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Certified Homeless Biker
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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

Sorry I've been off for a long time and just come back with a repair question. I'm not exactly social type (not even in real life). But let's cut the chitchat for people who are not interested. Here is the issue:

I had been hearing faint clanking noise from my bike (96 FZR600) for a long time, thought it was normal, but after the driving chain broke (don't ask), it got louder (hence I don't know if it's clanking or knocking), but goes away as soon as I pull the clutch lever. I looked at the clutch: the housing basket has a little play. Bought one on eBay with spacer and bearing, same issue. 2 things:
  • is that normal for housing basket to have a play? I thought gears are not supposed to move in directions other than circling, but then I can't see a way to tighten/fix it except for trying OEM which is not sold anywhere.
  • if that's normal, then where is the clanking noise/knocking sound coming from? I really hope it's not inside the engine.

I think I can put a video up if that would make it easier.

Thank you very much,
 

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Ace Tuner
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2,586 Posts
but goes away as soon as I pull the clutch lever.

is that normal for housing basket to have a play?
Pulling in the clutch lever and noise goes away is telling you it has to do with the primary drive gears and/or clutch.
There is a damper between the driven gear and clutch housing. Yours having 'play' would indicate worn dampers most likely. If an OEM housing is not sold anywhere then it must be a discontinued part. Maybe you can find a used housing that is still good? That is the one and only problem with the Japanese machines... DISCONTINUED!!!

S F
 
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Certified Homeless Biker
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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks. I'm reluctant to buy a used motor, because I have no idea if it has the same problem or not, also afraid to take the thing apart, to find out I can't find parts for it ... unless I get nothing to lose. Getting there though :)
 

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70 CB 18 Wolf 19 San Gabriel
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Taking it apart should cause no problem. You may have to find some bendable locks if yours get too damaged to be re-used. The locks are flat sheet metal 'washers' that extend past the diameter of some fasteners, and are made to bend up against the sides of the nut to prevent it from rotating. They need flattening when removing, and need to be bent against the nut when putting back together.
The only other 'consumable' would be the cover gaskets, and possibly O-rings depending upon design. Most times the O-rings are not damaged by dis-assembly, especially if they are used to seal removable cover plates.
tom
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I don't know man, after 100K miles, there may be things that would just drop out when I open it :)
But as stated, when I determine I have nothing to lose (open or not, I can't ride the bike with that noise), and have time, I will probably do it, then hit eBay or something to find parts.
 

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American Legion Rider
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I don't know man, after 100K miles, there may be things that would just drop out when I open it :)
But as stated, when I determine I have nothing to lose (open or not, I can't ride the bike with that noise), and have time, I will probably do it, then hit eBay or something to find parts.
Well lets just hope it isn't something that will lock the bike up when it completely fails. That could make for a bad day. :rolleyes: ;) ;)
 

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70 CB 18 Wolf 19 San Gabriel
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If I understand, you have been into the sidecase, looked at the clutch(release bearing, springs, pressure plate, and the 'basket'. You found the basket had a little play, and you could move it a bit, but you did not say if the play was between the basket and the gears that drive it, or the basket linear(in and out of the gearcase), or bearings the basket rides upon(radial play).
I make the assumption, with all knowledge of what that entails, that you run the engine in neutral, and you hear the clonks & rattles & whatevers UNTIL you pull the clutch lever. When you do that, all the msched gears in the transmission come to a halt. If the clonks go away, that indicates an internal problem. You may have damaged the output shaft bearing. Maybe take a look at the drive sprocket and see if you can wiggle that around radially or linearly. If you can, or can feel roughness in the bearing, time to split.. the case.
Spinning the sprocket by hand, keeping some contact, you may be able to feel the condition of the output shaft bearing. You at least should be able to rotate the sprocket a bit in either direction to feel if there is any slop. It may be the bearing was damaged when you had the abrupt stop of the output shaft when the chain got entangled. Odds are a bearing was damaged internally, my bet.
tom
 

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Discussion Starter #8
from picture here, #1 has a play, you know like how you shake the car tires to check the CV joints? yeah it was like that, noticeable too. #3, which is bolted onto the shaft I guess, does not shake. Maybe it has something to do with #2 , #24, and maybe #23? they are like washers. I don't see any visible damage on them though, unless it's normal wear/circular damage then I wouldn't know how to check. Hmmm there may be some specs about them in the book.

64177
 

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Ace Tuner
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from picture here, #1 has a play, you know like how you shake the car tires to check the CV joints?
You can see the springs (dampers) on the back side of the clutch housing (#1). You should not have very much play between the driven gear and housing. A housing in good condition will be all but free of movement until you apply a considerable amount of force to it. Even then movement will be minimal.
When searching for a used housing I would insist on a return policy if the used part is not serviceable.
A note of caution:
Be sure you do not lose ball #15 and replace lock washer #11 with new. The lock washer should still be available as they are used on various different models. Also, take care to get the chain (not pictured) for the oil pump drive installed correctly on installation.

S F
 

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Number 1 should not have play. It is geared to the crankshaft, and looks as if it also has a sprocket to power the oil pump via the chain. It will rotate as long as the engine is running. The part it grabs, when the clutch is engaged, is number 3, which sits inside #1. Number 3 is geared to the input shaft to the transmission via splines. With the clutch lever releases, #3 will be spinning, and turning the shaft that all the gears reside on. They will be linked to the output shaft, 100% of the time, fully meshed, but not locked to the shaft until the 'dogs' engage, so in neutral all the gears, in and out, will be spinning.
That means, sort of, the input shaft will be turning whenever the lever is released, engine running, and that's when you get noise. I think the clutch 'basket', #1, rides on a bearing, and that bearing is worn, allowing you to move the basket around. The inner portion, #3, spins along with the basket, and causes the shaft to rotate on the input shaft bearing. From what I can figure, you are going to have to replace either the basket bearing and race, #25 & #26, externally accessible, (I think)., or the input shaft bearing, not in the picture.
I think #25 is a roller bearing, but can't be sure, and #26 is the race that it rides on. Given that the noise abates when the lever is pulled, then it is more likely it is the input shaft bearing, as the basket is spinning whenever the engine is running. Don't know how it could be otherwise.
tom
 
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