[thedaydreamer]

Hi all
I have 2000 Intruder Vs1400

The bike has been running good, with some surgy idling and surgy low speed, but very fast,,,,recently it acts like it wants to stall, like the idle dips when you come to a stop
Since I have never fully cleaned carbs, I riped them both off bike for full cleaning, here is what I found in both diaphrams and acclerator pumps in both carbs, almost coffe ground debris, bowl and jets were clean,,,,,I put it all back together and it fired up but had some erratic rpms and dippy behavior,,,,heres my question
I hook the syc tool up and they were WAY off not even close,,,,,in the diagram of my carbs, when I fire the bike and use the sync tool no matter where I move "a" the sync cable nothing changes on the sync guage,,,,when I moved "b" the guages came into perfect sync,,,,,can someone tell me why "a" did nothing on the guage and its supposed to be the sync cable and why did "b" fixed and cleaned up the sync, am I missing something? Later today Ill go for a ride when I get the bike back together and report back,, can anyone tell me why this is?

 

[WintrSol]

Sounds like there is some tension on the throttle cable, and its not actually on he idle stops Try loosening the throttle at the grip, so it rotates freely some, then try the idle sync (a) again. Then raise the rpm with the throttle and set open-throttle sync with (b).

 

[thedaydreamer]

TY for answer
SO just loosen it with the nut at the throttle on the handle bars, make it just a bit loose?

How come b was setting the vaccum sync on idle? Are you saying that it should not do that and "a" should do it?

 

[WintrSol]

Yes, loosing the nut at the throttle, so there are several degrees of motion of the throttle grip.
The reason (b) is in control is because the throttle cable to the front carb is tight, and keeping it off the idle stop, so adjusting it makes the throttle move. Note that the rear carb may actually be on the idle stop; only way to tell is to turn the idle set knob and, if the idle changes, that carb's throttle cable is not too tight. Once you get the idle sync set with (a), matching the front carb to the rear (and reset the idle rpm), you will then have to adjust the open throttle sync by clamping the grip at about 3000rpm and adjusting (b). Once you get both set, the idle will be smooth, and there will be better throttle response and smooth running on the road.
After both syncs are done, you can reduce the amount of free motion in the grip, but turning the wheel to both limits should leave some free rotation, so it doesn't rev..

 

[thedaydreamer]

Hey win TY
So I just saw your last post,,,,, last night I took it for a ride without doing whats in your last post,one thing I do notice is that I did not initially loosen the throttle cable when I did this, however both carbs are on the idle stop when I look at it,,,,,,,,bike starts fine but idle is weak and slow, and some point 10mins in it picks up,,,bike is strong and fast with no hesitation or bog at any rpm,,, but low speed idle and riding is a little surgy,,,,SO if I am understand you correctly,,,loosed throttle play,,,,then "a" should move and sync the vaccum guages,,,,THEN open throttle to 3k and use "b" to adjust the vac guages,,,correct? so you are saything that on idle the guages should match AND when throtttle is open as well,,, Its funny the vac sync on the guage is perfect on idle, but when you rev the needles are not matching, so something is off,,,,Im dam close I feel to getting it all right,,,TY for the help and I will report back

 

[WintrSol]

Yes, that is the sequence. Because you used the front throttle so set sync at idle, that means it probably is just the front cable that is tight, which would be the cause of surging at low open throttle running and the unequal vacuum. When you turn the throttle, the front opens first, then the rear, making them way out of sync. The idle should be set to about 1000-1100rpm, so adjust it up using the knob on the rear carb, RH side. I use a hand held tach to measure rpm, but some add an aftermarket tach.

 

[thedaydreamer]

SO cable "a" the actual sync cable is moving the butterflys on BOTH carbs, and b just adjusts the front? You are saying in this case "a" did not adjust the idle sync because there was too much tension on the throttle cable, when when I adjusted B it brought the idle back in sync,,,,,,,,does the idle hand screw on the rear carb correspond in any way to the syc of the rear carb?

 

[WintrSol]

Idle sync cable A connects the idle setting of the rear carb -set by the hand screw, or knob - to the idle stop of the front carb, so you can change the idle rpm with only one control, as needed, without moving the carbs out of sync at idle. Although it has adjusters on both ends, it is recommended you adjust the length of cable A with adjuster (a), to match the idle settings. Tightening it by turning the outer shell of the adjuster CCW will reduce the vacuum of the front carb relative to that of the rear (and increase the rpm), while loosening the cable (adjuster CW) does the opposite.
Adjustments work the same for the throttle cables, which both have adjusters, but only (b) should be used to match the throttle position of the front carb to that of the rear carb when the grip is turned to open the throttles. Adjuster (b) should have no effect on the idle sync.
If there is tension on the front throttle cable when the grip is released, as evidenced by the fact that only (b) changes the throttle sync, the idle sync cable is not in control of the front carb idle stop and the idle rpm is being controlled by the throttle grip. In this condition, if you change the idle with the knob at the rear carb, the front carb won't change with it, and, assuming there is no tension on the rear carb's throttle cable, the idle will move out of sync again, and adjuster (a) still won't correct it. If there is tension on the rear carb's throttle cable, the knob won't change the idle.
It all starts with ensuring there is no tension on either throttle cable, that is to say, there is plenty of free rotation in the grip before you feel it begin to pull the throttle cable, so only the idle sync cable, and adjuster (a), controls the idle settings of both carbs. Once the idle sync is set, then you set the match of the tension in the throttle cables with the grip turned to raise the rpm above idle, so the throttles move at the same time when the grip is turned, keeping the throttles in sync throughout the open throttle operation. Setting the rpm to about 3000 is recommended because the vacuum difference is very sensitive there, but any rpm from 2500 to 3500 will do. After all this is done, then you can adjust the free motion in the throttle grip.

 

[thedaydreamer]

Hi win
So I loosened the throttle cable and the low speed sync worked on idle and I got it right, then I adjusted the open throttle perfect,,,,Bike starts and idles with great response,,BUT about 2 mins in the idle starts to go erratic and the guages are still even,,,it gets surgy and dips like it gona stall, the mix screws are set to manual 2 3/8 and 2 turns,,,,floats and jets are OEM manual spec,,,,,,Now the bike stalled and wont start anymore WTF,,,,,everything was fine but this surgy idle thats starts about 2 min in,,,,I have included some videos,,,,what do you think is going on?

 

[WintrSol]

Rpm set too low?
Also, you set the pilot screws WAY to rich, assuming the air filters are stock. Front should be 2 turns and rear 1 turn. I set them about 1/8 to 1/4 turn more if the weather is going to be cool. Make sure the starting enrichment valves ('choke') are closing all the way.

 

[thedaydreamer]

The manual I have says to set the screws to 2 3/8 and 2,,,I am going by this,,,Im trying to send u a video, can u upload vids here?

 

[thedaydreamer]

Hey win
Here is what i got now,,,,as like before when i was tuning the bike, the idle got strange and stalled,,,,,never started again
I checked spark at each plug was good,,,compression is good and I disconnect the fuel pump from the rear carb and hooked a test line and push button you hear hear the clicking and the fuel comes out, likewise when Icrank the bike,,,,,so now all this bike does is crank with no signs of wanting to start, shot fuel into the throttle body and no dice,,,is there a kick stand kill or some kind of fuse or ANYTHING that would do this, I have spark compression and fuel, yet no hint of starting, this bike never had this issue,,,,what should I try next? TY 4 all the help

 

[WintrSol]

The side stand switch, if in gear, should keep the engine from cranking and starting by disabling the ignition and the starter motor. When the side stand is up, or the neutral light is on, the side stand relay sends power to both. Your wiring diagram is the same as the '96 model, as it didn't change again until '04. If you want, if you send me your email via PM, I can send you a pdf copy of the diagram, so you can check it out.

BTW, that chart is for a different bike; not only is that for the Canadian version, it has to be a different year than the 2000 model. For the 2000 year model Canadian version, the settings would be 1-1/6 rear and 1-3/4 front. This is per the factory service manual, page 20-8. Because the jets are the same, I don't know why the settings would differ between the different country models. Note that, while it shows settings for some models, it just shows 'pre-set' for the US models. Which manual is that from?

 

[thedaydreamer]

Its this manual here View Of Vs1400Glf - Suzuki Intruder VS1400 Service Manual [Page 3]

DO you have an email or somewhere I can send these short videos? It shows exactly how the bike was sounding before it stopped working

 

[SemiFast]

as like before when i was tuning the bike, the idle got strange and stalled,,,,,never started again

The pic with coffee grounds in the top of the carburetor looks like what you get after a black foam air filter falls apart due to age.
Are you sure you got all of that stuff out of every Air and Fuel Passage inside the carburetors?

S F

 

[thedaydreamer]

when I got the bike it had NO foam filters and im assuming they rode it around,,,,when I looked into the airboxes they were both caked with debis, similiar to this,I cleaned it all up,,,,I put in new foam filters and rode the bike great,,,,just some bizarre surgy idle, but hella fast with no issues on throttle,,,,I rode it for 2 months before getting into the carbs fully, I spot cleaned the jets initially, but this is the first time I cleaned them fully, I took them both apart and fully cleaned them for sure,,,,,,bike fired right up,,,,,it stalled on todays tuning session and did not restart,,,,it feels like gas is not getting into the head, there is no signs of it popping just strong cranking,,,,should I take it all apart again and inspect or should I go some other router to see why it wont start?

 

[WintrSol]

While that is the factory manual, it is only the core manual, and doesn't include the supplements for the model years from '88 (GLJ) through '06 (K6, aka the S83). Lots of changes in those years.

 

[WintrSol]

Are you talking the round style foam filters or OEM type? You can get OEM type filters, that won't mess with the mixture, here: https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/suzuki/motorcycle/2000/intruder-vs1400glp

 

[thedaydreamer]

yes the foam OEM ones