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Discussion Starter #1
So I have a bit of a hack broke motercyclist question here. I have an 05 Kawasaki Ninja ZX-6R 636 with 32k miles which I'm pretty sure has never had a valve adjustment. It runs great, idles fine, no issues with hot or cold starting. I can find an entire used top end for this bike with cams for quite a bit cheaper than a proper valve adjustment would cost me. I'm sure I could do an adjustment myself if I just have a used top end on my workbench. So my question is why in the world would I pay to have a valve adjustment done? Is there something I'm overlooking? Could burning out an exhaust valve damage the bottom end?
 

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I would suggest getting a service manual and tackling the valve adjustment yourself. To put a new top end on would be more work (and money) and still involve the valve adjustment anyway.
The maintenance is critical. You either have to do it your self, or pay someone else to do it. Neglecting it is not an option.
 

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^ I beg to differ. Valves need to be in spec even if the bike is only for grandma to ride to church on Sundays.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
I've watched videos on how to do it and well it isn't like adjusting the valves on my old Honda prelude lol. Taking the cams out to change the shims terrifies me, this is an interference engine no? So if I reinstalled the cam incorrectly I'd bend the valves i'm trying to adjust? I'm no stranger to turning a wrench but I have never torn into an engine like that. Nor have I used feeler gauges before. I've found some good guides but they are not for my specific bike, usually older or newer models. The service manual isn't very detailed about the disassembly and reassembly, I don't know if i should try only with that as a reference. I fear I could make it worse. The shops I've called wont give me a price estimate, one guy said near $400 but he is booked until June, I really cant spend more than that, not until well into riding season anyway.
 

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I've watched videos on how to do it and well it isn't like adjusting the valves on my old Honda prelude lol. Taking the cams out to change the shims terrifies me, this is an interference engine no? So if I reinstalled the cam incorrectly I'd bend the valves i'm trying to adjust? I'm no stranger to turning a wrench but I have never torn into an engine like that. Nor have I used feeler gauges before. I've found some good guides but they are not for my specific bike, usually older or newer models. The service manual isn't very detailed about the disassembly and reassembly, I don't know if i should try only with that as a reference. I fear I could make it worse. The shops I've called wont give me a price estimate, one guy said near $400 but he is booked until June, I really cant spend more than that, not until well into riding season anyway.
I just did this on my F4i a couple of months ago and, like you, I was extremely nervous about it. And, as you mentioned, messing with the cams and timing became my biggest problem. On the plus side, I learned A LOT about what not to do! :LOL:

Seriously, though, it was a valuable learning experience and I've gained a ton of confidence re: understanding how my bike works. I have no doubt that if you plan it out and take your time, it is very doable... and you save a ton o' cash!

I watched a F4i specific video about 10 times before diving in and used it repeatedly for reference while in the process as well. Found this one for your model -
- but there a few others out there. As he mentions towards the beginning of the vid, zip tying the cam chain to the sprockets can save a lot of worry and fiddling with positioning.

There is no doubt it is a serious process, but the rewards are, imho, well worth it!
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Alright I think I will give it a shot, probably something I should learn how to do and become confident with anyway. I'll roll the bike into the living room and take my time with it. Worst case I'll need a new engine lol.

The shims... Should I go OEM or get like a hotcams or wiesco set? Here is a link to partzilla where I can get OEM shims seems, i'd have to buy them individually. So in that case I would have to check the valve clearance first then order shims or just buy all of them, I'd rather not do either. The wiseco shim kit has different diameter shims available, not sure what my bike needs and cant seem to find that info in the service manual.

Also if anyone can recommend a good feeler gauge set, I will need that too. And probably a better torque wrench than the harbor freight one I have.

OEM: Kawasaki Motorcycle 2005 OEM Parts Diagram for Valve(s) | Partzilla.com
Aftermarket: valve shims - BikeBandit.com
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Alright I think I will give it a shot, probably something I should learn how to do and become confident with anyway. I'll roll the bike into the living room and take my time with it. Worst case I'll need a new engine lol.

The shims... Should I go OEM or get like a hotcams or wiesco set? Here is a link to partzilla where I can get OEM shims seems, i'd have to buy them individually. So in that case I would have to check the valve clearance first then order shims or just buy all of them, I'd rather not do either. The wiseco shim kit has different diameter shims available, not sure what my bike needs and cant seem to find that info in the service manual.

Also if anyone can recommend a good feeler gauge set, I will need that too. And probably a better torque wrench than the harbor freight one I have. Will I need a micrometer?

OEM: Kawasaki Motorcycle 2005 OEM Parts Diagram for Valve(s) | Partzilla.com
Aftermarket: valve shims - BikeBandit.com
 

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Valve clearance is valve timing. It is as important as ignition timing if the engine is to run correctly. It can be complex, but with doing.
The bike shop said I have an oil leak on my Suzuki. So I will remove the engine to check, and adjust the valves while i am at it.
I have the multi page instruction sheet.
It is probably chain oil on the rear cylinder, but I will check. It will be easier to do the job with the engine out. The rear cylinder is barely visible, so quite awkward to work on with the engine in the frame.

UK
 

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Alright I think I will give it a shot, probably something I should learn how to do and become confident with anyway. I'll roll the bike into the living room and take my time with it. Worst case I'll need a new engine lol.

The shims... Should I go OEM or get like a hotcams or wiesco set? Here is a link to partzilla where I can get OEM shims seems, i'd have to buy them individually. So in that case I would have to check the valve clearance first then order shims or just buy all of them, I'd rather not do either. The wiseco shim kit has different diameter shims available, not sure what my bike needs and cant seem to find that info in the service manual.

Also if anyone can recommend a good feeler gauge set, I will need that too. And probably a better torque wrench than the harbor freight one I have.

OEM: Kawasaki Motorcycle 2005 OEM Parts Diagram for Valve(s) | Partzilla.com
Aftermarket: valve shims - BikeBandit.com
Good for you! And also, I feel sorry for your future self! Only because there will likely be a couple of times when you think "Why did I decide to do this!!!" Stay strong, be patient and you will persevere!

I suggest waiting and buying individual shims after finding the exact measurements you need. A kit usually has 3 of many different sizes, most of which you will never use. I ended up replacing all of mine and would have needed 3 kits to do the job because I needed 9 of a certain size. Buying them at the dealership was (surprise, surprise) the cheapest option for me.

I bought a dedicated millimeter feeler gauge set from Amazon and used an "inch pound" torque wrench since the torque values were so light on most of the bolts.
 

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Good points Doc. I have a full set / kit for the Suzuki. Cost about $150. As you say, cheaper to buy what you need.
I have the inch pound torque wrench for bolting up the small outboard motor, plus other uses.
2 or 3 beer also helps with those fine adjustments.

UK
 

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I would not rely on a HF torque wrench for anything critical.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Ordering everything but he shims now. Hopefully UPS is still functional by the time I need to order the shims lol. I'll update on how it goes and will probably be back with questions.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Well all of the exhaust valves are out of spec and all of the intake valves are in spec. The exhaust range from .18mm-.20mm, in spec range is .22mm-.31mm. Taking the cams out now.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Well it is warm, kinda making a mess though lol. Bit of bad news hopefully its not too big of a deal. I snapped 1 bolt got the rest out ,snapped right at the top of the threads, I really do not want to attempt to drill it out. I circled it in this picture.
61085
 
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