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If I need to lower amps, and the LEDS require a 50 watt resistor, They will not work to lower the amps, You tube vid showed a techy using a "double dumass on you" diode pack with two diodes, one in each direction, to lower the milli-amps that the lights use....just like using lower watt bulbs...

My prob? bikes don't use milli-amps much....

you can't even use an amp meter to test the alternator on them, they run with a regulated current on volts.

Now with that said, I think the regulator that is used on stock machines is designed after they make the bike, specially for the amount of draw, charging and flow, that it uses.

is assuming this, out of the ordinary, strange and only proof of my idiocy?
 

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Power system design is actually fairly easy, without having the rest of the system working so you can determine how. So, no, the power generation system is not an afterthought, but part of the design from the beginning. The design of the stator and regulator is directly based on the expected power use of the bike; only recently have the makers considered leaving a little extra power for accessories that riders are apt to add, like light bars and radios. My '70 CB450 makes just enough power to keep the battery up, as long as you don't let it idle too long; my '05 S50 has just about 100W to spare, and accessory terminals for hookup. Replacing many of the filament bulbs with LEDs saves a bit, and require no resistors, so you can add that accessory, or not worry about the battery. Only the flashers need enough load to work properly, and need additional load resistors to increase the current to work properly with the stock flasher relay. Even that can be avoided with an electronic, LED-rated flasher. I don't bother with LEDs in the turn signals, since they aren't on much, and the low filaments in the front signals on my S50 don't draw enough to bother.
 
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