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Discussion Starter #1
So over the past 3 weeks, I have looked at many bikes and have narrowed my choices down to the two following bikes which are both original owner bikes as I have realized a salvaged is not for me and I do not want a bike that has had multiple owners as the chances of the bike being mistreated goes up with each additional owner since the value of the bike, by market and owner, goes down:

2013 ZX6R w/ABS for $7000 (1,200 miles). 5 mo warranty left. White/black and all stock. Owner is a confirmed Kawi employee who likely got it at a discounted rate, if not free.

2011 ZX6R for $5,500 (9,300 miles). 2 years and 3 month warranty left. It is in your Kawi green/black. 28 year old owner, going through a divorce, living with mom again with 2 small kids. Has to get rid of everything. This one has a ton of mods and motorcycle tools including:

"Double Bubble Windshield, ZX6R Grips, zx6r Brake Reservoir Cover, RSC Stunt Clutch and Aftermarket Shortie Brake Handle, Rear Cowl, Annorita Quickshifter, X-Tre, Power Commander V, M4 exhaust with both silencers, -1/+2 gearing, Speedohealer, HID headlights, Q3 tires less than 300 miles on, Woodcraft frame sliders, Tank Grips, the original Ohlins Steering Damper, all the original parts, oil for oil change, rear pitball stand, front axle tool and 2 front stands."

Which one is best for my money keeping in mind this will be my second bike, my first true sport bike?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Stunt clutch?
It is for smoother, quicker clutchwork and yes, alot of guys with it use it for stunting. This guy "supposedly" doesn't but I will know once I see the bike in person. My neighbor has a '10 ZX6R and he has the RSC Stunt Clutch and he only has 2,000 miles on it, 40+ years old, absolutely no stunting and he loves it simply because it's better for riding in the city. Yes, the word "stunt" scares me off a bit
 

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Retired twice: Navy and as a govt contractor
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Do you wrench?

Seems like the modified bike has a better warrantee but it may have also been ridden harder. Check it over closely
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Do you wrench?

Seems like the modified bike has a better warrantee but it may have also been ridden harder. Check it over closely
I am an absolute noob when it comes to auto/bikes. I have watched videos (lol yea I know) about how to check for bearings making sure the bike hasn't been stunted or at least stunted hard.
 

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Commute Racer
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Yeah, the stunt clutch have me pause, as did the sprockets and quick shifter, but the rest looked standard fare.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yeah, the stunt clutch have me pause, as did the sprockets and quick shifter, but the rest looked standard fare.
All the guys I know, do not stunt with a bike they purchased BRAND NEW. Most guys who stunt do so with older bikes, 2nd, 3rd, 4th etc owner and bikes that are cheap to begin with. But again, you never know.
 

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The one with all the mods questions just how well were they installed tuned and adjusted too. Not to mention how many wheelies and thus hard impact landing has that front suspension had. I like odd number years myself but how are you with 13? The only one I have some knowledge of is a Spyder and that year you want no part of. Don't know about other brands.
 

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What's the approximate cost of all those add-on's the 2011 has?

Sure both bikes have probably been revved to redline plenty of times but which one (if either) has been 'abused'? "Fresh tires" may sound like a perk but that also means maybe the old tires were fried right down to their core.. :eek:

One way to probably tell is, are those fresh tires top-of-the-line models or el-cheapo's that fit? It makes a lot of difference at the time the guy was replacing the tires, if he were "replacing to sell" he would put on cheap rubber. But if he was replacing-to-keep tires he'd buy good ones.

How important is the ABS to you?
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
The one with all the mods questions just how well were they installed tuned and adjusted too. Not to mention how many wheelies and thus hard impact landing has that front suspension had. I like odd number years myself but how are you with 13? The only one I have some knowledge of is a Spyder and that year you want no part of. Don't know about other brands.
He has all the paperwork for everything and all the stock parts as well. Again, I tend to believe, and so do all my biker friends, that the original owner tends to treat his bike better because he paid the premium brand new price. As the bike gets older, racks up more mileage, depreciates, and it moves from owner 1 to owner 2, 3, 4, the likeliness of it getting stunted and abused goes up.

As for the '13, it was completely revamped. The '09-'12 model was unchanged and in '13, they added two separate front forks, included ABS as an option (which the bike I am looking at has and cost $1,000 more brand new), has traction control which according to all reviews help tremendously on roads with dirt or during/after rain, a much more "plush" suspension for street riding and the '13 has more overall midrange power.

What's the approximate cost of all those add-on's the 2011 has?

Sure both bikes have probably been revved to redline plenty of times but which one (if either) has been 'abused'? "Fresh tires" may sound like a perk but that also means maybe the old tires were fried right down to their core.. :eek:

One way to probably tell is, are those fresh tires top-of-the-line models or el-cheapo's that fit? It makes a lot of difference at the time the guy was replacing the tires, if he were "replacing to sell" he would put on cheap rubber. But if he was replacing-to-keep tires he'd buy good ones.

How important is the ABS to you?
The add ons on the '11 is roughly $2,500 give or take a few hundred. I like most of the mods such as the frame sliders, rear/front stands, power commander, exhaust. The new tires of top of the line PP3 tires which run anywhere between $135-$200 new (front is about $20 cheaper than rear). He also has the receipt for the tires.

How important is ABS...fairly important due to the fact it decreases the likelihood of the rear tire from locking up which is one of the main causes for a single bike crash. Something jumps in front of you, a sudden car stops and you instinctively slam on the rear or front brakes and with ABS, it helps greatly in keeping you upright and not going down along with traction control. Not a deal breaker but a definitive perk.
 

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An experienced rider should practice enough to override the instinct to lock the brakes in a quick stop. ABS may be helpful in cases of low traction, but isn't a substitute for learning how to brake properly.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
An experienced rider should practice enough to override the instinct to lock the brakes in a quick stop. ABS may be helpful in cases of low traction, but isn't a substitute for learning how to brake properly.
Of course with experience one would hopefully practice enough to not lock up the brakes but according to IHSA data, it happens more often than not and the ABS isn't mean to make up for inexperience but to help if and when it happens. I guess it's like gear...not needed when nothing goes wrong but if something goes wrong, gear can make a big difference between a bruise and losing a bunch of skin. If you're going to fast, in the end, it might not matter gear or not but still better safe than sorry is my motto. I'm always ATGATT
 

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Will they let you take them for a spin if they follow you? That might make your mind up. Both just plain have positives and negatives. I'm a little confused about remaining warranty. The older has more than the newer by a lot. How are you fixing a major problem? Might have to give up ABS and gain a ton more with the older one. If it isn't beat to death which I'm assuming is the case.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Will they let you take them for a spin if they follow you? That might make your mind up. Both just plain have positives and negatives. I'm a little confused about remaining warranty. The older has more than the newer by a lot. How are you fixing a major problem? Might have to give up ABS and gain a ton more with the older one. If it isn't beat to death which I'm assuming is the case.
To answer your first question, both will let me take them for a spin with cash in hand, which I am willing to do...but there's a problem. The '11 is 2.5 hours away and the '13 is 7.5 hours away and the weather is currently 18 degrees with snow on the ground. Test riding is not ideal for me or the owner but they will allow it.

Secondly, the difference in warranties. The '11 was purchased in 2012 brand new and came with the standard 1 year Kawi warranty for all new bikes. He purchased an additional 4 year warranty which means the bike is covered for it's oem parts until 2017 while the '13 was purchased brand new in 2014 and came with the standard 1 year warranty which runs out this year in July I believe.
 

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For me then it's the 11. Don't worry about the mileage difference and just learn to brake correctly forgoing ABS. Too many positives to the 11 now.
 

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Personally I'd go for the 13', I like buying stuff that hasn't been messed with.
 

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You also like to wrench ODE. I do enough of that on farm equipment. I'm good if someone else bought and install stuff that I would have wanted anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
You also like to wrench ODE. I do enough of that on farm equipment. I'm good if someone else bought and install stuff that I would have wanted anyway.
I wish I knew how and will have to start...but yes if someone has paid the premium price for it, it is a nice little kicker. Man the decision is so hard. Hopefully my agent will make it easier later today
 

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It's not going to get easier either. Spring brings bike purchasing into the forefront. You'll soon have competition.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
It's not going to get easier either. Spring brings bike purchasing into the forefront. You'll soon have competition.
Yes, especially up north here where it is freezing for almost half the year and then as soon as April hits, bikes flood the market at higher prices and everyone buys them. If there is snow and bikes are up for sale, they can be had for much cheaper.
 
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