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Thanx ~ I mis read the diagram .
 

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I think we're just looking at a dead battery in this case.
 
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Could well be .

Dead batteries and short service life is why I have switched to AGM batteries .

The 5 year old battery in our 2015 Honda Civic went dead, I wonder if it's the end of life or what ~ I put a 1 ampere charger on it and will see tomorrow what gives .

SWMBO is tight with spending on things she doesn't Ken, if the battery is bad I'll go see what a new AGM one co$t$ and maybe buy it .

I dislike this Civic fairly intensely, why it sits for weeks or month at a time .

She'll drive her 1984 Mercedes Station Wagon with dead A/C all Summer but won't let me get rid of the Civic .

WOMEN ~ can't live with them, not allowed to shoot them.....
 

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Oddly enough I was jesting, I'm one of those few old guys who has a diamond and knows it .

I'll begin checking for AGM batteries tomorrow after I jot down the BCI group number .
 
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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
Alright gang, now for the next crazy edition of WTF is going on... Received the new stator yesterday.
Before installing the stator I bench tested it for fault ground, (all 3 leads back to the body of the stator) and ohms on all 3 leads to each other. Everything tested fine.
So installed it and same results as before but it gets weirder. Just like before at the secondary rectifier I get mid 13VDC if I put my meter to ground and slide the positive on the spade terminal between the rectifier and the output wire that runs to the battery like this:

Hood Motor vehicle Automotive tire Bumper Automotive exterior


At the battery still getting about .02 VDC over resting battery voltage with engine idling and revving it. Then I noticed the wires coming out of the R/R were RED HOT. Like melting soon hot. This never happened with the stator I replaced. I unplugged the stator and tested VAC and without revving it up, I was getting 30+VAC from each lead. Plugged it back into the R/R and unhooked the R/R from the harness and was getting anywhere from 13VDC to 22VDC. URGH! So the owner agreed to replacing the R/R, ordering that today. I just wish I was getting an over charging condition at the battery or off the secondary rectifier. Doesn't make sense the regulator is crapping out but still no charge getting to the battery. I would have expected some overcharging with 22VDC coming out of the regulator. R/R has a good ground.
This thing is testing me.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
It's a F'n Dong Fang from China. The place I'm getting them from is the only place I have found that lists the parts for this scooter. Who knows with these things. Probably the last one I'll ever touch.
 

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The system is working as it should. All symptoms are indicative of working system trying to charge a dead battery. Do these tests:

3. what is battery voltage with everything OFF?
4. what is battery voltage when you turn key to ON?
5. what is battery voltage when you push START button?
 
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Anything 50 cc up to 450 cc dirt , Streeters from 150 cc scooter up to Honda Shadow . In stock ..
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It's a F'n Dong Fang from China. The place I'm getting them from is the only place I have found that lists the parts for this scooter. Who knows with these things. Probably the last one I'll ever touch.
Sorry you're having trouble ..., Going back to the expensive , Japanese types ? Maybe a complete new engine unit ?
 

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I wonder if the black rectifier you're looking at is mis wired or mis labeled ? .

If you have a meter you should be able to do a diode test to ensure you know which terminal does what .
 
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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
It only charges the battery .02VDC above resting charge. That's not right. So the battery at rest is 12.57. Key on it drops to 12.39. Voltage drop is just 11.5vdc. Battery is fine, brand new Yuasa. Fire it up, and it goes to about 12.59 vdc. And you can see what its doing now from what I was saying earlier about the regulator acting nuts now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 · (Edited)
Sorry you're having trouble ..., Going back to the expensive , Japanese types ? Maybe a complete new engine unit ?
It's not mine, I don't ride these, I posted this in the general forum to start out thinking I would get more replies there but they moved it to this scooter section since I mentioned that's what I was dealing with. Every time I ever touched one of these its been a headache.

I wonder if the black rectifier you're looking at is mis wired or mis labeled ? .

If you have a meter you should be able to do a diode test to ensure you know which terminal does what .
That rectifier checks out fine. It just appears to stop the power from the ign from flowing back to ground. If I jumper wire it out of the loop, ign powers up. I've never seen a rectifier like that placed after the R/R. I figure the R/R is doing that job anyway but it's not which is shown by the fact I can jumper it right from the R/R to the battery and ign turns on. So it's stopping that... I'm confused by it.


Schematic Rectangle Font Parallel Engineering
 

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when you turn key ON, without starting, do lights go on?
 
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when you turn key ON, without starting, do lights go on?
So here's part that's still confusing for me:

So I tried going right to the battery from the red + wire directly from the R/R and it turns on the lights/ign the minute I connected them. I ran the engine anyway and got the same results, pretty much just regular battery VDC.
Are you saying that with everything OFF, when you bypass bridge-rectifier and connect red output wire from RR directly to battery, lights turn ON? With key OFF?
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
Yeah if I bypass the rectifier, it powers up the ign/lights with the key off. So that rectifier must be there for that exact purpose I suppose.
Now I'm fully dealing with another issue. I replaced the stator and fired the bike up and about melted the wiring harness. Was getting really hot when I caught it. The R/R is now putting out 22VDC! It's grounded properly. And on top of that still no VDC getting to the battery. I have a new R/R on the way. Fried the head lights also. Should have tapped out when I had the chance.
 

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And on top of that still no VDC getting to the battery. I have a new R/R on the way. Fried the head lights also. Should have tapped out when I had the chance.
So if you run it and drive it around, battery
voltage gets lower and lower as it drains?
 
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