Motorcycle Forum banner
1 - 20 of 22 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,286 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Trying to get new chain/sprocket combo (520 pitch - 15 front - 46 rear) on and appear to be a half link too long (or short).

First pic - Moving the adjusters all the way in is just this [ ] shy of getting it to where I can get to the next full inner link.

Second pic - I have to move the adjusters all the way to the edge of the "replace chain" zone to take up the extra slack.

I'm guessing I just need to get over my OCD and go with the latter setup but also want to make sure there is enough adjustment left to take up slack as the chain stretches...
Anyone else ever run into this issue? I swear I seem to have more issues that never get covered or encountered by the "It's so simple, only took me half an hour and I was falling down drunk!" crowd...








__
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,286 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Why don't you just remove 2 links of the chain?
The top pic is with the adjusters as far forward as they'll go. Two links would leave me half a link short. If I could get the axle just 1/8" more forward, it would work...
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,982 Posts
OK, I see what your saying now. I assume especially in the second pic, that's the adjustment including the slack in the chain. And not the adjustment position for an overly tight chain.
 

·
American Legion Rider
Joined
·
25,975 Posts
Is it hitting the adjuster screw or hitting something else keeping it from going further? I can't tell from the photos.
 

·
MODERATOR
2009 Ninja 500r
Joined
·
1,505 Posts
Bigger hammer needed?

Are those stock sprocket sizes, and I am assuming that you have changed the chain before?

I never thought about it I always just did it as short as I could and went with it.

Nothing wrong with OCD when dealing with brakes or things that can break you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,286 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
OK, I see what your saying now. I assume especially in the second pic, that's the adjustment including the slack in the chain. And not the adjustment position for an overly tight chain.
Correct. That is where it will be if I keep the chain "as is" and run it. It does allow for a bit more take up as the chain stretches... just not nearly as much as if it were to fit like stock...

Is it hitting the adjuster screw or hitting something else keeping it from going further? I can't tell from the photos.
Yes, I ran it in as far as it'll go and even went back a forth a few times hoping to get a little extra. Pulling the chain up to snug, it is so freaking close but it just isn't gonna make it. I think I'm just going to have to run it backed out but, man, it makes me :mad:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,286 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Bigger hammer needed?

Are those stock sprocket sizes, and I am assuming that you have changed the chain before?

I never thought about it I always just did it as short as I could and went with it.

Nothing wrong with OCD when dealing with brakes or things that can break you.
I wish that would work! I went down a tooth in the front and stayed stock in the rear. Nope, haven't done this before. Watched maybe 5 different vids on doing this and not a one addressed this issue. Don't know why but I seem to be a "hmmm, never seen THAT happen before" type of mechanic... :mad::LOL:
 
  • Like
Reactions: FlipFlop

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,286 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Used to be we used links, with the clip. Could get full size, and half size links.

UK
Yeah, it came with a clip link (full size only) but states it is specifically for off road bikes only and that sport bikes or dual sports need to use the riveted type...
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
9,867 Posts
Yes, modern thinking. I used to run a track bike at 140 every lap at Pacific Raceway. Never had a problem.
Have the link and clip on the XS400.

UK
 

·
American Legion Rider
Joined
·
25,975 Posts
Is it hitting the adjuster screw or hitting something else keeping it from going further? I can't tell from the photos.
Yes, I ran it in as far as it'll go and even went back a forth a few times hoping to get a little extra. Pulling the chain up to snug, it is so freaking close but it just isn't gonna make it. I think I'm just going to have to run it backed out but, man, it makes me :mad:
Then put a shorter bolt in temporarily until you get in broke in a bit. Then put the stock bolt back in. In fact you might get by, by removing the washer under the head of the bolt. Or it looks like a washer. But a shorter bolt will surely do the trick.
 
  • Like
Reactions: ketchboy

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,286 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Then put a shorter bolt in temporarily until you get in broke in a bit. Then put the stock bolt back in. In fact you might get by, by removing the washer under the head of the bolt. Or it looks like a washer. But a shorter bolt will surely do the trick.
I'll take a closer look and see if that might be a fix.

Thanks!
 

·
Visionary
Joined
·
5,266 Posts
Looking at the pictures, can you change the bolt / washer as others said to allow it to have just a bit more room? Your so close there...and you know that after 500 miles it will wear in and have some slack anyway.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
9,867 Posts
I would need to know how much slack is in the chain for both pics. However a lot of slack is taken out by not much axle movement. I am having trouble with the top pic. It seems you need quite a bit of forward movement of the axle, for that to work. You have a fix with the lower pic. Do that, ride for a few years, then consider removing a link.

UK
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,286 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Looking at the pictures, can you change the bolt / washer as others said to allow it to have just a bit more room? Your so close there...and you know that after 500 miles it will wear in and have some slack anyway.
Yes, I've decided that I'll run with it "as is" for now and, if it stretches at all, I should be able to tighten it up and get another link off it. If it doesn't stretch, well, then I'll just run it until it's done!

I would need to know how much slack is in the chain for both pics. However a lot of slack is taken out by not much axle movement. I am having trouble with the top pic. It seems you need quite a bit of forward movement of the axle, for that to work. You have a fix with the lower pic. Do that, ride for a few years, then consider removing a link.

UK
Yeah, both pics are with "appropriate" slack in the chain. I'll just run with the lower pic setup and see how it develops!

Appreciate all the insight! Thanks!
 

·
Ace Tuner
Joined
·
3,522 Posts
Looking at the top pic I'm thinking if you remove a link, that actually consists of two pieces, the chain will probably be too short.
The axle position in the bottom pic looks like you should have enough room for normal stretch as the chain wears.
The new chain will have some initial stretch as soon as you go out and throttle the bike a few times. Then you'll need to adjust it again. It shouldn't need to be adjusted for a quite a few miles after that.
I'm thinking your bike is a CBR 600. If it is then I'm thinking it must have come with a 525 chain originally. I usually change to a 530 when the machine came with a 525 because 530's usually cost less and last better than what you would expect if you change to a 520.
Of course a 520 will rob less HP at the ground than a 530 would... Probably the reason you're going with a 520, huh.
(There is no arguing about more power, it's needed). ;)

S F ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,286 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Looking at the top pic I'm thinking if you remove a link, that actually consists of two pieces, the chain will probably be too short.
The axle position in the bottom pic looks like you should have enough room for normal stretch as the chain wears.
The new chain will have some initial stretch as soon as you go out and throttle the bike a few times. Then you'll need to adjust it again. It shouldn't need to be adjusted for a quite a few miles after that.
I'm thinking your bike is a CBR 600. If it is then I'm thinking it must have come with a 525 chain originally. I usually change to a 530 when the machine came with a 525 because 530's usually cost less and last better than what you would expect if you change to a 520.
Of course a 520 will rob less HP at the ground than a 530 would... Probably the reason you're going with a 520, huh.
(There is no arguing about more power, it's needed). ;)

S F ?
A solid "Yes" to your whole post! (y)

I linked the chain up last night and there should be another inch or so of adjustment, if needed.

The F4i was the "slightly" less sport oriented version of the CBR. The stock chain/sprockets were 525 and lasted me a bit over 20,000, so I figured if a slightly lighter setup got me even half that mileage, I'd be happy!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,982 Posts
I would just be concerned whether the smaller chain has the proper tensile strength to match the power of your bike. I have always used RK chains. I know yours is not an RK, but I can't tell from the picture what brand it is. Some examples of chain applications.
https://rkexcelamerica.com/products/rk-chains/
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,286 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I would just be concerned whether the smaller chain has the proper tensile strength to match the power of your bike. I have always used RK chains. I know yours is not an RK, but I can't tell from the picture what brand it is. Some examples of chain applications.
https://rkexcelamerica.com/products/rk-chains/
It's a well known mod for this bike. Chain is rated up to 750cc/110 hp, so no worries there as I'm running 600cc/90-95 hp. Regardless, I'll be keeping a close eye on everything the first few hundred miles...
 
  • Like
Reactions: bpe
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
Top