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I turned the engine over by hand without the cam tensioner installed. The chain binded somewhere and I think it skipped a few teeth as well
As Semi said, you should be okay. After you get everything together, including the tensioner, you can rotate the engine by hand and make sure the marks land where they should be.

Just fyi, I did the same thing but only because my factory manual specifically states to retract the tensioner and THEN rotate! I still had my cams in but it jumped a tooth and never looked right after that. I got real good at removing and installing the cam cover as I tried different cam positions!
 

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Discussion Starter #42
Thanks. Yeah intake mark towards throttle body on intake cam and exhaust mark toward headers on exhaust cam, it's clearer in the pdf, then count 28 chain pins from mark to mark. Ok guess it's time to get the cam plate and tensioner back on.

My manual says to do the same retract the tensioner then it sets itself I guess, I'll make sure it doesn't skip a tooth.
 

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Neighbour with a Triumph set the valves. Have to back off / retract the tensioner. Check manual for instructions on resetting the tension. The Triumph uses some hydraulic pressure, so rattles when first fired, goes clunk and then quiet.
UK
 

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Discussion Starter #44
Neighbour with a Triumph set the valves. Have to back off / retract the tensioner. Check manual for instructions on resetting the tension. The Triumph uses some hydraulic pressure, so rattles when first fired, goes clunk and then quiet.
UK
Yeah I just turned it over by hand after installing the tensioner, it made a very scary clunk sound as soon a started turning but then was fine after that.
 

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So, have you been able to get everything back together and start 'er up?

Mine put off a bit of smoke and the rear wheel started turning on its own, so I freaked out a little bit. It all stopped after idling for a minute or two but I thought I had royally f----d up!
 

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Discussion Starter #46
Going to try and finish up this morning, having a lot of trouble getting it in time. I'll have it at 1,4 TDC like the manual says, then ill put the cams in to where they look lined up and I have the right amount of chain pins between the two marks, then once I start to tighten the cam plate the chain will tighten and get pulled off the cam sprocket. I got around this by pushing the chain down while tightening the plate. After that I put the tensioner in then put the engine over two full rotations back to 1, 4 TDC and my marks are now a couple teeth off. Not sure what im doing wrong, giving it another shot today.
 

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Dude, I feel your pain! Do you have anyone available to watch the cams and chain as you start to bolt it down?

I bolted/unbolted my plate at least 15 times between trying to get timing set and finding various shims hadn't seated correctly and thus had zero clearance. I was lucky enough to have my wife hold one cam in place while I pulled on the chain enough to wiggle the other cam a single tooth. I was getting seriously frustrated and depressed before it finally came together....
 

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Discussion Starter #48
I think I might get up to 15 as well before I get it lol. Im pretty sure my shims are seated correctly, the top of the valve has a nice indent for the shims, you don't put them inside the bucket like I have seen on other bikes, seems to be pretty idiot proof on my bike.

I'll get it eventually, on the bright side or dark side depending on how you look at it, I have plenty of time to work on it and take my time.
 

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One other thing that helped toward the end - I knew my exhaust cam was okay because it's timing mark was good when the engine was TDC, so I put two zip ties through it to keep the chain from moving on the teeth while I fiddled around with the intake cam...

I have to say that I am pretty lucky in regards to having so much time, i.e. my family is healthy and we are getting a ton of stuff done around the house that was on my "summer list"!
 

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Discussion Starter #50
Well I got it back together started it and horrible loud rattle, its coming from around the timing chain area, its a rattle not a tick. It sounds something like his video below but quite a bit louder, I should've recorded it. I spun it over by hand many times before I started it and it was not binding anywhere. The timing looked dead on if it is off it cant be more than a tooth. It started immediately it barely cranked at all and idled normally I revved it up a few hundred RPM and it did that fine. I only let it run for like 20 seconds, but besides the rattle it seemed to run fine. What do you think? Could a tooth off cause a noise like that? CCT issue? I already pulled the CCT and it seemed to go back to the same place it was when I removed it before the valve adjustment and yes I did reset it and reinstall it exactly the way the manual says to do it. Also the timing chain did not jump any teeth from starting it, my marks are in the same place they were at TDC before I started it.

Really hoping I did not just bend a bunch of valves, not sure how could have seeing that the engine turned over fine by hand.

 

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When I started mine, I really couldn't remember what "normal" sounded like (because it took me 6 freaking weeks!) so I called a friend and had him listen to it over the phone. He basically said "If it is off a tooth, you'll know because it'll sound like sh!t and idle real poorly."

You may be off a tooth but I'd be inclined to say that the CCT isn't putting enough tension on the chain, allowing it to slap around a bit. I can't think of anything else it could be...
 

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Discussion Starter #52 (Edited)
Well have a listen. Sounds awful and I think i have likely done quite a bit of damage. Before staring it I cranked it over several times by hand, it was not hitting the valves it cranked smoothly before recording and still does after I recorded this. I disconnected the injector wires and cranked it with the starter, it sounds fine you do not hear and metallic ticking and its very consistent so I assume all the cylinders have even compression. I dont know were to go from here, quite upset.

 

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If the timing was set correctly, I don't see how you could have done any damage. Granted, I'm not an expert. Are you sure the tensioner is working?

A couple of options: 1) Not sure about your area but I've got a few "traveling motorcycle mechanics" who post on CL and FB. I hired one in my area and he was super cool and helpful, as well as way cheaper than a dealership, or 2) Take that vid to your nearest Kawa dealer and have one of the mechanics have a listen and see what he thinks.

I wish I could be of more help...
 

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I dont know were to go from here, quite upset.
Maybe the auto-adjusting tensioner did not auto-adjust like you'ed expect it to.

Try this.
With the cam cover off, manually turn the engine over by hand while watching the cam chain / camshafts.
When you get to the point where the chain is tight on the non tensioner side remove the center tensioner bolt and spring. (You'll probably need to keep the intake cam from moving by holding it with a box end wrench on one of the sprocket bolts).
Slide a rod or something into the open tensioner center and give it a few good pushes as a way to take up slack in the chain.
You could turn the engine (by hand) a few times while manually pushing in on the center of the adjuster in an effort to get the slack out of the chain, holding the intake cam "back" when needed.
Worth a try.

Heck you might even be able to do it without removing the cam cover but you wouldn't be able to see when the cams are in the best position and I would want to get a look at the chain guide anyway to be sure nothing is making it hang up.

S F
 

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Discussion Starter #56
Thanks I will give it shot, everything has to come apart again anyway. You have to remove the throttle body to get at the CCT on this thing, PITA. I wanna check the timing again anyway so I will definitely pull the valve cover.

My brain wants to go to the worst possible conclusion for some reason. All I can think is that is the noise of the valves kissing the pistons. I spun it over at least ten times by hand before I started it with no issues, never binded at all. So yeah ill try to assume its something to do with the chain for now lol.
 

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My brain wants to go to the worst possible conclusion for some reason. All I can think is that is the noise of the valves kissing the pistons.
Hard to tell about the sound from way over here, but I believe that thing runs way too good to have a bunch of bent valves.
That's my opinion and I'm sticking with it.... :cool:

S F
 

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We're on our own. The dealers are corona closed.
Well if they are still open as mine is I can't get to them because the county I'm in has gone full lockdown so I couldn't get there(in a different county) if I wanted to. Crap just got real here with stay home orders unless mandatory.
 

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Discussion Starter #59
I live in upstate New York , all the dealers are closed along with most other things. I believe they will still do emergency repairs for people but im not about to try that with my motorcycle in the middle of this. There is a local motorcycle shop that's open probably illegally, hes a royal enfield dealer weirdly enough, he said he is backed up until late May early June though.

Well the intake valves aren't bent, at least not enough to be visible, you can see them pretty well with the throttle body off. I watched all of them open and close as I turned the engine. Gave me a little hope lol.
 
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