined person and excited to learn! Excuse any typos I'm on my phone at work, thank you for any responses!

http://rs249.pbsrc.com/albums/gg217/z-smoke/Mobile Uploads/20150614_185428.jpg~320x480


http://rs249.pbsrc.com/albums/gg217/z-smoke/Mobile Uploads/20150614_185402.jpg~320x480

http://rs249.pbsrc.com/albums/gg217/z-smoke/GS750ES project/20150608_185636.jpg~320x480
 

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I recently resealed my tank. Looks like you would be better off using electrolysis to clean your tank, or just buy a new tank and save yourself a month of work.

1. I plugged the petcock hole with Styrofoam: you can also use cork--Styrofoam will leak a little, but is easy and cheap to keep applying as you cycle through the cleaning process
2. I used Apple vinegar to soak my tank--emptied the vinegar into a bucket with an old T-shirt over it as a filter.
3. Day 3 or 4 use new apple vinegar.
~~~~on a dry--none humid day--~~~(humid weather will make your tank start to rust back up in about 1 min depending on the humidity)
4. When tank is free of rust: Use 90% rubbing alcohol and shake tank: remember to cover all holes. Poor and repeat with new 90% rubbing alcohol until it comes out clean: remember to use new container for alcohol discharge.
5. blow dry (with dryer) until all moisture in tank is gone.
6. Add sealant: I used POR-15 because it is cheap: like 15 bucks on amazon. Do not use POR-15 in humid environment.
7. After adding sealant: cover holes and slowly roll tank around: then shake tank at different angles. Empty sealant for reuse.

8. Keep repeating this process until tank is completely rust free: use a flash light and minny mirror to look inside for rust: small bubbles of sealant--rust under bubbles: cause of bubbles=rust.

Cost of tank restoration: 20 hours of work and about $50.00
It will be easier to just buy a tank on ebay.
 

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Seriously, it's not worth the bother. You're not going to make your money back when you resell it. The reason people restore bikes is mostly for nostalgia. It's your first bike and you're all excited and you want it all pretty, I'm sure everybody on here was like that with their first bike. And then they tipped it. What's important about your first bike is that it's roadworthy, nothing more or less.
 

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Seriously, it's not worth the bother. You're not going to make your money back when you resell it. The reason people restore bikes is mostly for nostalgia. It's your first bike and you're all excited and you want it all pretty, I'm sure everybody on here was like that with their first bike. And then they tipped it. What's important about your first bike is that it's roadworthy, nothing more or less.
First of all, welcome to the forum ��

If you go to the home �� page and scroll down you will find two sections that will be very helpful to you, one is a repair section and the other is a restoration section.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I made an attempt to clean the tank out with a product called evapo rust, and I didnt seal it I just filled it with gas on the same day, after letting it dry hoping that would prevent flash rust. A tech at the suzuki dealership told me it would be more dangerous for me to try and seal it and risk the sealant chipping and getting into my carbs. I was unsuccessful and it flash rusted pretty good. I got on the bike to go for a spin around the corner, and it died on me after a block and I had to push it back. Need to run through the carbs and give them a good cleaning pretty sure the jets are clogged with **** from the tank being rusted, and then flash rusting. I have since then said screw the old rusted tank, and have purchased a clean tank off of ebay, not in perfect shape, but it is clean on the inside with minor scrapes and one small dent, but most importantly it is clean. I painted the bike an apple red color, and the front fender a solid black, looks alot better now. Ill give another update in a week or two when I get the new tank on and clean out the carbs
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well a little update for anyone that cares, I ended up buying a tank on ebay, that had pictures of it clean, and was claimed to be clean, and it came with a **** ton of surface rust......needless to say I returned the tank. At this point I was super pissed off and decided to just go ahead and grind through the old tank, it sat in 1 gallon of evapo rust and 3 gallons of apple cider vinegar for a week, when I emptied the tank it was beautiful and clean. I then rinsed the tank out 4 times with hot water, and then once with isopropul alcohol. Then I spent a little over an hour hitting the tank with a commercial grade heat gun off and on. Got the tank bone dry and covered all the holes with cardboard that I had cut to size and poked holes in, so that i could screw it down to the petcock hole and the float hole. I then covered the cardboard with a few layers of painters tape, didnt want to risk the red kote leaking out.....its some nasty tough stuff. It has now been sitting and curing for a little over 24hours, a few hours ago I placed a small fan on the top of the tank blowing air through it.

As far as the carb is concerned, I pulled it apart and went through it, and found that one of the carbs float needles was jammed in the up position, and that same carb was also missing the washer that goes under the main jet. I am sure these two issues combined were why when I was giving it throttle it was flooding out and dieing. I used some heat from a lighter and carb cleaner to work the float return needle free, and I ordered a replacement washer from the suzuki dealership. The new washer is now in, I will probably go through the carbs one last time before I put them back on the bike, because I forgot to check the float height last time, and I forgot to clean out the fuel/air screws. I also pulled the petcock apart and cleaned that out as well.

gonna wait at least 3-4 more days to make sure the red kote is fully cured, and then I will throw it all back together on the bike with a fresh inline fuel filter and new lines. I also discovered that the petcock vacuum line had never been attached(when I started with process I didnt even know it needed one) so I bought some new line for the vacuum, which is another reason it might of been dieing out when given gas.....no fuel hahaha.

TLDR: tank lined, carbed cleaned, hopefully all will go well in a couple days when I throw it back on. Ill update everyone
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Forgot to say that the first rinse with hot water I also added a few tablespoons of baking soda to cut the acidity out of the tank....that is all haha
 

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Sounds like you have a plan and working your way through it. Think how happy and proud you will be when it is all together and running.


*&^#$^^[email protected]@#$#@@$% yes I did that!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Alright quick update, replaced the old spark plugs and one of the plugs had been tightened down so hard that the piston had been knocking against it and there was no gap in the plug. Went to clean out the fuel/air screws, and on one of the carbs the screw had been tightened all the way down, and the washers/o-rings underneath the springs had gone to **** on all of them(So I have ordered some new ones and they will be in next week, along with new low jet plugs cause those have also gone to ****).

As far as the tank goes, it has been sitting and curing for 5days, on the red kote container it says that once the smell of the red kote is gone that it is safe to use.....I can still smell it??????? what is the typical cure time for red kote?

TO DO LIST
-replace washers/o-rings under fuel to air screws
- re-finish paint on the tank(screwed it up cleaning out the inside and lining i)
- bench sync the carbs(Went to sync them and the lock nut on the adjuster screw for two of them is stuck, gonna have to work it free with pb blaster)
- put it all back together and pray to jesus I can finally ride

I have no clue with all the **** that I have found how this bike started so easily when I went to buy it......what ever hahahaha
 

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Are you sure it had the correct plugs? A plug even tightened to the max should never touch the piston. I'd really check that out and even compare a couple different brands of the "same" plug.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Are you sure it had the correct plugs? A plug even tightened to the max should never touch the piston. I'd really check that out and even compare a couple different brands of the "same" plug.
yea I double checked because I thought the same thing, but Im telling you I had to crank on this thing to get it off, felt like some one had tightened it down with a drill
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
alright so update, I finished the tank, re painted it today, and put it back on the bike. Along with new O-rings, and washers under the air/fuel screws. I set them to 2 1/2 turns out and threw everything back on the bike. Went to start it up and set the petcock to prime to re-fill the bowls, and I forgot to turn it back to the on position and over filled the carbs and they started to leak from the overflow. set it back to fuel on and got nothing, with the choke and without the choke.

Starting to get pissed at this bike, think I might of flooded it with the petcock set to prime so im going to let it sit and try again tomorrow, but if that doesnt work, any ideas of what is going on?
 

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Agree with Dodsfall. Even on prime the carbs shouldn't over fill like that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
ok, I know the valve isnt sticking, I just finished cleaning them and they were all moving freely and returning correctly. float level must be off, would this keep the bike from starting all together? gonna have to wait till sunday to rip the carbs back off and adjust them.
 
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