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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Apologize for bad grammar
So i have a Suzuki GS500E (1992 model). One of the previous owners destroyed the screw thread in 2 camshaft holder cups (circled in the picture) and the oil leaked because the bad screws. So i replaced that 2 cup, but now the camshaft tights in there and moving pretty hard. I know they are drilled together with the cylinder head but i don`t want to replace that and i hope i can do something else.
Thanks if you read! :)
61174
 

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Those cups are supposed to go back in the exact position.
Example: When you remove the A cup you need to replace it in the A cup position. When you remove the C cup (my personal preference) it needs to go back in the C cup position. Even though these are the exact same parts.
So my question is:
Can't you use the original cups and just replace the bolts?
 

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Be advised:
Even if you have cup A in the proper cup A position. It has to go in the same direction and not be flip flopped 180 degrees.
That's never good
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I replaced the A with A and C with C in the position the 2 old were in.
The problem is not with the bolts it’s with the cups thread.
 

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OK, I must have misunderstood. I assume the "bad threads" you refer to are the ones in the head. But if you are getting a proper torque on them, I'm not sure why they would be a clamped down too tight scenario.
If I remember correctly the correct procedure for putting those back on also requires coating the contact area where the cams go with engine oil. Of coarse this would be for my modal bike, yours may vary.
Are you following manual instructions while doing this?
There should also be a specific tightening sequence when torqueing the bolts down.
 

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and the oil leaked because the bad screws. So i replaced that 2 cup, but now the camshaft tights
So you are saying the threads in the top of the cup (for the cam cover screws) are stripped so you replaced that cup with a salvage or used cup that was from a different engine. Yes?

As I believe you already know those cam journals are line bored. Every engine's cam journal will be bored a little different so using a cam cap from a different engine will likely result in the problem you describe. (Or some other).
I'm thinking find a welder, a very good aluminum welder, and have him weld some material in the original cap's stripped screw hole then drill and tap new treads for the cam cover screws.
My best idea as to what to do... Might work.

S F
 

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Bottom line it.
If you look at the bolt in the diagram, part#4. The way I'm understanding it is you replaced the part that it clamps down with a completely different part. Is this correct?
 

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Bottom line it.
If you look at the bolt in the diagram, part#4. The way I'm understanding it is you replaced the part that it clamps down with a completely different part. Is this correct?
I believe the part was identical but from a different engine that is identical to the one with the screwed up cap.
Even when you use the exact same part (cap / cup) from an engine that is the exact same engine as the one you've got you can not expect the cam cap to have been machined exactly the same as the one you are replacing.
The reason is the bearing surface (cap with head) is line bored with the cap in place. There is no reason to believe that two different engines will be bored exactly the same. It could happen but it would be a fluke if it did.
Am I correct about the part (cup) that you installed OdyHun?

S F
 

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I replaced the A with A and C with C in the position the 2 old were in.
The problem is not with the bolts it’s with the cups thread.
I believe the part was identical but from a different engine that is identical to the one with the screwed up
That is what I originally thought. But to me that quote from @OdyHun either indicates something to the contrary or he's simply not understanding that you can not just swap those parts out with different ones.
There is a reason why they don't even have part numbers. Suzuki is not going to sell you a new part that they know won't work.
 

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Which leads me back to an earlier question of mine. Why would we be changing it to begin with? I'm not seeing how those parts are the problem anyway.
 

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So you are saying the threads in the top of the cup (for the cam cover screws) are stripped
Why would we be changing it to begin with? I'm not seeing how those parts are the problem anyway
In the top of the cup / cap there are threads for a screw that holds the cam cover in place. Those threads are stripped out.
Because oil is pumped to the bearing surface (cam journal, with cap) the screw that holds the cam cover down must have a seal.
So the stripped threads in the cap are the problem.... Don't you see.

S F
 

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I guess I don't see. On my Ninja the only treads to hold that down are in the head its self. And even in the diagram in the first post, the bolt that holds it down would suggest the same thing (part #4).
 

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It's kinda hard to tell when looking at the diagram but part #4 is one of two bolts that secure the cap to the head.
In the top, middle of the cap you can see a raised nipple looking thing. That is where there is a threaded boss for the cam cover screws, and where the threads are stripped.
The cam cover screws are not shown in the diagram.

S F.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I believe the part was identical but from a different engine that is identical to the one with the screwed up cap.
Even when you use the exact same part (cap / cup) from an engine that is the exact same engine as the one you've got you can not expect the cam cap to have been machined exactly the same as the one you are replacing.
The reason is the bearing surface (cap with head) is line bored with the cap in place. There is no reason to believe that two different engines will be bored exactly the same. It could happen but it would be a fluke if it did.
Am I correct about the part (cup) that you installed OdyHun?

S F
As you said it.
What I`m gonna do now is search a good aluminium welder, but it`s gonna be hard in these times...
 

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It's kinda hard to tell when looking at the diagram but part #4 is one of two bolts that secure the cap to the head.
In the top, middle of the cap you can see a raised nipple looking thing. That is where there is a threaded boss for the cam cover screws, and where the threads are stripped.
The cam cover screws are not shown in the diagram.

S F.
OK, I think I'm up to speed then.
 
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