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Discussion Starter #1
I just changed the oil on my 250 rebel, i know it says use 10w-40 non detergent oil, but i used sae30 instead. has anyone had a problem? am i gonna fry my clutch? leave it for a 1000 miles till next change or drain it out and go with 10w40? what do you think?
 

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I don't think you will fry the clutch.

Personally, I would change it out for the proper grade. The few bucks and few minutes of work to change it will be worth the piece of mind knowing it's been done right.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
i was kind of thinking the same, but hoping someone would say they used it before and not to worry. lol.

thanks
 

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There is a reason they recommend a multi-grade. Part of it is the nature of the oil viscosity at temperatures. Another is that straight grade oil seldom has the same additive packages in the blend. For the amount of oil and the cost, I'd dump it and put in some 10w-40. Personally I'd use motorcycle grade oil, just because there are additives in the oil that aren't legal for automobile oil and it is specifically blended to work with the clutch and gear box. But that's just my way of thinking.
 

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Typical automotive (especially those labeled "energy saving") are not appropriate at all for a motorcycle with a wet clutch (as in the vast majority of 'em).

Look for conforming to JASO type standards -- they will be more properly formulated for shared engine/gearbox duty and a wet clutch.
 

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I use, like a lot of other riders of the same model as mine, use Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 full synthetic and motorcycle approved. It had a great analysis from Blackstone labs, I think its called, after almost 3K miles of use. $20/gal at WalMart.
 

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I always shell out the extra bucks for Lucas oil motorcycle oil (full synthetic for newer bikes, semi synthetic for older bikes.) I think it's more than worth it for the peace of mind. Also make sure you're using a good filter - running the best oil with a crap filter kinda defeats the point. I'm partial to the K&N's myself, due to the nut on the back.
 

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Use what the manufacturer specifies. I do it because I figure I'm not smarter than the engineers who designed my bike-just sayin
 

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Can't understand why they call for a "10w-40 non detergent oil". Engine oils need detergent to keep the engine clean, especially the ring belt area and cyclinder bore. In fact, I wouldn't know where you'd find a non-detergent engine oil. I worked for 20+ years in an international oil company, the last 8 of those in their lubricants technical centre.

Use an oil which is marked on the bottle API S*/MA SAE 10W-40, where the star is the highest letter you can find - maybe SJ, SL or SM. This is designed to have the frictional characteristics that your transmission/clutch require and will give your engine the maximum protection against wear and deposits.
 

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SN is the current spec (effective october 2011). I'd go with the s* spec oil called for in the manual (but NOT old oil that's been sitting on the shelf for that many years), motorcycle oil, or the rotella T6. the newer specs use less and less zinc, phosphorus, and other stuff that help reduce damage in no/low oil situations (startup) but damage O2 sensors and catalysts when cars start burning oil.

using the wrong viscosity (30 wt) oil won't cause the clutch to slip, it'll cause the oil pressure to be way too high at first, then a hair low when warm. (the 30 means the base stock is thinner than a 40 but the 10 means it's a LOT thinner when cold: honey vs. molassis)

oil with the wrong additives will cause the clutch to slip.

out of curiosity and maybe to help convince you...why did you use straight 30 weight oil?
 

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Manufacturer specs are the best way to go. I once used the same 10w-40, same brand, but accidentally got semi- or full-synth (can't remember which), instead of conventional, and has some serious clutch slip issues.
 
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