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Discussion Starter #1
When i disassembled the carb i used carb cleaner in a can with the straw.
I wanted to use a Chem-Dip in the large can and soak it for about an hour in a Chem-dip. Could not find any Chem-dip carb and parts cleaner. It has been discontinued here in CA. Cannot get it.
I might take it apart again and do a clean again.
Do you feel a Chem-dip is best or is the carb cleaner in the can ok to clean out the small passages in the motorcycle carb?
Do have any better ideas on how to do a good clean on a carb other than a carb cleaner in a can and straw?
 

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I actually think an aerosol spray can works better for smaller spaces - I think it drives fluid through the smaller jets better. Compressed air is great, too.

Have you tried boiling a carb? Works great!
 

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Being new to carbs, I have no idea if the above statement is a joke...

I can't take all the plastic off of my carbs so I can't just set it in carb cleaner but my local shop recommended that I use spray. It's whether or not I do them today, or in a couple months (she's winterized).

Wear long sleeves and good gloves. That stuff is very caustic.
 

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Nope, not a joke. Some folks add pine-sol or lemon juice to the water to help, but basically you boil the carb body for X amount of time until you think it's clean and clear. I've done it before and it worked well, but I still prefer the traditional method.

It's a neat trick to have in your tool bag I guess - look it up.

Edit: Do be careful with whatever method you use. Plastic bits - or anything that will melt due to heat or chemical reaction - should be removed if possible. Plastic bushings, felt seals, etc will all dissolve with carb cleaner or dip, so be careful. If you wreck these it will introduce air leaks into the carb which can really mess with things. That's one reason I don't use carb dips, personally, unless I'm sure these have all been removed.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
yeah, gentlemen, thanks.....some recommend the dip and some the spray can......i ran it out of gas then put some gas in and it had starting and idle problem.
It already had some problems with starting and leaking gas in the "prime" and "on" position......took it apart it had a worn out float jet and the overall condition was dirty.....
did a cleanout 2x because it still had some problems with idle..... the main jet is working ok. it does a have a small flat spot near full throttle but it's ok for now.....i used the spray can because i can shoot the cleaner through the passages but maybe some dirt is still stuck in an idle circuit passage.....i dunno yet, but thanks for any suggestions
Does anybody out there have a Suzuki DR200se and what did you do solve the carb and jetting problems in the pilot and the main.....
the carb is a Mikuni BST31ss single.
 

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Yeah, be careful not only with carb cleaner but with brake cleaner. A buddy from the local shop with a lifetime exposure to this stuff now has psoratic? arthritis. He swells up like a balloon, joints don't work.... gloves, good airflow....2nd guy I know with long-term exposure to solvents to go this way...

And to think some kids huff this stuff.... and I used to wash my hands in the part cleaner ...
 

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Carb cleaner

Pine sol is a farmers way of doing it.
Air pressure to blow thru the holes.
If it is quite hot and dry, and you do not have air, then water pressure can work. Water will dry out quickly.

Unkle Crusty*
 

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A buddy just recommended I soak my carbs in pine sol also. He didn't have a time window though. Will anyone entertain us a time?
 

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Cleaner

This has no issues with rubber and plastic parts correct?

If so, thank you UK.
That is the theory. I have not tried this. But consider all the pieces must be built to survive gas. The pine sol might be less caustic. I am wondering if a google search would reveal the original source of this.

Unkle Crusty
 

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We soaked my carbs overnight in Pine Sol. For safety we took the rubber stuff off. It worked really well. But, I believe a couple other members said about 4 hours. Good luck to you.
 

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I use Sea foam in the fuel as a stabilizer(Bikes, boat and lawn equipment), it helps keep things clean and stabilizes the fuel for long time storage.
I let my quad sit to long without stabilizer, now have to do a carb clean as it wont idle. Running sea foam "strong" has helped but its not the real fix. I am going to have to rip the carb off and do a thorough cleaning. I may give the pine sol a go this time!
 

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So when people talk about adding stabilizer to their gas for the Winter, seafoam is one way to do it? Do you need to let the bike sit for a while after putting it in, or can you ride it tomorrow?
 

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Seafoam will stabilize the fuel. You can ride with it in the mix at any time. It's best to keep the fuel tank full during storage to prevent corrosion in the tank.
 

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Seafoam will work for winterizing, but its main purpose is to break down varnishes it seems.

Well I would note that it is also important that you use something specificially designed for fuel storage like Stabil fuel treatment for prolonged storage. If you have a can of seafoam sitting around, sure use it. Stabil costs less per fl. oz then seafoam.
 

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So when people talk about adding stabilizer to their gas for the Winter, seafoam is one way to do it? Do you need to let the bike sit for a while after putting it in, or can you ride it tomorrow?
Ride it! I add it and ride it to be sure it is through the entire fuel system. I do ride through out the winter weather permitting, so I personally never really formally winterize my bike. I keep the tank full for the winter, adding the appropriate amount of Sea Foam to the fuel after each fill up. I usually will run the carbs dry before I park the bike. Haven't had a problem. I just personally like Sea Foam but several of my friends use the Stabil that is formulated for Ethanol fuels and have enjoyed success with those products as well.
 
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