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I recently purchased a 1996 Suzuki GSF600 as my first bike. The bike has 21000 miles on it and wasn't running correctly when I bought it, but it started. The seller told me that the float needle valves needed to be replaced. I replaced them today, and when I went to start the bike it turned over, ran for a second, and died. I tried to start it again and it wouldn't. After a couple tries, the engine wouldn't turn over and I heard a rapid clicking/buzz. I waited a few minutes, tried again, and it turned over but wouldn't start. Any ideas on what I need to adjust or what I could have done incorrectly that would cause this?
 

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The starter/solenoid clicking sound like a weak or dead battery to me. Fully charged is 12.6 volts or more, 50% discharged is 12.3V. Charge it and try again.

Is your fuel petcock open? Vaccum line to your fuel petcock/pump connected? Tank full of gas?

Sure sounds like it ran out of fuel.

Next, go to this thread for no-start diagnosis...

http://www.motorcycleforum.com/showthread.php?p=1218210#post1218210
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you!

I put a gallon of fuel in right before I tried starting it. I noticed the petcock leaks a little bit of fuel when on the "On" setting, but if I turn it to "Reserve" it doesn't. Could the petcock have a vacuum leak on "Reserve" even though it doesn't leak gas?

I'll try charging the battery before anything else though. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I just got the new petcock in the mail and it looks different from the one that was on the bike. It has an outlet for the fuel hose, but there isn't an outlet for the vacuum hose. Do I need a different petcock or is it possible that the new one doesn't require the vacuum hose?
 

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If you do away with the vacumn line, you will have to buy a nipple to put on the carb where the vacumn line would go, to close it off. I've done away with the vacumn part of my bike.
 

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First check your battery, when the starter engages the voltage should not drop below 10.5 volts, if it does you may not be getting a hot enough spark.

I believe the vacuum line is designed to shut the fuel off when the engine isn't running.

If you have a good hot battery check to make sure you are getting fuel to the carbs. If you have ANY fuel leaks don't run it until they are repaired. You don't want to be sitting on a bike when it catches on fire.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I charged the battery and installed the new petcock. I just clamped the vacuum line shut. The bike started up right away. I let it run in my driveway for a little while and everything sounded good. I turned it off and put the fairings and the seat back on. I go to start it up again and "CLICK". When I press the start button I just hear a single, pretty loud click and then nothing. It doesn't want to turn over. Is there anything I could have messed up while putting the bodywork on? I made sure the battery is still charged. :confused:
 

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Make sure in didn't crimp any air lines while putting the bodywork back in place, I've done that before and caused it to not start. Maybe check to make sure you didn't kill your battery while idling it or messing around. You may need a new battery, you might be able to take it somewhere like AutoZone and have it tested for free.
 

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I know nothing really but could it be a bad ground somewhere? SAGES? Haha

I just want to know how this turns out and how to fix it myself. I hope you get that baby purring again. Sorry for your headache Macaque.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I've been at school for the past couple months so I haven't had a chance to work on the bike. When I left for school the bike was starting and idling fine, but when I gave it any throttle it would lag or die. I'm back for break so I want to get this bike running! I have an uncle who's a mechanic and motorcycle enthusiast so I described the problem to him and he said that dirty/clogged jets cause exactly what I described, so I need to clean the jets. The owner's manual for my bike has instructions for disassembling the carburetor completely, but I'm guessing that I don't need to completely disassemble the carbs to get to the jets. I bought some carb cleaner and right now I'm poking around the internet trying to figure out the best way to approach this.
 

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After looking at the carburetor diagram in the manual it seems like I can get to the jets by doing the exact same thing I did for the needle valve. All I need to do is remove the float bowl and take the jets out! I'll keep you guys posted.
 

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Will not start

I would be checking battery voltage all the time. Wade already told you about the volts. I am thinking the battery is on the way out. Charge it often but the volts keep dropping after it sits a while?? that is why I suggest checking the volts often. Might not be the problem, but you should check. The click you describe leads me to this.

Unkle Crusty*
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Alright so I got the jets out of the carbs and the needle jet for one of them is bent. I'm not surprised, because whoever worked on the bike before me did a terrible job; I had to deal with so many stripped screws/bolts, so whover did the previous carb work was definitely not careful.

I've looked for replacement needle jets on ebay and other sites and I can't find any. I've found a ton of upgraded jet kits, but they only seem to contain the main jets and other parts, but not needle jets. Do you guys think that I could order the needle jets from a dealer?
 
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