Some bikes are very cold nature. If there are no other problems, let it warm up.
Exactly! All you really have to do is find out what the bike needs to start and warm up. If it takes 1,2, or 3 minutes, so what? Just 'listen' to the bike and give it what it wants.Yup. I've found that even two bikes of the same model and year will react differently on cold starts. So long as it runs and rides fine and you aren't choked for power, I'd just let it warm up.![]()
Nah, those were easy.Exactly! All you really have to do is find out what the bike needs to start and warm up. If it takes 1,2, or 3 minutes, so what? Just 'listen' to the bike and give it what it wants.
Actually, you are quite lucky. Try figuring out the starting sequence on an old kick start Harley. LOL. :grin:
Yeah, those things had a mind of their own. You even had to make them go where you wanted and couldn't text your buddy while riding. These new self-riding bikes are so much better. Wait...I maybe ahead of myself there. For the OP, leave it at half choke until it's warmed up well if you must immediately start riding. Just remember to open the choke all the way once you are underway. That may require doing two things at once though.Nah, those were easy.
All you had to do was set the timing with your left hand, give it the "right" amount of gas/throttle with your right hand and kick it while you adjust the timing with your left hand as you kick while also throttling it just the right amount, and at the right time, during the kick stroke.
Next you pick yourself up from the pavement and it's off to the doctor to get your broke leg set. :surprise:
Simple really... :icon_cool:
Some bikes are very cold nature. If there are no other problems, let it warm up.
YES!!! :grin: And if you have a rotary, you DO NOT want to run that engine unless you plan on actually driving/riding it. None of this starting it to move it then shutting it down. Rotaries hate cold starts with a cold shutdown.ALWAYS....let ANY engine warm up!
A very high %%%% of total engine wear, over the engines life, occurs at startup.
The second most wear occurs between startup and until the engine reaches operating temperature.
Example: When metal gets cold, it shrinks. So, you have a cold crankshaft and cold connecting rods...the gap between them is much bigger than when the engine is hot...so, while cold, they're pounding against each other..and to add to the disaster, the oil is cold and stiff and doesn't ready flow into the gap...lots of wear occurring.
If you want to absolutely minimize engine wear, then let the bike reach operating temp before riding it.
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Much of what is in an owners manual is a "starting point" for proper operation. Cold starts, the engineers worked out the procedure for a new bike in a test lab...is that your situation? Of course not, so you start with what they say and tune it to fit your situation.
Over 40 years of experience starting carbed bikes, here's a summary.
Below 50 degrees, especially with an "old" bike, use a quick dash of starting fluid. One of my bikes is 40 years old, starts instantly at ~70 degrees....impossible to freaking start at 50 degrees. I rigged/ran a small piece of fuel hose right to the carb intake, pull the cap off that hose, one puff of starting fluid, put the cap back on, hit start...she's run on the first revolution from the starter.
Well, yeah; you don't want to spray half the can in one shot. If a bike is hard to start cold, for whatever reason, a puff of starting fluid won't hurt anything. It comes out of the can as a vapor, burns right now, and gives the engine that first big breath needed to pull gas vapor in and get it running. Starting fluid is much better than cranking the daylights out of it. Sure, maybe there is a problem..it could just be weak gas, or the carbs are worn/damaged, ton o reasons, maybe no reason...don't drive yourself nuts or spend a fortune throwing parts at it...just a puff will do ya!Starting fluid can cause damage.
And I would think that even IF they shrink, it would be well within tolerance.
UK