Motorcycle Forum banner
1 - 20 of 27 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
156 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Got some sun and the snow melted so got Bike out. Started up just fine, let him idle and warm up a bit and hit the road. Had a little trouble with leaving the stop at the end of my road, ever since the carbs got adjusted I've had a problem with stalling when pulling away from an uphill stop, which I never did before. After a few minutes, started running rough, hesitating as if running out of gas. Stopped at the station, only took a gallon to fill up so no, not that. Started back up but didn't sound right. Almost stalled again pulling out into the road, had to goose it to keep it running. Headed straight back home. Kept getting worse, acting like it couldn't get enough fuel, popping from the exhaust, other strange sounds I couldn't quite make out over the wind and road noise; changing the choke didn't seem to make a difference. Got to the last stop before my house and it stalled out. Trying to restart it, noticed that sometimes the lights were off, then back on again. Got it started for a moment, it made a terrible noise and quit. Had to get off and roll it the rest of the way home. Got it in the driveway, got back on and tried to start it. Lights were there, hit the starter switch and it just said "clank", the lights went off and that was that. It's totally dead. Rolled it back into the shop and shut the door. No idea what happened or what to do now, aside from borrowing a trailer and taking it back to the mechanic. But I've already got about $200 more into it than what it bluebooks for, so not sure if I want to keep spending on it. This is Not Good. :(
 

·
Administrator - American Legion Rider - KA5LRS
Joined
·
28,622 Posts
Without looking up what bike model you have, is it possible the valves need adjusted?
 

·
Visionary
Joined
·
6,215 Posts
With the issues with the lights going out I think you have an electrical problem.
Do you have a voltmeter? A real cheap one would do the job, might be worth buying one.
You need to check the voltage right at your battery , check it with the key off, with the key on and when trying to crank and report back these readings. If the battery is dead then you either have a bad battery or a problem with the charging system.
If the battery isn't dead but your still having electrical problems then it's a wiring issue, either a short or a loose connection, this could be as simple as a loose battery connection.

I wish you were nearby, I could probably diagnose this in 20 minutes hands on.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,749 Posts
Got some sun and the snow melted so got Bike out. Started up just fine, let him idle and warm up a bit and hit the road. Had a little trouble with leaving the stop at the end of my road, ever since the carbs got adjusted I've had a problem with stalling when pulling away from an uphill stop, which I never did before. After a few minutes, started running rough, hesitating as if running out of gas. Stopped at the station, only took a gallon to fill up so no, not that. Started back up but didn't sound right. Almost stalled again pulling out into the road, had to goose it to keep it running. Headed straight back home. Kept getting worse, acting like it couldn't get enough fuel, popping from the exhaust, other strange sounds I couldn't quite make out over the wind and road noise; changing the choke didn't seem to make a difference. Got to the last stop before my house and it stalled out. Trying to restart it, noticed that sometimes the lights were off, then back on again. Got it started for a moment, it made a terrible noise and quit. Had to get off and roll it the rest of the way home. Got it in the driveway, got back on and tried to start it. Lights were there, hit the starter switch and it just said "clank", the lights went off and that was that. It's totally dead. Rolled it back into the shop and shut the door. No idea what happened or what to do now, aside from borrowing a trailer and taking it back to the mechanic. But I've already got about $200 more into it than what it bluebooks for, so not sure if I want to keep spending on it. This is Not Good. :(
Check your regulator/rectifier. Once it dies your bike runs on the juice in the battery, once that's gone....you push it home.
 

·
Registered
2018 Yamaha SVTC
Joined
·
561 Posts
Got some sun and the snow melted so got Bike out. Started up just fine, let him idle and warm up a bit and hit the road. Had a little trouble with leaving the stop at the end of my road, ever since the carbs got adjusted I've had a problem with stalling when pulling away from an uphill stop, which I never did before. After a few minutes, started running rough, hesitating as if running out of gas. Stopped at the station, only took a gallon to fill up so no, not that. Started back up but didn't sound right. Almost stalled again pulling out into the road, had to goose it to keep it running. Headed straight back home. Kept getting worse, acting like it couldn't get enough fuel, popping from the exhaust, other strange sounds I couldn't quite make out over the wind and road noise; changing the choke didn't seem to make a difference. Got to the last stop before my house and it stalled out. Trying to restart it, noticed that sometimes the lights were off, then back on again. Got it started for a moment, it made a terrible noise and quit. Had to get off and roll it the rest of the way home. Got it in the driveway, got back on and tried to start it. Lights were there, hit the starter switch and it just said "clank", the lights went off and that was that. It's totally dead. Rolled it back into the shop and shut the door. No idea what happened or what to do now, aside from borrowing a trailer and taking it back to the mechanic. But I've already got about $200 more into it than what it bluebooks for, so not sure if I want to keep spending on it. This is Not Good. :(
Sounds like it’s time for a new bike! Look at this as opportunity not a problem. The universe has a way of letting you know when it’s time to move on and in this case move up! 😁
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,204 Posts
Time for a little troubleshooting, which includes tools - got the space and aptitude for that? The 'clank' has me thinking you should take the generator cover off the left side of the engine so you can try turning the engine over by hand.
 

·
Registered
Honda VFR1200X (sold), only mod was "The BoosterPlug".
Joined
·
602 Posts
Got some sun and the snow melted so got Bike out. Started up just fine, let him idle and warm up a bit and hit the road. Had a little trouble with leaving the stop at the end of my road, ever since the carbs got adjusted I've had a problem with stalling when pulling away from an uphill stop, which I never did before. After a few minutes, started running rough, hesitating as if running out of gas. Stopped at the station, only took a gallon to fill up so no, not that. Started back up but didn't sound right. Almost stalled again pulling out into the road, had to goose it to keep it running. Headed straight back home. Kept getting worse, acting like it couldn't get enough fuel, popping from the exhaust, other strange sounds I couldn't quite make out over the wind and road noise; changing the choke didn't seem to make a difference. Got to the last stop before my house and it stalled out. Trying to restart it, noticed that sometimes the lights were off, then back on again. Got it started for a moment, it made a terrible noise and quit. Had to get off and roll it the rest of the way home. Got it in the driveway, got back on and tried to start it. Lights were there, hit the starter switch and it just said "clank", the lights went off and that was that. It's totally dead. Rolled it back into the shop and shut the door. No idea what happened or what to do now, aside from borrowing a trailer and taking it back to the mechanic. But I've already got about $200 more into it than what it bluebooks for, so not sure if I want to keep spending on it. This is Not Good. :(
Been there. It always ends up as a money pit. If you're going to put money into something, a big-bore Harley or proven Japanese classic, is the best way to go. As your Suzuki, maybe consider selling it as a (no offense) rolling parts bike and cut your losses?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11,022 Posts
It would seem to me, there are a couple of things we need to know before making rash decisions about new bikes, scrapping bikes and other silly things.
What is the bike currently owned by the OP? A bit of time checking, inspecting does not cost much. The issue may be and likely is minor. Get the facts first. UK
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
156 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
It's a 2001 Suzuki VS800GL. Has 5,000 miles on it. New battery (reportedly) just before I bought it. Put new tires on it, had the carbs done (cleaned and new parts like gaskets, needles and so on, installed) a few weeks ago, and a battery tender installed. Ran alright all summer, aside from bogging down at slow speeds. Had one really good ride after getting the carb work done before the snow.
I only bought Bike in April after 30 years of not riding. Had hoped to get a couple of years out of him as I relearned the old skills and then move up to a slightly bigger bike. I do know I don't want a Harley, but beyond that I'm not sure what sort of bike to move up to; I want to comfortably cruise long distances but also want to be able to take back roads and go places like the long, poorly maintained drive into a local state park.
I can do very basic wrench stuff, have the shop building (though no heat) and lots and lots of tools. But my Husband was the brainy/talented half so aside from knowing how to jump start a vehicle I'm hopeless on electrical stuff. My brother is a lot more capable, so I've asked him to help me look it over and maybe test the battery. He's here watching the game with me, maybe if the Lions win he'll feel like getting off the sofa and taking a look.
I've been having moments of hope that it's just that the battery connections are loose after the tender was installed, and moments of despair that if I pull the side over off I'll just see carnage and metal shavings.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11,022 Posts
Someone said above, get a volt meter. Find the battery. Turn on the volt meter to a number that is higher than the battery volts. Usually 20. Put the red lead on the positive terminal. Put the black lead on the negative terminal. Pos has a + sign. Neg has a - sign. Should read about 12.7 volts. If the engine starts, check again at around 2500 revs. Should get about 14 volts. Please check and report back. Wintr above has asked about the clank noise. That is another subject. Might need brother to remove cover and look for bits. Prolly a good idea to do all this before the game. On that subject, I have my Larry Csonka shirt ready to wear for the Super Bowl.
BUT, on another note. Youtube has the full game, ladies rugby world cup final. About two weeks ago. Worth a look. UK
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,204 Posts
Any engine can throw a rod, and V-twins with a lot of torque (this is one) seem more likely. That said, many of the Intruder lines have gone more than 100k miles without incident, but there's always that one.
Let's hope there is no internal damage, and it is a connection between the battery and starter motor, ground included.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
609 Posts
Sounds like it might be a choke problem or something else carb related. Maybe reset the carbs and screw them back to factory specs and see what happens. It's probably more serious but you got to start somewhere.
 

·
Ace Tuner
Joined
·
4,805 Posts
Maybe the clank was caused by nothing more that a little kickback when the thing died. A V-Twin like your Suzy could make a clank if some kind of carburetor or electrical problem stopped it from running. Heck, those V-Twins can sometimes give a kickback if the bike doesn't happen to start on the first try.
I'm thinking it's unlikely you broke the motor. Could be but I'd look for a bad connection somewhere after I verify battery condition.
And yeah, get yourself a volt / ohm meter if you don't already have one.

The carburetors on that machine are not the simplest type to deal with for a person that doesn't do that kind of work full time. If the bike is running too rich your spark plugs may be fouled. After verifying a good battery, connections too, what the spark plugs look like could tell us something.
You should get a look at the spark plugs and let us know what you find there.



S F
 

·
Registered
Anything 50 cc up to 450 cc dirt , Streeters from 150 cc scooter up to Honda Shadow . In stock ..
Joined
·
836 Posts
Please , start at the battery and connections ..., Don't tear it apart just guessing or listening to some on here ... , Check and get back ..., Simple things first ,, battery , spark plugs , fuel system ...,
 

·
Registered
Anything 50 cc up to 450 cc dirt , Streeters from 150 cc scooter up to Honda Shadow . In stock ..
Joined
·
836 Posts
Got some sun and the snow melted so got Bike out. Started up just fine, let him idle and warm up a bit and hit the road. Had a little trouble with leaving the stop at the end of my road, ever since the carbs got adjusted I've had a problem with stalling when pulling away from an uphill stop, which I never did before. After a few minutes, started running rough, hesitating as if running out of gas. Stopped at the station, only took a gallon to fill up so no, not that. Started back up but didn't sound right. Almost stalled again pulling out into the road, had to goose it to keep it running. Headed straight back home. Kept getting worse, acting like it couldn't get enough fuel, popping from the exhaust, other strange sounds I couldn't quite make out over the wind and road noise; changing the choke didn't seem to make a difference. Got to the last stop before my house and it stalled out. Trying to restart it, noticed that sometimes the lights were off, then back on again. Got it started for a moment, it made a terrible noise and quit. Had to get off and roll it the rest of the way home. Got it in the driveway, got back on and tried to start it. Lights were there, hit the starter switch and it just said "clank", the lights went off and that was that. It's totally dead. Rolled it back into the shop and shut the door. No idea what happened or what to do now, aside from borrowing a trailer and taking it back to the mechanic. But I've already got about $200 more into it than what it bluebooks for, so not sure if I want to keep spending on it. This is Not Good. :(
Bad noise could just be the starter not engaging properly , or kickback on drive sprocket ...,
 

·
Ace Tuner
Joined
·
4,805 Posts
Some of those models (yours?) locate the battery under the machine in a metal box making it hard to deal with battery wiring. I don't think I've ever seen an older one that still had all of the battery box parts in place. LOTS of opportunities for bad connections and stuff.

S F
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
156 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Well the Lions lost but that isn't surprising. Brother had his meter and did a quick check of the battery through the end of the battery tender. First read 0.2 then went to 0 and stayed there, no change with key on or off, no lights. I plugged the tender in, and it did the amber flash that said battery wasn't properly connected for a bit, then flashed green then went back to amber. Unplugged it. Tomorrow I'll undo the connections and remove the battery from the bike and check fluid levels and put the charger on it and see what it says. Brother's best guess was perhaps a connection vibrated loose after the guy put the tender on and the battery shorted out to the frame or something, so I'm going to do my best to examine those conenctions as I take it apart.
I was very confused since the original symptoms seemed to me to be fuel related, but he explained that poor spark could also cause those symptoms.
So that's the update. Not going to mess with the carbs since I just had them professionally done; mechanic did tell me he put them back to spec. I'll start with the battery tomorrow (it is in the metal box under the bike but I think I can get it loose) and see where it goes from there.
Random note, I met Larry Csonka once when he visited our 5th grade class, many, many moons ago. He seemed so huge!
LOL, Mike, with your Iron Butt rides I'm thinking a run to the middle of Michigan would just be a morning jaunt for you!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,204 Posts
If it's battery connections are suspect, then get some start washers (inside or outside teeth). Many of these bikes came with terminal screws that are about 1 thread too long, and don't really tighten the cables to the blocks before hitting bottom. The washers take up that slack while improving contact and keeping the connections tight.
Don't know if you've run across this yet, but get a 2-by board to roll the rear wheel onto, and a similar, somewhat thinner one for the side stand. Gives a lot better access to the battery box bottom. Just be sure to remove the negative cable first.

Service manual: VS700_VS750_VS800_1986-2008.pdf
 
1 - 20 of 27 Posts
Top