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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Ok I watched the video
the womp womp womp sound was scary. almost as much as the traffic.
The chain is stretched enough that I'm out of available range on the swingarm to adjust it and the links are all sticking, and its got at least 2" of slack in it. It was in pretty bad shape when I got the bike. Im 90% sure its the chain making that noise because it increases with the speed of the bike but does not match the speed of the more rapid rotation of the wheels. The noise doesn't really match anything else and its mostly just on throttle.
 

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I have one of these on a bike that I built a swingarm for (+8") and it works exellent. has some adjustment in roller position, and can be used as a clamp on type mount anywhere along the swingarm. good spring tension as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·

I have one of these on a bike that I built a swingarm for (+8") and it works exellent. has some adjustment in roller position, and can be used as a clamp on type mount anywhere along the swingarm. good spring tension as well.
That definitely looks like a simple solution. I still need to replace this chain, though. Also, because its an older bike, its not a sealed o ring chain, so that was certainly a factor in why its so degraded. There was a ton of rust all over the bike from sitting when I got it.
 

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That definitely looks like a simple solution. I still need to replace this chain, though. Also, because its an older bike, its not a sealed o ring chain, so that was certainly a factor in why its so degraded. There was a ton of rust all over the bike from sitting when I got it.

Yes I definatly recomend a new chain, but this will get you thru the rest of the riding season...(y)
 

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I bought the aluminum one, polished it out better, then clear coated it. I seperated the two pieces and esd the square plate mount as a mount for an upper "nylon" chain slider, and then mountet the hinged roller for the bottom chain slack tensioner. So its a one piece part, that I made to work as two different uses. When i built the swingarm, I made the flat plate able to just be bolted straight to the swinger. no nuts, just two stainless hex head bolts and washers.

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That definitely looks like a simple solution. I still need to replace this chain, though. Also, because its an older bike, its not a sealed o ring chain, so that was certainly a factor in why its so degraded. There was a ton of rust all over the bike from sitting when I got it.
So basically if you took one of my old used dirt bike chains and put it on your bike it would be an upgrade. That kills your sprockets real fast. I bet you are due for new sprockets and wheel bearings and maybe even some repair to the sprocket cushion drive if it has one.

... you know, you are suppose to replace chain once it's bagged out by only 3%
That's like, 3 links on a 100 link chain, which is actually a lot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
So basically if you took one of my old used dirt bike chains and put it on your bike it would be an upgrade. That kills your sprockets real fast. I bet you are due for new sprockets and wheel bearings and maybe even some repair to the sprocket cushion drive if it has one.

... you know, you are suppose to replace chain once it's bagged out by only 3%
That's like, 3 links on a 100 link chain, which is actually a lot.
Its definitely bad, I oiled it real good with thick motor oil and no change in noise so Im going to stop riding it. I usually just use the dry lube on the o ring chains. I took another video today and while it sounded much quieter while riding, it sounded just as loud in the video.

I also tried to exaggerate the stutter and it will happen at any RPM below 3000 or so. The more throttle you give it, the less it goes, so that to me suggests a fueling problem at every level. More throttle = more air but not enough fuel for combustion. Anyway, I made sure I went wide open throttle and I could actually get it to stall with enough throttle angle. You can see I literally got stuck in acceleration purgatory, searching for gears, when that truck almost pulled out on me.

 

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You have a terrible motorcycle test track.
... and it still sounds like the roar of bad wheel bearings from here. The chain will cost you all of 80 bucks and the wheel bearings maybe another 40, I think it might be money well invested. Hopefully your sprockets have enough teeth left on them to actually work & holy be careful out there because yes, your engine does not sound at all happy in low revs, almost like you have a cylinder dropping out occasionally.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
You have a terrible motorcycle test track.
... and it still sounds like the roar of bad wheel bearings from here. The chain will cost you all of 80 bucks and the wheel bearings maybe another 40, I think it might be money well invested. Hopefully your sprockets have enough teeth left on them to actually work & holy be careful out there because yes, your engine does not sound at all happy in low revs, almost like you have a cylinder dropping out occasionally.
I think the wheels are spinning too fast for the noise to be wheel bearings. The rhythm doesn't match up. The noise would be rapid if it were wheel bearings. If I pull the clutch all the noise goes away. Seems to only make noise under chain load. And the brakes do not induced the noise. The sprockets look fine to me.

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Looks like the rear still has some teeth, the front wears faster. Scrap the chain.
Grab that wheel at a the back and rock it side to side, watch for any change in the chain tension that's a sure sign of either wheel bearing or swingarm bearing problems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Looks like the rear still has some teeth, the front wears faster. Scrap the chain.
Grab that wheel at a the back and rock it side to side, watch for any change in the chain tension that's a sure sign of either wheel bearing or swingarm bearing problems.
I did check for any play in the rear wheel yesterday when I was oiling and it was good. Ive seen the front sprocket in the last 500 miles when I was digging through the clutch, trying to find why it was slipping. The rod that releases the clutch is behind the sprocket cover. It looked the same as the rear.
 

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I think the wheels are spinning too fast for the noise to be wheel bearings. The rhythm doesn't match up. The noise would be rapid if it were wheel bearings. If I pull the clutch all the noise goes away. Seems to only make noise under chain load. And the brakes do not induced the noise. The sprockets look fine to me.

View attachment 70246
Look under the swingarm where the chain rides, if you see any scraping or galging marks it is surely chain slap..

Also the swingarm looks to be from a different year fzr, the 1989 swinger was a straight square, it did not flare to a larger size. it was litterally the same square size from the mount point to the ends.

 

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I did check for any play in the rear wheel yesterday when I was oiling and it was good. Ive seen the front sprocket in the last 500 miles when I was digging through the clutch, trying to find why it was slipping. The rod that releases the clutch is behind the sprocket cover. It looked the same as the rear.
I have converted mine to a Ducati slave cylinder and is now a hydraulic clutch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Look under the swingarm where the chain rides, if you see any scraping or galging marks it is surely chain slap..

Also the swingarm looks to be from a different year fzr, the 1989 swinger was a straight square, it did not flare to a larger size. it was litterally the same square size from the mount point to the ends.
Mine is 1998 model year. When I said 1989, I just meant that is when the bike and the technology the electronics the bike runs on was designed. I just meant that its more primitive and might just be generally horrible.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
I have converted mine to a Ducati slave cylinder and is now a hydraulic clutch.
I've never used a hydraulic setup on a motorcycle. Since I've had to add washers and stiffer springs stop the clutch slip the lever pull is a lot stiffer. Id love to reduce that.

On my FZ09 I was able to reduce the lever pressure for $10. The Yamaha R3 has a longer lever for its similar clutch rod and it swaps right over to other bikes.
 

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If you look on the inside of the fzr left side cover, you will find a lver with a spring, that your cable attaches to.
also in the cover you will find a perfectly round recess. this recess is what you cut out for the ducati slave cylinder to seat into. then you just rotate the slave cylinder so the bleed fitting os top side. mark the holes for the slave mounting bolts, drill them out and that parts done.

yours is the newr cover (sprocket cover) and has a big black circle on the outside. this is the area that is modified to accept the slave cylinder.
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
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Yes, I refer to all yzf 600 as the r6, they are the basic same bike, with minor changes. Sorry for not clarifying...

Thanks.

I found a new set on ebay for $47.

But Im thinking, after the whole ordeal with the crank sensor on my car, I'm wondering if it could be more of the same. It still doesn't seem logical for throttle angle to play a huge role if its the coil packs. However, bad ignition timing seems like its possible, to me.
 
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