[Sigma.40]

I was just looking around and saw that Advanced Auto now has lithium batteries for my ZX9R. What's the benefit over the agm ones? Is it worth the extra $75?

 

[DianneB]

Do a little research on lithium batteries and read the hazards. I wouldn't have one if it was given to me!

 

[cmonSTART]

Ya, aren't those the ones which burst into flames if damaged?

 

[NordicMan]

I have one in my '09 Raider, it came with one already installed by the previous owner..

I like it because there is no electrolyte sloshing around, and the battery is a LOT smaller than stock yet cranks the bike over just fine.

Whenever it finally dies of natural causes I'll probably replace it with another lithium.

 

[junkbonds]

I have one. Very, very light, charge lasts a long, long time over the winter.

And no, they are not the batteries that burn. They are lithium iron and not lithium ion.

 

[cmonSTART]

I have one. Very, very light, charge lasts a long, long time over the winter.

And no, they are not the batteries that burn. They are lithium iron and not lithium ion.

Wow, great info - thanks!

 

[Sigma.40]

Do they give any any more starting power than the AGM equivalent?

 

[SgtSlag]

Motorcycle Consumer News' current issue discusses Li Batteries. The basic message was that they are not suitable for everyday use in a motorcycle. An AGM can be had for less than 1/2 the price of most Li Batteries. I'd recommend an AGM (electrolyte is gel, and absorbed by the mats, so no sloshing of any kind either).

I would also suggest you do some research on Li Batteries, in general, to see if you really want one of them for your bike, due to their particular 'features': anything less than 13.6 Volts from the alternator, and the Li Battery is discharging; if left in temps. below 50 F overnight, it may not even turn over the engine until you leave the headlight on for a minute, which will warm the battery internally; and other 'features'... Li batteries are billed as 'starter' batteries, by racers: they generally put out 13.6 Volts, rather than 12.6-12.8 (fully charged flooded to AGM). Their higher voltage will spin the starter faster, if there is enough amperage (battery has been kept above 50 F). Where they fall down, is that they require higher voltage to charge (=>13.6 Volts), so they are more challenging to keep charged up in the bike: fine whlle the RPM's are high enough to pump 13.6 Volts, or higher, out of the alternator, bad/discharging when the bike is idling, and the alternator drops below 13.6 Volts. their lighter weight is really only an advantage if you are a racer -- a couple of pounds is not really going to make/break your riding, is it? Cheers!

 

[soupy1957]

Do they give any any more starting power than the AGM equivalent?

That's basically the thing "I" was wondering too........what's the big gain here, besides the higher price? For those of us who religiously use battery tenders, it doesn't seem like a big advantage.

Not only THAT, but if they are indeed a smaller size, it presents another dynamic of making sure it is secured properly, in a battery cavity that is designed for a larger battery.

-Soupy

 

[Sigma.40]

Alright, so here's another question. Can a battery (AGM) test good and still be bad? My bike wouldn't start so I had the battery charged and tested and it tested "good battery". I put it in the bike and it fired up. I rode it around for 15 miles and parked it. The next day I tested the battery with a volt meter and it tested 12.8 volts and dropped to 10.5 when cranking the engine. Still wouldn't start and the battery sounded like it was dying. Yesterday, I tested it and it was 12.5 volts at rest, 11.5 when I turned the key on and 9 volts when cranking. These are all good numbers, right?

-The reason I'm questioning this battery is because I went through the same damn thing last year. Battery tested ok, but still wouldn't start. Replaced it anyway and it fired up. I guess I'm just nervous to spend $90 just to find out that the current battery really IS good and isn't the problem.

 

[hogcowboy]

No. Those are not good numbers. That puppy is shot. Most likely a dead cell bringing the whole thing down. Should be over 13v fully charged.

 

[SgtSlag]

Sigma.40, I would check your charging system: it should read Above 13.6 Volts @ 2,000+ RPM, across the battery terminals (use a digital voltmeter). I would also recommend a voltmeter/battery monitor on your bike, permanently. It is the best way to monitor your charging system and battery, ongoing, so your bike won't leave you sitting.

My understanding is that flooded batteries should read 12.6 Volts, two hours after being disconnected from a charger (called "resting voltage), and an AGM should read 12.8 Volts, resting, if they are good. They should also register at least 11 Volts, when cranking, if good.

If your charging system is working, are you idling your bike for more than five minutes, on a semi-regular basis? Idling means the alternator is not pumping enough voltage to charge the battery -- it is discharging while the engine is running. This can kill a good battery by letting it run down too often. Also check your electrical load: are you running too many Watts for your alternator to charge your battery? Did you follow the maker's instructions, to the letter, to initialize your new batteries? If not, their life will be shortened -- it varies by maker, and model. Several possible reasons your AGM's are not lasting. Cheers!

 

[Sigma.40]

I believe my charging system is working. So that sounds like I should replace it since it drops to 9-10.5 volts when cranking.

I'm hoping not to dump a ton of money into it right now as Im thinking that at the end of this riding season, I'm going to either rebuild the bike or sell it.

I'm not sure if I follow the makers instructions, actually. I buy pre-filled, pre-charged batteries and didn't think about it. As for idling, I let it idle for 3-4 minutes when fully cold. Just enough to be able to close the choke.

 

[Unkle Krusty]

Lithium

I have just read an article about three sail boats that have them. March issue of Cruising World. I will not use one. Thermal runaway got my attention, plus the complex monitoring systems. However a gell battery might be a good idea.

Unkle Crusty*

 

[SgtSlag]

Sigma.40, you stated that you have gone through two AGM batteries in the past two years? That is not normal. An AGM battery should last 6+ years, easily, if well maintained, and never deep discharged (allowed to drop below 11 Volts -- this causes permanent, unrecoverable damage, to the battery's internal plates, and it shortens its life considerably).

I suggest a battery/charging system monitor. It seems as though you are having some sort of charging issue, over time, which is killing your AGM batteries prematurely. The only way to really know, is to connect a monitor. Here is a list of links to units which range from inexpensive, to expensive:

;

Electrical Connection LED Motorcycle Battery Voltage Monitor;

Waterproof 12V Blue LED Digital Car/Auto Voltmeter Motorcycle Battery Monitor;

Clearwater Voltage Sentry Review;

LED Battery Gauge;

SHORAI and STANDARD battery LED monitors;

and the Argus Battery Bug Monitor -- may not be available anymore, but a good unit if you can find one.

You could also use an automotive Voltmeter, but they can be large, and difficult to find a place for, on your bike. I've used both automotive Voltmeters, and an Argus Battery Bug. They both work well, but you have to know what readings are good/bad. The LED models are easier to use, once you learn their particular codes and colors. Cheers!

 

[Sigma.40]

I will look into the battery monitor, for sure. I'm also wondering if it's the batteries. I keep buying Autocraft batteries and they keep lasting only 1-2 years. It's not just the ZX9R either. I bought 2 for a truck that I used to own and they didn't last that long either. I also read quite a bit about people's Autocraft motorcycle batteries only lasting them a year or 2. I'm going to shop around town and see what else is out there.

 

[wadenelson]

Just don't.

 

[hogcowboy]

Try to find a Yuasa. One of the best for motorcycle in your size and kind of bike. Something like this..
http://www.amazon.com/s?ie=UTF8&page=1&rh=i:aps,k:yuasa battery

 

[Sigma.40]

Just don't.

Lol. Just don't buy one? I don't plan on it. I kinda bought all of those in the same time frame. Didn't have problems with them til later on.

 

[Sigma.40]

Try to find a Yuasa. One of the best for motorcycle in your size and kind of bike. Something like this..
http://www.amazon.com/s?ie=UTF8&page=1&rh=i:aps,k:yuasa battery

I've heard they are great. I'm just nervous to spend all that money just to find out it's something else.

However, if my charging system is going, I'm fairly screwed as none of it is available anywhere, not EBay, not Craigslist, not any online motorcycle supplier. Hence, getting it going for this year and then selling it later on.