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The oil migrates everywhere to hide the true location of the leak. Problem is, whenever you have a grommet going around a harness (part #6 sub harness B) 9 times out of 10 the leak starts at the grommet from it getting hard and shrinking. You cannot get them alone, they come on the harness. That harness not available.

Epoxy will work but like any other sealer on earth the entire grommet area MUST be absolutely BONE DRY inside and out of the grommet and give that some thought. The slightest spot not being dry sets up an instant leak path that later leaks. The grommet itself will have absorbed oil to ruin the seal there instantly. Mainly inside it. And you get no new 'crush' like a new grommet would provide, the loose grommet still can leak. Push grommet into slot and if the end goes even or slightly lower than gasket metal the problem, the grommet has shrunk. It should be sticking out above the metal flat to have to be squeezed in where the cover pushes it down and tight to tighten up inside the grommet hole for wire and tight on the wire too.

I have had some success with wrapping a piece of inner tube strip rubber around an old grommet to overlap a little to make sure the entire periphery around old grommet at the pinch point where case bites it is crushed to have new tightness like a new grommet,

I realize easier said than done and the location there not helpful. I don't have high hopes for getting all that as clean as is needed to not leak but it is what it is. But if you rubber it with inner tube it doesn't even have to be bone dry at that point as the rubber will squeeze all voids out to not leak anyway. What a fresh rubber grommet does at new install.

The problem calls for exact work fitting the rubber strip and trimming it correctly. BTDT, it worked for years, not a drop leaked. And more than once.
 

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Yes, if the guy doing it is good. May have to be disassembled to get to it though.

We used to heliarc damage back up on race heads costing thousands, you just didn't toss those if possible.
 

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I'm seeing what looks like a drain plug in a steel pan that looks like it has hit the ground, and a cast part that does not look like it should be glued to that because it appears to be a completely different material.
... is everything there magnetic or non magnetic?
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Everything is non magnetic. I clean it off and do not see any signs of crack. I had to put a used hardness and rubber on it from ebay due to none being available. Maybe it could be still leaking from that? See other pictures of it clean off. Thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Oh wow, you are correct. I did not even realize that was a plug. That could be the issue. I plan to finish cleaning it tomorrow to tell more about it. Thank you guys!
 

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Ace Tuner
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Oh wow, you are correct. I did not even realize that was a plug. That could be the issue. I plan to finish cleaning it tomorrow to tell more about it. Thank you guys!
Yeah, that is an access plug for indexing the "teeth" of some of the internal shift mechanism parts. It has an O-ring and is a push fit. Something external keeps it in place but I can not remember much else about it. Been a long time ago that I last had one apart. It's a strange set up.
See parts #11 and #12. You can see what I called "teeth" on #12.
When the bike falls on it's left side it can damage #11 in the diagram. That is why I had one apart one time a long time ago.
Wish I could remember more but, long time ago and I've slept since then...

S F
 

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Yes, I meant to remove the word 'crossthreaded' once I looked at blowup and saw plug and wondering how it retained in place. The two tabs hanging out act as the twist points for a twist in to lock against the o-ring rubber? Weird setup.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
That all makes sense. It is a weird setup. I will be taking a look at it in a few. You guys helped a lot. Thank you
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Good news is that the plug is where it leaking from. Looks like a small part of the seal was damaged. I was able to push it on more but still leaking so I will need to remove the side of the engine cover to take that plug off. I really don't want to remove the engine cover again until I can find a new wire hardness with the rubber on it. Does not seem to be available any where. I wonder if I could 3d print one that will work.
 

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Good news is that the plug is where it leaking from. Looks like a small part of the seal was damaged. I was able to push it on more but still leaking so I will need to remove the side of the engine cover to take that plug off. I really don't want to remove the engine cover again until I can find a new wire hardness with the rubber on it. Does not seem to be available any where. I wonder if I could 3d print one that will work.
Has that harness rubber shrunk and thus leaking ?
If that's the case , try wrapping a 1/4" wide rubber band section around the grommet and re-install .
 

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As I said in post #21. Done correctly and with patience it will work. You aren't going to 3D print rubber, a rubber that is liquid when hot. A part like that wouldn't last minutes there.
 
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