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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I had the engine sorted out all good now till I have found the indicators has stopped working. It does not flash, but all the indicators is on still when is on left and right, have replaced a new relay it does not make any the difference, removed all the indicators bulbs checked the base connect all are fine!

What is the issue??

I am out of ideas!
 

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Question?

are "all" the signals on at the same time? thats what I gather rfom your post.. if all of them light up all at once, then they have a wiring issue. if they come normally, but just dont flash, then you have a bad "flasher" unit.


Aslo anytime you ask for help, ALWAYS give the bike info.... it really matters.(y)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Question?

are "all" the signals on at the same time? thats what I gather rfom your post.. if all of them light up all at once, then they have a wiring issue. if they come normally, but just dont flash, then you have a bad "flasher" unit.


Aslo anytime you ask for help, ALWAYS give the bike info.... it really matters.(y)
Forgot include model, it is Suzuki CS50 1987 50cc scooter, when I switch the left, front and rear are on but is still not flash, same on the right. I look the loom all the way to switch button I can't see any bad connect, rust or cut wires.
 

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Forgot include model, it is Suzuki CS50 1987 50cc scooter, when I switch the left, front and rear are on but is still not flash, same on the right. I look the loom all the way to switch button I can't see any bad connect, rust or cut wires.

you have a bad flasher unit. the age of yours, it will likely be a small square black box with either 2 or three prong. if you cant find its location use a service manual to locate it.
 

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As mentioned above by EC the fact that the bulbs light up tells you there good the fact they light up also tells you the wiring is good = flasher
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The new relay doesn't make any difference, I have taken the whole wiring loom off! No sign of damage or cut. But I have found the battery is 5.6 volts out of 12v battery, which I have never used the starter motor always used the kicker start. Do the indicator runs on battery or own electric from the engine?
 

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Your battery is junk . The blinkers will not work unless the motor is turning sufficient RPMs to produce enough electricity to drive the flasher . An electronic flasher requires less juice to function .
Anyway , replace the battery and keep it charged in order for your blinkers to work at low or no motor RPMs .
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I have the Powerline battery, it must be junk to last me in 9 months. Which is better, the Yuasa or the Motobtt?
 

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But I have found the battery is 5.6 volts out of 12v battery, which I have never used the starter motor always used the kicker start. Do the indicator runs on battery or own electric from the engine?
:unsure::ROFLMAO:
It would have been nice to know this before...... Yes, your OEM electronics need a minimum of 10v to operate.
Any less and they will not function.
 

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I have the Powerline battery, it must be junk to last me in 9 months. Which is better, the Yuasa or the Motobtt?
I don't use wet cell batteries in my bikes . I use AGM batteries . They last 3 times longer than wet cells and never need maintenance .
You know the voltage . Measure the stock battery and find an AGM or at least an SLA ( Sealed Lead Acid ) battery that fits . The connections will likely be different , so be prepared to make adjustments .
 

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I had the engine sorted out all good now till I have found the indicators has stopped working. It does not flash, but all the indicators is on still when is on left and right, have replaced a new relay it does not make any the difference, removed all the indicators bulbs checked the base connect all are fine!
You mentioned all the indicators. Did you happen to put in LED replacements?

Did you check your battery voltage? A charger should top it back up...though 9 months without maintenance on a wet battery is a bit long. (They can be recovered though.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
You mentioned all the indicators. Did you happen to put in LED replacements?

Did you check your battery voltage? A charger should top it back up...though 9 months without maintenance on a wet battery is a bit long. (They can be recovered though.)
No, I did not fit LED, I hate them! I did charger up after 48 hours the battery drops one volt, there is faulty or rubbish with the battery.
 

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first off, you fail to include "all" information, and that makes it hard for anyone to give you good responses.

first you only mention that they come on with no flashing, this would usually point to a flasher, but then in a later post you add the battery tested at 5.6v. this is deffinatly a failing or under charged battery. any 12v electronics will need a minimum of 10v to operate. such as an OEM flasher.

So either put a good charge into your current battery, or replace it. Then you should be good to go, unless there is more info your not sharing...


I also recomend upgrading your flasher to a "no load" unit

 

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That no load unit looks to be the same as an electronic relay . ;)

Similar, bit it does not require as much resistance, it will actually flash the lights as low as 4vdc. the electronic needs atleast 8 to 10vdc to flash.
I have tested it and have used the 2 prong wired into "just" the ground side (no posative) only, and it still flashed.

I run the power from the switch to the signals, and the ground is shared by both the left and the right.
The switch (which ever way you flip it to) determines the power to either side signals. and having a shared ground with the flasher wired inline, flashes them as normal.

if anyone wants a diagram for this I will gladly supply one.
 

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Hmm , shouldn't the ground be coming off one side of the flasher , instead of prior ?
This diagram is for the "no load" flasher

Most factory bikes come with incadesent bulbs, and certain newer bikes have factory led. these two lighting systems use a different flasher winding inside the flasher. A standard flasher will make the led lights have a rapid flash, where as the led flasher wont let the incadesents flash at all.

This one I recomend will work with any type of bulb, such as led,incadesednt, or even hid, with any combination of the type and or amount of bulbs. It is not dependent on any speciffic resistance (OHM) or voltage loads or inline resistors to function.

A signal flasher works off of the "overload" principal,
meaning the switch is flipped (your signal selector switch)
and enables the power to complete the circuit. Once the resistance in the flasher builds up to a point it can no longer handle the power load, it trips an automatic breaker that can reset its self, and this cycle repeats giving any light in the circuit a flash as the breaker kicks in and out.
Its an electromagnetic switch, with a return spring, and an "over volt" is its activator.

Think of your house circuit breaker panel.. when its overloaded, it trips a breaker, and you have to go and flip it back on.
Your flasher works on this same principal but with a ;ot less power needed. flasher has an internal spring that resets it automatically after it breaks from contact.
In most cases an overloaded circuit is bad... but in this case it is used to our benefit.

As the diagram I supplied implies you use it on the negative circuit. Or the posative which ever one prefers. I use the negative side, as ther is no power flowing thru it to shorten the life of the internal componets an aids in extending the life of the flasher.

A lot of bikes have componets such as auto signal cancel and have a 3 prong flasher unit, this will still work if you buy the 3 prong no load flasher for factory systems

when LED lights first becam a popular upgrade, theses leds did not draw enough power for oem flasher units with less resistance in the circuit, so they were sold a resistor to wire into the signal circuit... this gave the "fake" aspects that a incadesent bulb did to the circuit, and then they would flash normal again.

The problem with this method was you had a resistor molded into an aluminum heat sink and it produced an extreme amount of heat. this was a liability to anyone who did not know how or where to install them. it could melt wire casings, plastic body panels etc..
think of the resistor in this case as a "dummy bulb" that did not light up.

I have known this info for years, and have always used the no load relays to not only fix flash issues, but to keep from having excess heat generating componets in the circuit. As seen below these are needed to attach to a metal mounting point to prevent any heat generated from melting stuff. They can get hot enought to give your finger a blister in seconds.

Dont buy or use these gimmic things they are a waste of time money, and add junk to your bike.


By you not providing the most crucial bit of info for us, there was a lot of wasted time and posting telling you it was the flasher. when you had a low voltage problem. if you are able to swap your flasher out for the one I recomend, it still would have flashed, albiet a slow flash, but would still do it. The wiring diagram provided, is what I use when making new harneses, or even upgrading existing systems.

Let us know how your battery issue went.
 
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