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Discussion Starter #1
MY problem is I am blowing main fuse (glass fuse). It happened once before after I had ridden for over an hour or so. It blew as I was coasting to a stop sign. I replaced the fuse and it didn't happen again on that ride. Today it blew after about 1 1/2 hours of riding. It blew as I coasted to stop sign. But this time it kept blowing at every stop sign until I started revving it up as I coasted to stop. Any ideas on what is happening? Thanks
 

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Any ideas on what is happening? Thanks
Yes. You likely have a wire somewhere that is pinched against the frame or with the insulation rubbed off and it only makes good contact (shorts out) when the weight of you and the bike settles forward when coming to a stop.

It also could be a brake light wire shorting out when you apply the brakes.....but I'd think that should blow another fuse and not the main one.

Check under the seat, under the gas tank and around the fuse box.....as those are common areas to have pinched wires.

I wish you luck. This probably won't be easy to find.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Easy Rider2, but the fact that it happens after bike has been ridden a while before it happens and the fact that revving the engine does make a difference makes me think something different that just a pinched wire. But I do appreciate your advice and will give a look at my wires.
 

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but the fact that it happens after bike has been ridden a while before it happens and the fact that revving the engine does make a difference makes me think something different that just a pinched wire.
You could be right. It could be something like the regulator shorting out or even the ignition system BUT........

Metal expands when it heats up and something that is pinched just gets pinched tighter. Also vibrations can make things short out only at certain engine speeds.

Odds ARE that it is something simple.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
You could be right. It could be something like the regulator shorting out or even the ignition system BUT........

Metal expands when it heats up and something that is pinched just gets pinched tighter. Also vibrations can make things short out only at certain engine speeds.

Odds ARE that it is something simple.
I am going to check out my wiring. Certainly should be the first thing I do (also the cheapest)
 

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I checked the wiring diagram for the 360, and the headlite and tail light are not on the main fuse.
A place you may want to check first is around the starter solenoid,battery and the wires and connections that are close to it. My bike had a ton of corrosion there,and there was so little clean copper left to conduct the current that the wires got hot and a thermal fuse melt occurred --not from a dead short,but just from fat wires becoming skinny due to corrosion. It seems that I remember other 360 guys having fuse issues caused by bad fuse holders in the fuse box itself
Might be a place to start looking...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I checked the wiring diagram for the 360, and the headlite and tail light are not on the main fuse.
A place you may want to check first is around the starter solenoid,battery and the wires and connections that are close to it. My bike had a ton of corrosion there,and there was so little clean copper left to conduct the current that the wires got hot and a thermal fuse melt occurred --not from a dead short,but just from fat wires becoming skinny due to corrosion. It seems that I remember other 360 guys having fuse issues caused by bad fuse holders in the fuse box itself
Might be a place to start looking...
Thanks for looking at the wiring diagram. I'm like you. I don't see that the headlights are on the main fuse, but last nite I took the main fuse out and headlights and everything else would not come on. I also in my looking around noticed that that if I moved the connector near the fuse box, the headlight would go on and off. I cleaned as best I could a couple of terminals that looked corroded and the lights stayed on even if I moved the connector around. Could that poor connection be enough to blow the fuse? It is so strange that it blows while coasting or coming to a stop.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I started thinking that since it happened while coming to a stop sign, maybe it was related to applying brakes, but if I revved the engine, it did not blow so I started thinking it was related to something else. I just realized that if i am revving, I'm not braking (not front brake anyway). So I looked at the front stop switch. One of the wires fits very loose so is it possible that that loose connection is causing the fuse to blow? Also, what is the best way to make this barrel terminal fit better (pliers?)
 

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One of the wires fits very loose so is it possible that that loose connection is causing the fuse to blow? Also, what is the best way to make this barrel terminal fit better (pliers?)
Maybe and yes.
LOOSE wires usually don't blow fuses.....unless they are SO loose that they flop around and touch bare metal ground somewhere. Use the pliers gently...while the barrel is OFF the plug.

Seems like I remember someone suggesting the brake light thing back about post #2 or so..........:biggrin:

You might want to check the brake light bulb socket for corrosion......and while you have it apart, put in a new bulb. They can short internally sometimes.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Maybe and yes.
LOOSE wires usually don't blow fuses.....unless they are SO loose that they flop around and touch bare metal ground somewhere. Use the pliers gently...while the barrel is OFF the plug.

Seems like I remember someone suggesting the brake light thing back about post #2 or so..........:biggrin:

You might want to check the brake light bulb socket for corrosion......and while you have it apart, put in a new bulb. They can short internally sometimes.
Yes you did mention the brake light, didn't you? I guess I kept thinking it couldn't be that since it didn't blow when I revved the engine. LOL. This terminal is mighty loose. I'm surprised it hasn't vibrated off. I might check the bulb light, but the guy I bought it from had recently put on new low profile brake lights so I'm kinda doubting that, but if fixing my loose connection doesn't solve it, I will look into that. (or maybe I just shouldn't stop at redlights)
 

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Back to the manual

"the sub fuses 7 A and are one for the headlight and one for the position light, tail light and meter lamp, to make it easier to find circuit failure [now here is the strange part] Even if the 7 A fuses are burnt down, the horn, turn signals ignition switch and stop switches are operated normally.However it is recommended that the cause be located before the fuse is replaced"
So I guess what the manual is saying is that if the 7A fuses get blown,the main fuse takes over an additional load. If this were my bike,I would verify that the little fuses still work and have continuity.[you cannot always tell that a fuse is bad just by looking] If one or both of them are blown,it will add an additional load to the main fuse.
Of course,it also sounds like you have some wiring issues to address,and it sounds like you are well on your way with Easy R helping you with that
 

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Discussion Starter #12
"the sub fuses 7 A and are one for the headlight and one for the position light, tail light and meter lamp, to make it easier to find circuit failure [now here is the strange part] Even if the 7 A fuses are burnt down, the horn, turn signals ignition switch and stop switches are operated normally.However it is recommended that the cause be located before the fuse is replaced"
So I guess what the manual is saying is that if the 7A fuses get blown,the main fuse takes over an additional load. If this were my bike,I would verify that the little fuses still work and have continuity.[you cannot always tell that a fuse is bad just by looking] If one or both of them are blown,it will add an additional load to the main fuse.
Of course,it also sounds like you have some wiring issues to address,and it sounds like you are well on your way with Easy R helping you with that
I will definitely check out my 7A fuses. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Well I still have my fuse problem. 1.5 hour ride on friday, no problems, longer ride today, fuse blowing a lot. I checked the 7 amp fuses, they are good, but discovered they were 15 amp. Still blows as coasting to stop (after 2 hour ride or more)whether i apply brakes are not. For some reason, revving the engine keeps it from blowing. I did determine, it appears previous owner when he added new taillight may have wired wrong. When headlight is on. taillight 1 should light, apply brake and brighter taillight 2 should come on. This one doesn't. When brake applied it just makes taillight 1 go a little brighter. I hooked up old taillight and it performed the way i expected. Very strange is that while I was on the side of the road, I replaced fuse and turned on headlight to drain battery a little thinking it had over charged, a minute later with the bike sitting still, main fuse blew. One other thing, when I put ign in position 2 where back taillight comes on, it does,.If i apply brake, taillight 2 comes on. I am thinking he has Gr/yel wire hooked to where Brown wire should go. Would this cause fuse to blow? I may put old tailight on and run for a while and see if problem goes away.
 

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I checked the 7 amp fuses, they are good, but discovered they were 15 amp.
WELL........now we have a clue !!
First, replace those with the proper 7 amp ones.

That may make the problem look different; if one of the 7A fuses blows INSTEAD of the main fuse, you may lose one sub-system without blowing the main fuse and having everything go out.

If that happens, then you will know where to concentrate your search.
At this point, I think the tail light wiring is gonna be a REAL good bet.

P.S. Probably should verify what the proper size fuses really IS first. :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #15
WELL........now we have a clue !!
First, replace those with the proper 7 amp ones.

That may make the problem look different; if one of the 7A fuses blows INSTEAD of the main fuse, you may lose one sub-system without blowing the main fuse and having everything go out.

If that happens, then you will know where to concentrate your search.
At this point, I think the tail light wiring is gonna be a REAL good bet.

P.S. Probably should verify what the proper size fuses really IS first. :thumbsup:
One thing to add. I took wiring diagram and by design, if I added correctly, main switch needs to handle 155 watts max, which I show is 12.9 amps. However, bike has 2 double filament bulbs instead of the design of (1) 27/8 watt and he has new headlight (he called it H-4 bulb which may be more than 50 watts on Honda wiring diagram). This could make max current thru fuse 4 amps more, I think which comes to about 17 amps. Could it be that I need to use 20 amp fuse for main fuse? Since my problem occurs after 2 hours or more of riding, could wires be getting hot from that. Also, since it still only goes dead while I am coasting to stop, could voltage regulator be adding some current since bike is not needing as much current as when I am revving the engine (it still doesn't go dead if I rev then engine as I come to a stop and I mean revving pretty high). Thanks
 

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One thing to add.
Yes to most or all of that.
What size is the main fuse now ??
Most I have seen are 25 or 30 A.

I still suggest that you put ALL the fuses back to "normal" first and see what happens. That might prove your theory.....and you may need to up the main by 5A and one or two others by an amp or two.

This whole thing makes me nervous though. The extra electrical load that you have may be more than the alternator can keep up with.......and your battery may slowly go dead over time. It is also possible that your ignition switch may overheat.

I don't think the extra tail/brake light bulb is really a problem (if it's wired right) but the bigger headlight bulb might cause all kinds of trouble.....including "cooking" parts in the headlight assy.
The bulb socket, and maybe other parts too, weren't designed to deal with the extra heat.

[edit] maybe the extra heat from the headlight bulb is causing a short (melted insulation or fried bulb socket) after running for a couple of hours.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Yes to most or all of that.
What size is the main fuse now ??
Most I have seen are 25 or 30 A.

I still suggest that you put ALL the fuses back to "normal" first and see what happens. That might prove your theory.....and you may need to up the main by 5A and one or two others by an amp or two.

This whole thing makes me nervous though. The extra electrical load that you have may be more than the alternator can keep up with.......and your battery may slowly go dead over time. It is also possible that your ignition switch may overheat.

I don't think the extra tail/brake light bulb is really a problem (if it's wired right) but the bigger headlight bulb might cause all kinds of trouble.....including "cooking" parts in the headlight assy.
The bulb socket, and maybe other parts too, weren't designed to deal with the extra heat.

[edit] maybe the extra heat from the headlight bulb is causing a short (melted insulation or fried bulb socket) after running for a couple of hours.
I will check on headlight bulb. He did replace the whole headlight assembly so it should be ok from design standpoint. It is also not what I would call a terribly bright headlight so it may not be more watts than original eqpt. Since I ride only in daytime, I plan to make sure I keep it on low beam. I'm going to take some voltage readings to make sure I am not overcharging. (Readings at idle and up to 5000 rpms to make sure I am below 14.4 at idle and 14.9 at elevated rpm)
I've though about getting a circuit breaker in place of glass fuse because i think it is a temporary surge that's blowing fuse since it only happens while I am idling. What do you think about that?
You asked about the main fuse, it is 15 amp and the headlight fuse is 7 amp
 

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You asked about the main fuse, it is 15 amp and the headlight fuse is 7 amp
Is that per the book ?? 15A for a main fuse sounds low to me.

And no, I don't agree with the breaker bit. You need to find the problem and fix it before it blows the whole electrical system or starts a fire.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Is that per the book ?? 15A for a main fuse sounds low to me.

And no, I don't agree with the breaker bit. You need to find the problem and fix it before it blows the whole electrical system or starts a fire.
15 amp is per the book and is what I have been using for the main fuse.
 
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