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Discussion Starter #1
I just change the 4 spark plugs on my 97 zx6e and now the bike lost quite a bit of power and does not run as it did

I put the correct plugs in no doubt about that at all but I did not check the gap prior to installation as I was told they are pre gapped,,, after many phone calls and different answersfrom different dealers one told me .7-.8 one told me .6-.7

I pulled the old ones out of the garbage and checked their gap an all 4 of them were .3

I'm not sure what to do here anybody have any ideas ? I'm thinking about gapping the new plugs down to .3 and see what happens any suggestions are welcome thank you

I do not have a service manual
 

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Discussion Starter #3
thanks

just to hear one other person agree with me makes me feel better and I really thank you for that it'll be interesting to see when I pull the plug out tomorrow what its gapped at...I.e outta the box.

JoneZee
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I just looked at the link you posted and that's a different plug than what I installed and what I pulled out. I installed and removed ,,ngk cr9e ,, thanks
 

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I've gotten bad plugs from Advance Auto before. Really made me mad as a hatter. Trying to get the last plug out on a straight six is murder and to have to do it twice, is just asking for a meltdown. Changed the plugs, and the misfire was gone. Really made me mad. Went with NGK the second time. Little bit more money, but better quality than the other brand. Stay away from Champion too, they've had issues.
 

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I always use anti-seize compound on the threads of most everything...plugs can be in there for years and still come out easy with no thread damage...works great on ball joints and tie rods too as those can be the devil to remove...

Pick some up; well worth the money. Whenever you use anti-seize compound, torque to specs, then recheck periodically to ensure proper torque.
 

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Lubricating the threads with anti-seize compound reduces the amount of torque that should be applied; makers of the stuff won't predict by how much, because there are too many variables, but most say 'at least 10%'. The reason is that lubricating the threads decreases the amount of force that must be applied to reach the same clamping force, or strain.
 

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Correct winter.

I torque to just below specs, then recheck after some miles, and repeat again after more miles...100 or so...and torque to specs.

After a couple hundred miles, the oil in the compound goes away and leaves behind that fine gray metal stuff...probably zinc...so you can torque to spec and be just fine.

Being off a little on torque is a lot better than stripping threads or struggling for days to get a ball joint out..or whatever...
 

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Yes, but the powder does still provide some lubrication (that's how it works, after all), and in aluminum, you really have to be cautious with too much torque.
 

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Too much torque is bad news; but not as bad as a fused spark plug...

The last time I came across a fused plug...I had to bore out the hole, thread it, and screw in a sleeve..what a job that was..

Used anti-seize for 35 plus years...never seen a serious negative come from it...

Do you use it?

I replaced a factory tie-rod and ball joint...son of a gun to get off...80k later had to replace the replacements...that were installed with anti-seize...nut came right off and it took minimal effort to remove the parts...I swear by the stuff...
 

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Discussion Starter #12
SOOO I pull the plugs AGAIN to check the gap- and dam it- it is on the money- I bumped em up a hair- just to b on the money with mfg specs- took the big out and - the same thing- good low end power- but wont go over 70mph-

hate HATE to take it to a shop - I could put the old ones back in in- but its a bit to get at them AGAIN-
only other thing I can think of is FUEL FILTER got clogged jerking the tank around when taking it off to get at the plugs,,,,,,

DAM IT - I wanna ride
 

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Put the old plugs back in; but I bet that's not the problem.

The faster you go, the more fuel you need...if you have a vacuum leak, the faster you go, the LESS fuel you get...

Put the old plugs back, same problem, search for that vacuum leak.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
that is very interesting thank you but i might as well leave the new plugs in if that is my issue and I have no idea even where to start as far as searching for a vacuum leak .thanks though
 

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Did you change anything besides the spark plugs? Have you checked to see if the spark plug wires are not arcing around the plugs? It could be one or more caps are not mating the conductor in the wires, and the wires need a trim where they enter the caps. Try spraying the caps while the engine is idling; if it starts to miss, you have cap/wire problems.
 

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I replaced a factory tie-rod and ball joint...son of a gun to get off...80k later had to replace the replacements...that were installed with anti-seize...nut came right off and it took minimal effort to remove the parts...I swear by the stuff...
Just on the castle nut threads??? Or on the press fit part of the tie rod end too?

Has anyone shown you the "shock" method of removing tie rod ends, etc?

Never fails no matter HOW old or rusty the tie rod end is.... it's truly SHOCKING!

You can go to Youtube and watch dozens of amateurs attempting to remove tie rod ends using pickle forks, beating on the castle nut, using air hammers, ....

After a more senior tech showed me the shock technique I felt like a complete idiot ...but a happy idiot, now that I knew.... ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I put a K&N air filter in as the other one was plugged solid and I mean solid...
and I double double check the wires they appeared to be ok ..couple cracks in the rubber head caps. But that is it. this work was done with surgical precision which is why it's killing me..... thanks the other guy said vacuum leak but I'm not sure
 

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A plug with a too-small gap will fire SOONER than one with a larger gap. So changing the gap changes the ignition timing.

So if someone installs mis-gapped plugs, and then ADJUSTS (retards) the ignition timing to compensate...

You go and put correctly gapped plugs in and the timing is now off. Retarded. Result: Loss of power.

If this is what you think is occurring, install mfr recommended plugs, at mfr recommended gap, and then adjust timing.

And use the correct kind of spark plug gapper if you want accurate settings. The type with round wires, not the round disk angle ramp variety. It's a go/nogo tool, do not FORCE the wires through the gap.

GOOD GAPPER:



BAD GAPPER:


GREAT GAPPER:

 

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Running with a completely plugged air filter is like running with the choke on. It indeed causes more gas to get sucked out of the fuel bowl.

So replacing the air filter may have EXPOSED a problem--- your engine running lean. Or once again, someone may have leaned it out to COMPENSATE for the plugged air filter, and now...

Or, or, or....the plugged air filter was COMPENSATING for the vacuum leak, causing the lean condition....which is now exposed...

You know how to find vacuum leaks by spraying carb cleaner all around and seeing if the rpm's increase when it starts getting inhaled at the point of the vacuum leak??? Try not to blow yourself up...suggest you keep a far stankwasher nearby... ;) And keep your face away, or wear a faceshield for when it goes WHOOSH!

I'm gonna suggest a full tune-up on this bike, either by a professional tech, or someone pretty darned skilled leading YOU through it..... you're having to do clean-up of someone else's bad work...

My bet is you're gonna be AMAZED at how much better it runs afterwards
 
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