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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2016 cb500f everything has been perfect bike sat through the winter covered but we had a horrible rain storm which blew the cover off and it rained real hard on it I went to go for a ride and no headlight I have power at the fuse but no power at either the headlight plug or at the hi/low switch I cannot afford honda shop any suggestions
 

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It's either a broken wire between the fuse and switch, which I find hard to believe since it's a 16, unless you have lots of squirrels that chew, or the plug is loose at either the backside of the fusebox or loose in the switch housing. Are you absolutely sure it's getting power to the fuse box but no power to the actual headlight plug itself?

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I've having a similar issue right now with a 1980 CB650. I am having a voltage drop though when hooking the headlight up. Is your voltage constant at the fuse? Are you reading the same voltage at the fuse at you have provided by your battery? If you check power at the fuse (assuming it's the correct fuse) but you don't have power down the line at the plug then it sounds to me like you have found the problem area. Like previously stated I doubt you have broken wires and stuff since it's a 2016 but try pulling plugs and cleaning contacts. Rain and heavy weather will cause corrosion and debris where you don't want it.
 

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Hello *******, O.k. power at the fuse, but on both sides of the fuse? I had a recent issue also, the 'LOAD side' was crappy and corroded. Also sometimes a lot of connections are made up in the bucket, where the headlight is, might just be that the 'HOT' wire goes there to feed circuits, comes out to headlight dimmer sw. then back to headlight, also there is usually some sort of bonding jumper cause the forks move, the jumper makes sure a ground is there for front dir. sigs, and the headlight. . .Had a Clymers shop manual years ago, good book to have.

If you don't have it, a multi-meter, get one, It does not have to be real expensive, enough to measure 15 volts d.c. with and an ohm-meter is with it.

If you can't swing a meter at present, try the auto parts stores, and get a socket for a tail-lite bulb, add longer wires and put a gator clip on one wire, clip to a good ground and with other wire check for voltage, not the greatest but u will know where there is voltage/power.
 

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Hello *******, O.k. power at the fuse, but on both sides of the fuse? I had a recent issue also, the 'LOAD side' was crappy and corroded. Also sometimes a lot of connections are made up in the bucket, where the headlight is, might just be that the 'HOT' wire goes there to feed circuits, comes out to headlight dimmer sw. then back to headlight, also there is usually some sort of bonding jumper cause the forks move, the jumper makes sure a ground is there for front dir. sigs, and the headlight. . .Had a Clymers shop manual years ago, good book to have.

If you don't have it, a multi-meter, get one, It does not have to be real expensive, enough to measure 15 volts d.c. with and an ohm-meter is with it.

If you can't swing a meter at present, try the auto parts stores, and get a socket for a tail-lite bulb, add longer wires and put a gator clip on one wire, clip to a good ground and with other wire check for voltage, not the greatest but u will know where there is voltage/power.
Good suggestion Ray but today you can get a cheap, and I mean very cheap, multimeter from Harbor Freight or just cheap from Walmart. I've still got my tester I rigged up just like this from years ago before the flood of cheap Chinese goods started flooding into this country. I even soldered finish nails onto the wires for piercing wire covering.
 
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