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Exhaust rust removal?

9K views 13 replies 5 participants last post by  RedRooster 
#1 ·
Greetings everyone!

I am trying to get ready to attempt to remove some unsightly rust from a couple of motorcycles that I own. Each is a 2008 and have built up some apparent age spots that I'd like to remove. I've attached pictures. Each bike was bought used without exhaust modifications by myself.

I've read a lot online and watched a few YouTube videos regarding how to remove it. Stone folks even suggest leaving it on to protect the underlying metal. Given how bad it looks, I was going to consider attempting to remove it with the following steps (abbreviated)

Completely remove the fairing and wrap the bike in plastic to protect it from treatment and abrasion.
Apply a CLR equivalent to the area using a spray bottle or sponge and allow it to sit for about 5 minutes or so.
Wipe off and rinse.
Rub down the remaining rust with aluminum foil.
Polish using a mild polishing compound or fine steel wool.

Does anyone see any obvious problems with this plan? I just want to make sure I'm not going to destroy the exhaust or stain it. Thanks! View attachment 64379
64380
Auto part Leg Tire Rim Vehicle
 
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#3 ·
I second the Evapo-Rust. Go on youtube and look me up, RebelnDirt there as well and I do a couple of vids on how well that stuff worked with my Trail 90 restoration. I did the soak over night treatment and the metal went in brown and ugly and came out silver/grey completely free of rust. I would then recommend cleaning the Evapo-Rust off and treating the pipes to some automotive header paint. That stuff can handle the heat and will help protect the pipes.
 
#4 ·
On my exhaust pipes maybe the rust was too deep or something - but the chemical rust removing agents didn't do squat after letting them soak for a full day. I used the industrial rust disolver and that was the strongest stuff I could find in shops. What I had to do was use an angle grinder and put on a beefy carbon steel brush, this made quick work of the rust. I tried the same thing with a drill but it was nowhere near as efficient. After I steel brushed the whole thing, I did another treatment of rust disolver to get the tiny bits I missed and it came out very clean. After that I treated my pipes with a clear satin paint that's good up to 2000 degrees. Keep in mind if you paint your pipes with anything not rated up to 2000 degrees, it will peel and burn off; so be mindful when picking out your exhaust paint.
 
#5 ·

Here is a link to my build thread, look around post #7 and you can see the foot pegs and some other pieces that are completely bare metal. THis is exactly how they came out of the Evapo-Rust with only some rinsing off of the stuff and drying. You can clearly see the damage to the metal from the rust and also how it is no longer there. These parts were not cleaned with a wire wheel. There is also links to my videos in the thread.
 
#7 ·
A 5 gallon bucket and a couple 1 gallon bottles of E-R. The pipes are most likely divided into 2 or 3 sections for easy assembly.
 
#10 ·
Thanks for all of the feedback! I'm hoping to avoid taking the exhaust system off if at all possible because of how much it requires for the R6 (many other components need to be removed as well which I don't feel really comfortable taking off with my pretty novice mechanical experience!). Although painting it with some black may help prevent the issue from occurring and make the bike look pretty good... Good points to consider!
 
#11 ·
Not removing the exhaust is going to be pointless to even try to fix it. even If you do get the rust off you will never be able to recoat The pipes with anything to prevent it from coming back.
 
#13 ·
Just FYI, evapo rust recommends soaking paper towels in their product and wrapping around your project if it's too big to soak. You can keep evaporation down wrapping plastic wrap around the towels.

It works just about as well, I used that method on some large bush hog parts.
 
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