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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 1975 Honda Cb360T, and I am atttempting to replace the seals for the front forks because they are leaking. Im new at this stuff, so excuse my terms that I use, because I know they are probobly wrong. I took off the bolts that hold the springs down, and I also took everything loose from the forks. I have the front end jacked up. Should the forks separate at this time, or is there something still holding them together?
 

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See here, hope this helps




And changing the oil since this will be done too.


 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks, I believe the first video answers my question and I should be able to figure it out. I already changed the oil, it hardly had any oil in it. Thats why I didn't notice the leak, but when I changed it, I had oil coming out. Of course now, I will need to change the oil again.

Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
On the very first video, :46 seconds. He calls it a rebound adjustment screw. Does this come out? I am trying it with mine, there is an allen screw, but it doesnt come out. Then at 3:10 he gets the seal out, I have tried that, but I didn't do it too hard because I don't have that bottom screw out, so I didnt want to break anything.....

Any advice?
 

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I did the fork seals on my '89 XT350 last summer and was having a similar issue. I can't recall if the XT350 is inverted or not but I was having a problem with getting the seal out of my forks as well. I tried to pull the seal out like he did at 3:10 and no matter how much I pulled it wouldn't pop out..

IIRC there was a bolt at the bottom of the fork, when I tried to remove it, it would just spin. After removing the cap to the fork, the spring, and draining all the oil I could look down into the fork and see a large hex bolt type thing. I had to essentially make a large hex driver (threaded rod with nut welded to the end) to hold the hex head nut/bolt way down inside the fork. That kept the bottom bolt from spinning. After I got that bottom bolt out I was able to pull the seal as he did.

That probably made no sense at all, but I would look down inside the fork to see if there may be a nut/bolt that has to be removed down in there..
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yeah, that does make sense. I looked down the forks and saw it spinning. There isnt a hex bolt thing inside on mine for me to even hold anything. Sadly I think I am headed to the honda shop on tuesday and let them deal with it. I try to do most of the stuff on my own, but not knowing much at all about bikes makes it hard.
 

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Yeah, I almost did the same thing with mine but ended up deciding it would be better to learn for future reference. So you can see it spinning inside the fork but there's nothing at all that you could use to keep the inside bit from spinning? Seems strange, then again it's a completely different bike so I guess that's not too odd.

Like I mentioned mine wasn't a nut in there, it was actually a recessed area that I had to make a bit of a custom tool to hold. I guess Yamaha must have a specialty tool for it but I wasn't ready to drop the $$ on one :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yeah, I've managed to do all the work on this bike my own...and it was a lot of work, but these are getting me out of ideas. There probobly is a special tool that I dont have, and it will probobly take the honda shop 2 mins to take it apart. The other day I had a internal snap ring in the break cyclinder that I couldnt get out. I had all the parts ordered and couldnt get it apart. They ended up doing it for me for free, so hopefully I can get them to do the same with these forks.
 

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From the manual

5. Remove the front fork bolts and drain the shock absorber oil
6. with each fork bottom pipe held in a vice remove the socket head bolt using the allen head wrench and seperate the bottom pipe from the case
7. Remove the dust seal,48mm snap ring,and oil seal

That's about it for dis-assembly of the oil seal. of course they want you to put oil on the new seal before driving it in ,and they want you to use threadlocker on the allen head bolt.

I did not watch the video,so I apologize if this has already been covered. The only special tool used was a seal driver
 
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